in food studies course i had a discipline called recipes' reasons: researching culinary history. as part of our assignments, we were required to give presentations on the history/origins of a dish. i talked about feijoada, brazil's national dish.
i approached the origins of the dish not through the origins of each ingredient, but how socio-economical and political context in brazil demanded a creation of a national dish in order to affirm brazil as an independent nation.
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food studies :: the origins of feijoada
1. RECIPES REASONS
Maria Raquel Lucena de Almeida
Tutorial Presentation
180713
The University of Adelaide - Food Studies
Feijoada: The origins of Brazil's National Dish
5. Feijoada Completa
a rich stew of beans, variety of
meats, and flavourings
rice, saut辿ed couve (collard greens),
oranges, farofa, and an uncooked
salsa of onions, tomatoes, peppers,
cilantro, and dressing
Fajans, 89
7. Feijoada: Origins
MythIn the few intervals of farm work, slaves would get
from their masters' kitchens parts of pork which did
not serve the taste of their lords and cook it with
beans, the only food that would be allowed for them.
9. Feijoada
Portugal, Tr叩s os Montes
with kidney beans
Mozambique
Goa
East Timor
Cape Verde
cachupa
Other versions of the dish
10. A Brazilian family in Rio de Janeiro
Jean-Baptiste Debret, 1827
Wikimedia Commons
Feijoada: Origins
Letters Jean-Baptiste Debret
11. Feijoada: Origins
Menu
Di叩rio de Pernambuco of August 7, 1833
Th辿但tre Hotel in Recife, Pernambuco
Feijoada la Brazilian
Advertisement
January 5, 1849
Rio de Janeiro
The excellent Feijoada la Brazilian
13. How did feijoada become Brazil's national dish?
1822
1888
1889
Brazil becomes independent
from Portugal
Abolition of Slavery
Proclamation of the Republic
September 7
May 13
November 15
First efforts to establish a national identity
Feijoada: 1833 (first mention on a menu)
14. Summing up
Feijoada is Brazil's iconic dish
It puts together a whole nation and many different regional cuisines.
Myth: It was invented by slaves
Fact: It is influenced by many different countries and have different versions
in another places in the world. The oldest references to Feijoada are from
menus and advertisements of restaurants patronised by the urban elite.
As a national symbol, the history of feijoada parallels the narrative of Brazil
as a mixed country, with different cultures, races, ethos and religions in the
same pot.
15. References
Benta, Dona. Dona Benta: Comer Bem. 76th ed. S達o Paulo: Companhia Editora Nacional, 2004
Cascudo, Lu鱈s da C但mara. Hist坦ria da Alimenta巽達o no Brasil. 3rd ed. S達o Paulo: Global, 2004.
Elias, Rodrigo. Feijoada: a short history of an edible institution. Textos do Brasil 13 Sabores do
Brasil. Accessed July 16, 2013 http://dc.itamaraty.gov.br/publicacoes/textos/ingles/revistaing13.pdf
El-Kareh, Almir Chaiban. A vit坦ria da feijoada. Niter坦i: Editora da UFF, 2012.
Fajans, Jane. Brazilian food : race, class and identity in regional cuisines. Oxford: Berg, 2012.
Fry, Peter. "Politics, Nationality, and the Meanings of 'Race' in Brazil." Daedalus 129.2 (2000): 83.
Freyre, Gilberto. The Masters and The Slaves A Study in the Development of Brazilian Civilization.
Translated by Samuel Putnam. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1971.
Hamilton, Cherie. Bahian Bean Stew in Brazil, a Culinary Journey. New York: Hippocrene Books,
2005, 54 55.
Oliven, Ruben George. The Production and Consumption of Culture in Brazil. Latin American
Perspectives, 11, No. 1, Brazil in Crisis (1984): 103- 115.