Trends and Blends Lightening Workshop
- 1. Opal Dove Signature Salon Trends & Blend Lightening Workshop
- 2. 1. Scalp and Hair Analysis 2. 5 steps to Hair Coloring 3.Consultation 4. Tools & Product 5. Flash lift Features and Benefits 6. Balayage step by step 7. Root Tap vs Root smudge 8 Blended Face Frame (Money Piece) 9. Shades EQ Features and Benefits 10. Toning ( Undertones, Numnering System) 11. Myfi media presentation 12. Closing Trends &Blend
- 3. What's in it for you?
- 4. Hair coloring services are one of the fastest growing and lucrative services within the cosmetology industry. Learning the fundamentals of color will provide YOU the licensed professional knowledge necessary to be successful behind the chair and to grow not only your revenue but as well as retaining guest
- 5. Trends and Blend 5 Steps to Hair Coloring
- 6. Determine the Natural level 5 Steps to Hair Coloring ? Select hair swatch that closely resembles your guest natural level ? Choose a different level hair swatch to decide the hair color level on mid strand ? If the hair color appears to fall between two levels choose the darker level.
- 7. Determine the Target Level and Tone 5 Steps to Hair Coloring ? Are you looking to go.... ? Go Darker than Natural Hair Color ? Go Lighter than Natural Hair Color ? Maintain the same Level
- 8. Do you like to see.. 5Steps to HairColoring ? Warm Tones ( Strawberry, Bronze, gold) ? Cool Tones ( Smokey, Ash, Platinum ? Natural Tones (Sandy, Tan, Wheat) ? Brighter Tones vs Subtle Tones
- 9. Determine the undertones 5 Steps to Hair Coloring ? The undertone you will either enhance or neutralize to achieve target level ? Red undertones - Green base color ? Orange undertones - Blue base color ? Yellow undertones- Purple base color
- 10. Determine the percentage of Grey 5 Steps to Hair Coloring ? Determine the developers strength ? Same level or 1 level higher than base level ? 1 to 2 levels lighter than base 20 ? 2 to 3 levels lighter than base level 30 vol ? 3 to 4 levels lighter than base level 40 vol
- 11. Hair & Scalp Analysis
- 12. Scalp and Hair Condition Scalp & Hair Analysis ? Does the hair appear to be normal or dry? ? Can the service be performed without causing more damage? ? Check for signs of breakage ? It is suggested that a strand test is performed prior to any chemical service
- 13. Natural Hair Type Scalp & Hair Analysis ? Straight, wavy, curly ? How will the hair type affect color placement
- 14. Texture Scalp & Hair Analysis ? Refers to the diameter of hair strand ? Diameter refers to the thickness of a single strand
- 15. Coarse Texture ? Has a large diameter and feel thick ? Absorb more color ? Appears darker ? Take longer to process
- 16. Medium Texture ? Has an average width and thickness ? Used as a base line for both processing time and accuracy of hair color
- 17. Fine hair Texture ? Small diameter feels thin ? Absorb less Hair color ? Can appear less covered ? Process quicker
- 18. Density
- 19. Density Is determine by the number of hairs per square inch on the scalp. The greater the density and the length the more product you will use.
- 20. Porosity
- 21. Porosity Hair & Scalp Analysis ? The amount of liquid the cuticle absorbs within a amount of time ? Resistant hair- cuticle lay flat minimal amount of hair color to absorb ? Normal hair- cuticle scales are slightly raised, allowing for good hair color penetration and processing time as expected ? Severe hair- cuticle scales are raised due to over process and or over use of heating tools. The amount of hair color absorbed may be uneven or process too dark. ? Irregular hair- the combination of severe porosity and on the ends with resistant or normal position mid shaft caused by improper chemicals, heating tools or irregular hair cut appointments .
- 22. Elasticity Hair & Scalp Analysis ? The ability of a hair strand to stretch and return to its previous form without breaking ? The average elasticity on wet hair is about 50% of its length or if the hair is dry 20% of its length ? Low porosity will break easily due to the use of harsh hair care products or being chemically over-processed
- 24. Questions Consultation ? When was the last time you had any type of hair coloring service? ? Would you like your hair color to whisper, talk, or scream ? How often are you willing to return to the salon in order to maintain your hair color ? What are your expectations ? Will you be trimming or cutting your hair today?
