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Center for Contemporary Arab Studies Study Tour to Syria and Turkey-Summer 2002 Georgetown University By Paul G. Gallagher

Facts about Syria Geography - 185, 180 square kilometers (about 1/2 size of Italy) Four geographical regions -Coastal strip -Anti-Lebanon Range (mountains) -Fertile Crescent -Desert Climate -temperatures average 100 degrees+ in summer Population approximately 17 million 3.4% growth rate (one of highest in the world) over 1/2 less than 21

Government Socialist Popular Democracy (Ba’ath Socialist Party is dominant) President Bashar Al-Assad has ruled since 2000 Secular state, but President must be Muslim Religious freedom guaranteed Economy Since 1990’s has been decentralizing and moving towards a mixed command/capitalist economy Oil and natural gas deposits have increased since 1980’s 25% Agriculture-Cereals and cotton, tobacco, fruits, and olives 23% Industry-fertilizers, iron, steel, textiles, rubber, glass, paper and food processing, assembly of TV’s, appliances and tractors. Power generation has increased greatly with the dam at the Euprhates River 50% of government expenditures are on the military

Umayyad Mosque-4th most revered place in Islam

Minaret of Jesus-local tradition states that this is where Jesus will reappear.

Women must be covered when entering a Mosque.

Inner courtyard of the Umayyad Mosque

Children wander freely through the Mosque

The high ceilings and ample shade provide relief from hot afternoons

Fountain of absolutions in center of courtyard

Stained glass an influence from Christian era

Shrine of John the Baptist-it is believed his head lies in state here.

Mosaics line the inner courtyard

Entering the “Souk” or market area of the old town

Gold can be found at many of the shops

Spices and many kinds of fruits and nuts are also for sale at the souk.

The ceilings provide shade from the hot sun for shoppers.

University of Damascus School of Education

Administrative building at the University of Damascus

A young Palestinian student from East Jerusalem shared his experiences with me about the effects of the current crisis on his people.

Abdullah-our tour guide provides us with some background on the Christian quarter which we are about to enter.

Keeping the group together was a challenge with such great shops...

Even during the heat of the day people shop or stroll through the souk.

Caravan sarai in the heart of the souk provided traders with a place to rest and trade their wares.

Abdullah explains that the governments provided the funds to build and maintain the sarais throughout the empire to assist trade and maintain links between cities

The sarai provided housing for traders and a place to store their goods and animals in the city. Located in, or near the souk, they were a critical link in the economy of the Middle East.

President Hafez Al- Assad ruled Syria until his death in 2000.

Classic cars can be found throughout Damascus and other parts of Syria

The shrine of St. Paul provides a link to the area’s Christian past.

Narrow streets are a hallmark of the Christian Quarter.

This restaurant provides an example of Syrian architecture

The entrance to the National Museum in Damascus shows the many influences of the region.

The garden of the National Museum holds clues to the many influences in Syrian History. Can you guess this language?

The view looking out of the National Museum entrance

Palmyra - Roman Ruins and more…..

The entrance to the Temple of Bel (Baal) dates from 32 C.E.

The Altar where sacrifices were made to the God Bel

Restoration is underway on the site by a group of Polish archeologists. Some argue that the work actually detracts from the value of the site, but the potential value of tourists to the Syrian economy suggests that the work will continue. What do you think?

After six flights of a dark narrow stairway these folks were able to see Palmyra from a new perspective.

Restored columns from the Roman period

At sunrise early risers can see Palmyra from the back of a Camel

Restored theater from the Roman era

Mar Sarkis Monestary overlooks the town “Maalula”

Houses have been built into the sides of cliffs for centuries to protect against invaders.

Le Crac des Chevaliers “ Castle of the Knights”

Crusaders led by “Tancred” Prince of Antioch occupied the small fortress known as “Castle on the Slope” in 1110. They began improving the site after several earthquakes damaged the fortress during the 162 years they occupied the site. The site was never taken by force, but after a siege by King Al-Zaher Baybars in the winter of 1271 the Hospitallers, a Frankish Order of Fighting Monks, surrendered. The Crusaders were treated well by most accounts and allowed to return to their ancestral homes in Europe.

The site is important strategically because it overlooks the Buqai’ah Valley which leads to the sea, and the rich farmland below. At its peak the garrison held 4000 soldiers and was part of a string of fortresses that secured the “holy land” for the Christian kingdoms.

One of the key features of the Castle is its successive defenses. This includes a moat behind the main wall that protected the keep from the near side of the hill where the walls were least effective.

Desert “Hunting Lodge” for Umayyad Dynasty.

On the road to Homs we found “Beehive Houses” and children who were curious about the big bus full of visitors.

Aleppo-and our home for two nights-the “ Famous Baron Hotel” where “Lawrence of Arabia” was said to have spent many nights

Things have changed a bit since Lawrence’s time

Not the exterior of the building it seems….

The Citadel in Aleppo was improved upon by its inhabitants from the 3rd century. The Byzantines were unable to take it when they took the town in 961 and 968 and the Crusaders were unsuccessful as well in 1124.

