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Draping terminology
- 2. Draping is an important part of fashion design. It is the process of positioning and pinning fabric onto a dress or tailors dummy, to develop the more fluid structure. It is used particularly in haute couture.
- 3. Why is Draping Useful? Draping is used to achieve the desired pattern through the first-hand manipulation of fabric, providing the opportunity to sculpt and create one-of- a-kind designs, which is why draping is a technique used primarily when making couture and high-end pieces. It is very important skill for fashion designers.
- 4. its common for designers to create garments based solely on flat pattern-making techniques, draping brings the process into the third dimension, allowing even more creative freedom. Also, some fabrics just plain need to be experimented with on a dress form in order to know for sure how they behave. Its possible to begin the process with a design sketch and drape according to that image, but you can also start designing right then and there with the dress form, letting the ideas flow.
- 5. Draping can be approached in 2 ways mainly 1. Planned way of draping based on reference image / sketch 2. Spontaneous draping - driven by the weight and fall of the fabric
- 6. Definition Draping is a technique used to make a 3-dimensional dress pattern, with the aid of a dress form figure by pinning and placing fabric against the form to create a garment.
- 7. Terminology
- 8. Apex Highest point of a bust on a dress form or live model. Reference point for establishing the cross-grain position on the front bodice Balance The matching of grains and adjacent pattern sections
- 9. Bias A line diagonally across the grain of the fabric that offers the considerable amount of stretch ability. True bias means at a 45degree angle.
- 10. Blend A technique that helps to form a smooth, continuous line. smoothly shapes variation of arks or dots made on the muslin fabric drape.
- 11. Smoothing angular lines or transition lines on a pattern to ensure smooth curves for sewing. In the example below: When creating a Princess Line design line, the sharp dart points need to be changed to smooth curves.
- 12. The Princess Line (armhole) seam drawn in red on the Bodice Back block.
- 13. The red dotted lines show the blending that is required to remove the points and create smooth curves for joining the seams. Note: The side piece has the red dotted line extending past the original waistline. This is because the seams lengths need to match. You should "walk the seams" after the blending is done, to check the length. A small amount needs to be added to the side pattern piece so that the seam lengths are equal.
- 14. Balance Balance refers to the "hang" of the garment. If a garment is balanced, it will hang straight, rather than twisting or having folds. When creating patterns, one need to do the following, to make sure your pattern will be balanced: correctly mark the pattern grain on the pattern pieces use notches as balance points to assist in the construction process, and ensure that adjoining pattern pieces match (in length and shape)
- 15. Blocking A technique to shape fabric by puling and dealing it on grain while pressing it with steam ironing process. A bock is a master pattern. It is also known as sloper.
- 16. Blocks generally have no design features other than what is required for fitting. A Block is usually made from a thin cardboard, not paper, so that the patternmaker can trace around it to create patterns. The Basic Block or Sloper Set consists of seven pieces: Bodice Front, Bodice Back, Sleeve, Skirt Front, Skirt Back, Pants Front and Pants Back.
- 17. Empire Line A dress style where the bodice ends, and the skirt begins just under the bust.
- 18. Princess line A dress or top with a seamline that runs from the armhole to the hem, or the shoulder and the hem, where the bust and waist darts are incorporated into this seam.
- 19. Truing Checking that adjoining pattern pieces match and any curve that continues from one piece to the next needs to be a smooth curve. When making Blocks or Patterns, the adjoining pieces need to be checked against each other; lines that are sewn together need to be the same length, such as side seams and the shoulder line. Curves that cross over pattern pieces, such as the armhole or the neckline, need to flow smoothly rather than be angular.
- 20. Examples Bodice Block: Truing the Side Seam and the Armhole When making a personalized Bodice Block, you need to check that the side seams are the same length on the front and back. Line the side seams up from the armhole. Make a mark on the Bodice Back Block where it lines up to the Front Bodice Block side seam dart.
- 21. Armhole Truing
- 22. Mannequin marking terms: 1.SH-shoulder line 2.NB-neck band 3.Armhole/Armscye 4.PL-princess line 5.Apex/BP-bust point 6.BL-bust line 7.CF-center front 8.SS-side seam 9.WL-waistline 10.HBL-Horizontal balance line HBL
- 24. Body forms Body forms are very useful for draping and patternmaking. A criterion identical of a human upper and lower torso, set on a movable, height- adjustable stand. -To measure and setup the sloper or master pattern. -To establish an original pattern. -To form a garment from fabric. -To fit sample garments as per dress form sizes. -To alter the garments. -To establish hemline on garments. Model form (dress form)is available in a range of standard sizes, heightand figure types; according to measurements of a particular size and type of figure.
- 26. Muslin: An inexpensive fabric, on which the grain and cross grain are quite visible. Used to drape garments made of woven goods.
- 27. Pin Cushion or Pin Dispenser: A sewing tool that keeps pins organized in a convenient place. Scissors and Shears: Shears are usually four-to eight inches long and made of steel Bent-handled shears are excellent for easy and straight cutting. Straight Pins: dressmaker pins with sharp tapering points that will not rust are used to anchor muslin or fabric to the dress form while draping.
- 28. Style Tape A narrow, woven tape that is used to define style lines on the dress form.
- 29. Tailors Chalk: A small piece of chalk, approximately 1 /2 square, with two tapered edges. It is used to mark lines temporarily on garment hems and other alteration points. Tape Measure: A flexible, narrow, firmly woven, 60-inch reversible tape marked with measurements indicating both inches and metric terms used to take dress form, muslin, and body measurements. Tracing Wheel: A sharp, spike edged circular wheel with a handle that is used to transfer markings from the drape to the pattern paper. Yardstick: A wooden or metal ruler one yard in length (36 inches) that is marked in inches or metric terms, An aid for laying pattern pieces on the straight grain of the fabric or for measuring hemlines.
- 30. Pencils and Markers pencils used in developing muslin patterns. Used to mark the points
- 31. Flexible Ruler A flexible ruler makes it easy to measure curves like armholes and necklines.
- 32. French Curve A French curve is used to draw curves at the armhole, neckline, curved darts, sleeve cap curves, and hipline curve, etc. They are transparent and some come with a straight edge including a Seam Allowance Guide and Grading Rules. French curves come in a variety of sizes and shapes.
- 33. Muslin Preparation The first round of fashion draping is usually done with muslin, an inexpensive, loosely-woven cotton fabric that comes in several different weight varieties. This allows you to figure out any design or fitting issues that you might have before you start to cut the fabric you intend to use. If you already have a final fabric in mind, do some research before you begin draping to find a specific weight of muslin that will fall and fold just like the fabric that you will use in the finished garment.
- 34. Steps to follow
- 35. Slashing The clipping of muslin or fabric towards the pinned perimeter of the area being draped to relieve fabric tension and facilitate subsequent draping procedure. Marking The recording, while on the model form, of the perimeter, intersecting lines, and pattern details in preparation for trueing.
- 39. Thanks For Today We will meet tomorrow