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MAHESHWARI SAREES:A
STORY OF ROYALTY TOLD IN WARPS AND WEFTS
Presentation by :
Prof. Pravin D. Pavhare
(Fashion Ddesign)

• Maheshwari Saree is a cotton and pure silk fabric woven with zari or brocade in
varied designs.
• These designs include stripes, checks and floral borders.
• Originating from the town of Maheshwar, Madhya Pradesh,
• Maheshwari fabric is mainly used in designing Maheshwari Sarees, Dupattas and
dress material for Salwar Kameez.

Origin and History
• The beautiful conception of the Maheshwari saree dates back to 18th century
Madhya Pradesh.
• These sarees were first found and produced in the town of Maheshwar, hence
the name.
• These sarees were initially made of pure Silk, but with the passage of time,
Cotton was also one of the major fabrics used for these exquisitely designed
sarees.

• A centre for prime handloom weaving since the 5th Century, Maheshwar,
an ancient town on the banks of Narmada, was originally the capital of the
Malwas during the Maratha Holkar reign till January 1818, and enjoyed a
considerably elevated status in terms of royal interests. It was this
encouragement by the royal family that the Maheshwari saree came into
being.
• The interesting legend behind these sarees is of Queen Ahilyabai Holkar
who ordered various craftsman and artisans from Malwa ,Surat, Varanasi
and Chennai to weave special saree with 9 yards, which later came to be
known as the Maheshwari saree for the royal household and also as gifts
for Peshwa kings and visiting dignitaries.
• Exquisite turbans in yellow for the men in the army and red ones for
traders and the nobility were specially commissioned.

Rani Ahilya Bai Holkar (31 May 1725 – 13 August 1795)

• Legend has it that Rani Ahilya Bai Holkar employed a special team of
craftsmen from Surat and Malwa to design an exclusive nine yard saree
that could be gifted to her relatives and guests who visited the palace.
• With the first saree conceived and designed by Her Highness herself,
Maheshwari sarees went on to become a huge hit in the royal and
aristocratic circle.
• Following this, the production of Maheshwari sarees caught up, and these
graceful sarees soon started becoming popular with women of all ages.
• Today, this beautiful textile is one of the best sellers in both national and
international markets!

Special features
• Typically, the body is plain or sometimes has stripes or checks with geometric
motifs on the border. Traditionally, Maheshwar is were made purely in cotton.
• In the 1970s, silk was introduced in the warp, giving rise to the famous Garbh
Reshmi saris.
• The light and airy feel of this fabric is attributed to the cotton yarn in the weft
(baana) and silk in the warp (taana). Zari is used in the borders.
• Originally, the Maheshwari saree was made of pure silk. Then in course of time,
these sarees began to be made in pure cotton and with a mixture of silk and
cotton (silk yarn in the warp and cotton in the weft).
• Nowadays, wool is also being used in the production of Maheshwari sarees.
These sarees are extremely light in weight and present a sharp contrast to the
Kanchipuram sarees of South India.

Weaving process
• Two types of handlooms are used in Maheshwar – the older pit looms
which are heavy and fixed, and the newer frame looms with lightweight
metal frames.
• The latter is the more popular type now. The dyed and untangled yarn is
now ready for the tedious and time-consuming process of weaving by
master weavers.
• After dyeing, the yarn is normally received by the weavers in the form of
bundles. Both in the case of weft and the warp, the thread needs to be
freed from tangles and stretched in order to make them tighter.
• They are then are taken through a process of reeling by using a charkha,
thus converting the bundles into small rolls.

• In case of warp, a big motorised charkha is used; in case of weft, a small,
hand‐driven charkha is used, which makes bobbins.
• In the case of the warping of the silk threads, a more delicate process
involving an octagonal cylindrical frame and hooks is used.
• The fabric was dyed with naturally extracted colours
and zari and kinari was used to enhance the richness of this weave.
Weavers also used gold or silver threads and gemstones to embellish the
intricate patterns and add shimmer to the saree.
• However, now copper coated nylon wires have replaced the zari and time
constraints leave little room for the process of slow natural dyeing.
• Apart from sarees, Maheshwari fabric today is used for kurtas, shirts,
stoles, dupattas, etc. Since the fabric is airy and lightweight, outfits made
of this fabric are perfect for the Indian weather, making them an absolute
favourite.

Dyes and Colors
• Traditionally, a range of natural dyes were used, such as the red of the
sattalu plant, the browns from harada and yellow from the pallas flower.
Aal or the Indian Madder colour was used too.
• Today, chemical dyes are also used. A special dye called Sando Silk is used
for silk threads. The process begins by dipping the raw threads for
bleaching in a special solution.
• This is followed by the actual dyeing process where the dyes are mixed in
warm water in big metal tubs. Napthol is used to provide stability to the
colors.
• Then they are washed in plain water and hung on bamboo poles for drying.

Sources of Inspiration ( Motifs)
• The designs in the Maheshwari sarees were inspired by the detailing
on the walls of the Fort of Maheshwar and their designs is what
played an important role in inspiring the technique, weaves and
motifs on the Maheshwari saree.
• Some of these popular designs include the Mat pattern, which is also
known as ‘chattai’ pattern, along with ‘Chameli ka phool’ which is
inspired by the Chameli flower.