Boys will be boys wherever you go...

Syria is quite a melting pot…note the red hair on this young man.

The courtyard inside an asylum for the mentally ill provides a break from the late day sun.

Dr. Stowasser gives a brief lecture on the provisions that Islam made for society such as this center for treatment of the mentally ill.

Two faces of Islam. One young and inquisitive, the other steeped in tradition.

The old city is a remarkable blend of the old and the new. Tradition is respected, yet the modern world influences most aspects of daily life

Young people appear remarkably happy with few material things.

The covered Souk in Aleppo is narrower than that of Damascus. It is darker, and more difficult to navigate, but seemed to have a greater variety of foods and goods available.

Public access to water was evident in many places.

This young girl explained to us that she was selling baked goods instead of attending school at the direction of her parents. It was not clear whether this was out of financial need or traditional beliefs held by her family.

The young boy said that he attended school regularly.

Roman road on the way to the Turkish border and Antakya. Just wide enough for a legion to pass in formation.

Bedouin nomads living near an ancient Church.

We never found out if the children attended school or not. It is likely that they live a traditional life helping tend the flocks.

No fear of strangers here, just curiosity...

Monastery of St. Simeon Stylites (390-459) He was a shepherd in his childhood and had a vision that he spent his later life on pillars. Because of his severe mortifications he was ousted from the monastery at Heliodorus. He erected a ten foot high pillar to stay away from the crowd that came to him in search of his wisdom. He lived the rest of his life on pillars up to 60 feet tall. He wore only simple skins of animals and fasted the entire 40 days of Lent for 40 years. This monastery was built in his honor.

A young man of 19 approached me and asked if I was English. I stated I was American, and he was amazed that Americans would visit Syria. “Why do Americans hate us?” He asked. I told him that most Americans were upset at the attack on innocent people in our country, but that we tend to accept everyone in our country. He said that he hoped one day we can all be friends and more Americans will come visit. If they are at all like you they must be okay.

Baptismal well at St. Simeon’s Monastery.

Our final stop in Syria…kids swimming in an old quarry.

Abdullah Abdulhay- our faithful guide in Syria. Karmine Travel and Tourism Alleppo P.O. Box 8374 Syria Email: karminetour@mail.sy Tel/Fax 00963 21 2238550

A small token of our appreciation...

On to Antakya, �ճܰ��….

St. Peter’s Grotto on the feast of Peter and Paul. Kemal Attaturk, the “George Washington” of modern Turkey. His picture and statue is every- where and he is the symbol of the modern Turkish state.

Early Christians avoided Roman persecution by meeting in caves and catacombs like these overlooking Antioch (now Antakya)

The local police delivering flowers for the Christian feast day.

Military service is compulsory in Turkey. These recruits are on a pass doing a little shopping at the local market. Turkey is a strong partner in NATO. During the Gulf War many of our flights originated there.

Roman casket at the National Museum in Antakya.

Roman mosaics in the National Museum

Soldiers guarding a communications post above Antakya

Castle ruins overlooking Antakya

Caravan sarai/Fortress on the road to Adana near the Mediterranean Sea

One can see from the view why this location was important to the region….

Contrast of the old and the new….. History and the “modern world.”

Dr. Redford explains the process of excavation at the archeological dig near Adana.

The lab and a few artifacts in storage...

More artifacts and the vehicle that will get you where you need to go to find them...

Two areas of previous excavation….

Each layer can provide new clues to the past…..

Dr. Redford in his natural habitat

Heavy rainfall during the year contributed to the excessive undergrowth at the site. It will have to be cleared before work can resume this summer

The Hagia Sophia is perhaps the most famous building in the world. It has been a Church, a Mosque and is now a museum...

Every year thousands of tourists come from all over the world to see this great wonder

The Bosporus….separating, or connecting, East and West

Turkey is very European, and yet very Asian as well.

The Blue Mosque was built to rival the Hagia Sophia. Nice but no cigar.

By sea it is easy to understand why people were awed by the city from the earliest times. It is simply breathtaking….

Modern world meets the old world…...

Streetcars, and buses shuttle people throughout Istanbul. But taxis are cheap with the favorable exchange rate...

Many thanks to everyone who made this trip possible and memorable. Zeina Seikaly, Director of Outreach programs at CCAS, Dr. Barbara Stowasser, Director of CCAS, Dr. Scott Redford, Professor of Archeology, Georgetown University. To all of my fellow travellers a special thanks for being part of a great trip.

Three weeks, months, or years might be enough time to try to know a place like Turkey or Syria. The warm people and the similarities we all share in our humanity is what strikes me most after traveling to this part of our ever shrinking planet.Two “ Islamic” countries in two weeks. Each with their own traditions and history. Much of it intermingled and shared. Both unique. Both were full of surprises. Each has its own charm and, yet, like most places problems are lurking beneath the surface. Conclusions? More questions than answers. Perhaps that’s a good reason to go back...

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