- 25. Feature & Benefits Redken Flash lift ? A maximum power lightening powder ? Redken first powder lightener to achieve 9 levels ? Conditioning pro-vitamins B5 ? 2 component system mixes with all volumes of developers ? No heat ? Do not cover ? Cream developer ? Processing time max 50 mins ? 1:1 or 1:2 mixing ratio ? Ideal for foils, air, hand painted
- 27. Step by step Balayage ? Set up station ? Drape your guest ? Perform hair & scalp analysis ? Put on gloves ? Section hair in 3 sections ? Mix hair color ? Start in the nap working to the top of the head ? 1/2 inch diagnole patings
- 28. Step by step... Balayage ? Sides 1/2 inch diagonal back partings ? Reapply as needed ? Repeat until the desired effect is achieved ? Rinse thoroughly ? Tone ? Shampoo and condition ? Proceed with desired services
- 29. Trends Root Tap vs Root smudge
- 30. Trends Root Tap/ Rootshawdow ? When - after a traditional foil highlight that goes all the way up to the root ? Why- to blur or shadow the place at the roots where highlights and natural color melt but not completely cover up highlights ? How- apply the shadow root formula in a horizontal section to about 1/2 inch from the root leaving out the hairline and process for 2 to 15 mins ? What- the root area should be 1 to2 levels darker than the highlights ? Redken shades: 9n, 8n, 7n, 7p, 7 t
- 31. Trends Root smudge/ Root melt ? When- after a teasy light foil, when creating a lived-in look ? Why- to erase any lines of demarcation so no one can tell where the natural base color ends and the highlights begin ? How-apply the root smudge formulation 1 /2 inch past where the teasy light begins. Process for 10 to20 mins ? What- the same level as the client natural color or a level darker depending on the desired look ? Redken shades: 4n, 5n, 6t, 7t
- 32. Trends Face Frame/ Money Pieces ? When- during balayage service or foil service. ? Why- To create brightness in a blocked area around the face ? How- 1/2 inch diagonal partings around the face 3 foils going back towards the high point. 1babylight at the hairline, 1 weave, 1 slice, and 1 teasy light freehand. Place in a foil ? What - 2 to 3 levels brighter than the base ? Redken shades: 9p, 9n, 9nb, 9nw,9v
- 35. Undertone chart Toning ? Level of shade ? Understone ? Neutralizer
- 40. Features & Benefits Shades EQ Gloss ? The hair color that thinks it's a conditioner ? Zero ammonia, acidic demi-permanent ? Enhance, enrich, change, tone down, intensify natural or color- treated hair ? Tone pre-lightened or high lighted hair ? Gloss, refresh, correct, ? Restore color to highlights ? Fill over lightened hair before a tint back ? Correct uneven , brassy or overly vibrant tones ? Mix 1:1. Shades EQ developer ? Process time 20 min
- 41. Toning Shades EQ Gloss ? Ash - 9na ? Platinum- 9v ? Neutral- 9n ? Buttery- 9nb ? Beige- 9nb ? Honey-9nw
- 42. Redken Shades EQ Dilution Solution
- 43. Redken shades Eq Gloss Dilution Solutions ? Shades EQ clear is an in the pigmented shade you can use alone to add incredible shine ? Shades EQ Gloss can be diluted with clear shade to lessen the intensity or lighten the tone of any shade eq formula ? Crystal clear mixes with shades EQ processing solution and offers no lift ? Maximum dilution- 1/2 oz of the shade to 1 1/2 oz of clear to 2 oz of developer ? Moderate dilution- 1 oz of the shades to 1 oz of clear to 2 oz of developers ? Minimal dilution- 1 1/2 oz of shades to 1/2 oz of clear to 2oz of developer ? Full strength - 2oz of shades to 2 oz developer ? For optimum penetration and durability of color results, Redken recommends processing for the standard time 20 mins. To achieve lighter results use diluted formulas, not reduce processing time.
- 46. Follow me at.... @obabystyles, Opal Dove Signature Salon