• One can also see the ‘Eent’ pattern which is basically a brick and
‘heera’, which is a diamond.
• These motifs and designs have not lost their prestigious place on the
Maheshwari sarees and are still a common design found all over, and
in large varieties
• The designs of Maheshwari handlooms are mostly border-based and
inspired by the engravings on the fort walls.
• Depending on the border design used, they come as bugdi kinar, zari
patti, rui phool kinar, phool kinar, chatai kinar, V kinar, kahar kinar,
bajuband kinar and so on.

Colours
• Originally, Maheshwari sarees were woven in earthy shades like maroon, red,
green, purple and black. Weavers used only natural dyes for the yarn.
• Today, Maheshwari fabrics are woven in many jewel tones which are derived from
chemicals rather than from flowers, roots and leaves.
• Popular colours today include shades of blue, mauve, pink, yellow and orange,
mixed with gold or silver thread. Subtle colours and textures are created by using
different shades in the warp and weft.
• Gold thread or zari is also used in Maheshwari sarees to weave elegant motifs on
the body, border and pallu .
• The most popular colors used in Maheshwari sarees are : Angoori (grape green),
Dalimbi (deep pink),Gul Bakshi (magenta), Jaamla(purple), Tapkeer (deep brown),
Aamrak(golden), Rani(deep pink), Dhaani (green) and Kaashi (light purple). Usually,
vegetable dyes are used in the preparation of these sarees.

Varieties
• The beauty of the Maheshwari saree is that each kind of Saree under this
style has a name or a term of its own, which marks its distinctness.
• The sarees are either plain in the center with exquisitely designed borders,
or have checks and stripes in different variations.
• There are 5 major categories, which are namely ‘Chandrakala, Baingani
Chandrakala, Chandratara, Beli and Parbi.
• The Chandrakala and Baingani Chandrakala are the plain kind, whereas the
Chandratara, Beli and Parbi fall under the striped or checked technique.

Current state of the art
• Following India’s Independence, the Maheshwari industry saw a major decline.
• However, in 1979, the Holkars of this region founded the Rehwa society to
revive the dying craft.
• Rehwa aimed at providing the women of this region employment while saving
an ancient craft that distinguished the historical town. Today, over 130 weavers
produce over a lakh of fine fabric a year which is highly coveted by top notch
designers in the country.
• Consistent efforts by the government in the form of schemes and benefits also
encourage weavers to work and pass on their knowledge to the next generation
which keeps this art alive.

• Under the patronage of Rehwa, the market value of Maheshwar is has increased,
especially in urban areas like Delhi and Mumbai. A major export market in France,
the UK and Germany provides a continuous supply of work. This also helps
innovators keep pace with changing global trends and cater to the tastes of the
changing times.
• Designers like Soham Dave, Amrich and Eka are some of the frontrunners of the
Indian handloom movement and incorporate a lot of textiles from Madhya Pradesh
in their collection, including Maheshwari sarees. A modern expression of this fabric
makes for its exquisite exotic appeal. These sarees are gaining steady momentum
every year, and therefore, are a must have in your wardrobe.
• Price range
A Maheshwari saree is priced at Rs.2000 and above.

How to identify a Maheshwari saree
• Maheshwari sarees are mostly woven in cotton and silk.
• These sarees are characterised by a narrow coloured border embellished
with zari, and small checks, narrow stripes, or solid colour in the body.
• The speciality of Maheshwari sarees is its reversible border, also known
as bugdi, which can be worn on both sides.
• The use of zari and kinari is also unique to Maheswari sarees.
• These sarees are embellished with leaves and flowers on the border,
in karnphool pattern.
• These sarees are known for their unique pallus which are made five
stripes, three coloured and two white alternating, running along its width.

Care for Cotton Maheshwari Sarees
• All varieties of the Maheshwari saree should be dry cleaned for the first few times.
• Subsequently, the cotton Maheshwari saree should be hand washed with cold water
and a mild detergent.
• Instead of wringing out the saree, gently squeezing the water out does the trick. This
process should be repeated with cold water, again delicately squeezing out the
excess.
• Greasy stains can be removed by rinsing the spot with a little lime juice in cold water.
• While drying the saree, it should be folded in half and put over the clothesline, and
direct sunlight should be avoided.
• Saree must be ironed on its reverse side. The best time to iron it is when it is still
damp, with the heat set on medium to high.

Care for Silk Maheshwari Sarees
• After the usual first few dry-cleaning sessions, it is advisable to avoid detergent
while handwashing it for the first time.
• Mild Detergent should come in only after two to three plain water washes, and
the silk saree should not be soaked in detergent.
• It must be dried under indirect sunlight, and not bundled up and kept wet for a
long time.
• While ironing, the saree should not be damp, but instead, completely dry. Using
two pieces of cloth over the saree during the process will ensure that the saree is
protected. Low heat levels on the iron are a must.
• The best way to store a silk saree wrinkle and crease-free is to hang it on a
hanger.

Vidya Balan in a classic black Maheshwari sari

Sharmila Tagore in a beautiful simple beige
color Maheshwari sari

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