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Soft Wearables
the economical, social, and ecological sustainability of wearables
Oscar Tomico
Eindhoven University of Technology
ELISAVA
moving from close-to-the-body to on-the-body interactions
- From Hand-Held to Body-Worn, Moen (2007).
- Crafting the Body-Tool, Nu単ez-Pacheco (2014).
moving from a wearer to a user of garments
- Human Garment Interaction, Bryson (2009).
- Social Aspects of Wearability and Interaction, Dune (2014).
- Soft Interiors, Paula Kassenaar, Philips Research (2012).
- Tender (2012), Vibe-ing (2012), freeing the body from product functionality and moving towards services in garments.
designing sustainable wearables doesnt require new skills
-CRISP
-BIG GOAL (TEXTILE + TECHNOLOGY + SERVICES)
- Growth plan for an inspirational test-bed of smart textile services, Wensveen, Tomico, ten Bh旦mer, Kuusk (2014)
it requires developing a new mindset
- Foundational Problems in Fashion Design, Thornquist (2014)
- Soft Wearables, Tomico & Wilde (2016)
Colab: Creative Technologies, Design and Textile Lab, AUT, NZ
exploring slow and fast (on-the-body) interactions
- 7th to 11th, October, 2015. AUT, Auckland, New Zealand.
- 2nd to 6th November, 2015. THS, Bor奪s, Sweden.
- 16th to 21st November, 2015. ArtEZ, EURECAT, CRTTT, Barcelona, Catalunya.
- 7th to 9th December, 2015. NTU, Taiwan Tech, Taipei, Taiwan
- Enfold (vibration) and HeartFelt (heat) explore well-being (being comfortable, healthy, or happy) as the new luxury.
what did we do? 
what did we learn? 
lets do a recap of the process
frictions experienced
- A. Hielkema, M. Peddie, J. Foottit, D. Cleveland, H. Fisher, B. OConnor, C. Stephen, C. Alexander.
designer vs. wearer vs. user
crafts vs. technology
function vs. aesthetics
thoughts vs. material vs. body vs. context
indirect vs. direct mapping
representation vs. expression
open vs. closed use and 鍖t
text vs. 鍖nal materials
with vs. without the material
precise vs. re鍖ned
design vs. re鍖ect vs. document
binary oppositions
designer vs. wearer vs. user
crafts vs. technology
function vs. aesthetics
thoughts vs. material vs. body vs. context
indirect vs. direct mapping
representation vs. expression
open vs. closed use and 鍖t
binary oppositions structured by negativity
designer vs. wearer vs. user
crafts vs. technology
function vs. aesthetics
thoughts vs. material vs. body vs. context
indirect vs. direct mapping
representation vs. expression
open vs. closed use and 鍖t
beyond binary oppositions structured by negativity
designer vs. wearer vs. user
crafts vs. technology
function vs. aesthetics
thoughts vs. material vs. body vs. context
indirect vs. direct mapping
representation vs. expression
open vs. closed use and 鍖t
beyond binary oppositions structured by negativity
designer vs. wearer vs. user - do I want to wear it?
crafts vs. technology
function vs. aesthetics
thoughts vs. material vs. body vs. context
indirect vs. direct mapping
representation vs. expression
open vs. closed use and 鍖t
beyond binary oppositions structured by negativity
- observing and re鍖ecting on personal behaviour and body movements in everyday activities.
- embodied ideation techniques, exploring heat and vibration as a dynamic material.
designer vs. wearer vs. user - do I want to wear it? - intentionality
crafts vs. technology
function vs. aesthetics
thoughts vs. material vs. body vs. context
indirect vs. direct mapping
representation vs. expression
open vs. closed use and 鍖t
beyond binary oppositions structured by negativity
- understanding the agency of the material from a 鍖rst 1st person perspective
intentionality
crafts vs. technology
function vs. aesthetics
thoughts vs. material vs. body vs. context
indirect vs. direct mapping
representation vs. expression
open vs. closed use and 鍖t
beyond binary oppositions structured by negativity
intentionality
crafts vs. technology - how many sensors does it need?
function vs. aesthetics
thoughts vs. material vs. body vs. context
indirect vs. direct mapping
representation vs. expression
open vs. closed use and 鍖t
beyond binary oppositions structured by negativity
- being precise with the proportions between conductive and natural wool.
- working with really old techniques and leaving the industrial felting loom a side.
intentionality
crafts vs. technology - how many sensors does it need? - transformations
function vs. aesthetics
thoughts vs. material vs. body vs. context
indirect vs. direct mapping
representation vs. expression
open vs. closed use and 鍖t
beyond binary oppositions structured by negativity
- crafting felted sensors, combining hand-made with industrial production in the same process.
intentionality
transformations
function vs. aesthetics
thoughts vs. material vs. body vs. context
indirect vs. direct mapping
representation vs. expression
open vs. closed use and 鍖t
beyond binary oppositions structured by negativity
intentionality
transformations
function vs. aesthetics - does it need to be functional?
thoughts vs. material vs. body vs. context
indirect vs. direct mapping
representation vs. expression
open vs. closed use and 鍖t
beyond binary oppositions structured by negativity
- combining colours to make beautiful industrial felted textiles.
- dealing with standard heating pads, layers and construction.
intentionality
transformations
function vs. aesthetics - does it need to be functional? - qualities
thoughts vs. material vs. body vs. context
indirect vs. direct mapping
representation vs. expression
open vs. closed use and 鍖t
beyond binary oppositions structured by negativity
- touch sensors can be luxurious too, and  they tickle.
intentionality
transformations
qualities
thoughts vs. material vs. body vs. context
indirect vs. direct mapping
representation vs. expression
open vs. closed use and 鍖t
beyond binary oppositions structured by negativity
intentionality
transformations
qualities
thoughts vs. material vs. body vs. context - stop thinking! do!
indirect vs. direct mapping
representation vs. expression
open vs. closed use and 鍖t
beyond binary oppositions structured by negativity
- we need to know 鍖rst what we want to do
- we need to test it 鍖rst, test it again, and again till it is ready.
intentionality
transformations
qualities
thoughts vs. material vs. body vs. context - stop thinking! do! - relations
indirect vs. direct mapping
representation vs. expression
open vs. closed use and 鍖t
beyond binary oppositions structured by negativity
- how does felt feel when pressing it to your neck while we talk?
intentionality
transformations
qualities
relations
indirect vs. direct mapping
representation vs. expression
open vs. closed use and 鍖t
beyond binary oppositions structured by negativity
intentionality
transformations
qualities
relations
indirect vs. direct mapping - is it working? and now?
representation vs. expression
open vs. closed use and 鍖t
beyond binary oppositions structured by negativity
- for now I will use a potentiometer to check how we can make heating pad work.
- Im developing the right sensor for the speci鍖c bodily action Im supporting.
intentionality
transformations
qualities
relations
indirect vs. direct mapping - is it working? and now? - interactivity
representation vs. expression
open vs. closed use and 鍖t
beyond binary oppositions structured by negativity
- an interactive material (to be) can also be a compositeat the start.
intentionality
transformations
qualities
relations
interactivity
representation vs. expression
open vs. closed use and 鍖t
beyond binary oppositions structured by negativity
intentionality
transformations
qualities
relations
interactivity
representation vs. expression - is blue the warmest colour?
open vs. closed use and 鍖t
beyond binary oppositions structured by negativity
- let the material talk, and the form emerge from the interaction with the body.
- I love Japan and I think a lot of people do too.
intentionality
transformations
qualities
relations
interactivity
representation vs. expression - is blue the warmest colour? - meaning
open vs. closed use and 鍖t
beyond binary oppositions structured by negativity
- bodily expressions do relate to culture and reading them depends on the social group you belong to.
intentionality
transformations
qualities
relations
interactivity
meaning
open vs. closed use and 鍖t
beyond binary oppositions structured by negativity
intentionality
transformations
qualities
relations
interactivity
meaning
open vs. closed use and 鍖t - is this the right way to use it?
beyond binary oppositions structured by negativity
- a kimono should be worn in this way.
- it can also be used upside down and inside out.
intentionality
transformations
qualities
relations
interactivity
meaning
open vs. closed use and 鍖t - is this the right way to use it? - appropriation
beyond binary oppositions structured by negativity
- personalisation is a matter of being open for dialogue.
intentionality
transformations
qualities
relations
interactivity
meaning
appropriation
annotations from a work in progress
Soft Wearables
economical, social, and ecological sustainability in wearables
Oscar Tomico
Eindhoven University of Technology
ELISAVA

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Oscar Tomico, Eindhoven University of Technology