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FABRIC CUTTING
To make a complete garments, cutting is necessary. It means to cut out the
garment pieces from lays of the fabric with the help of cutting templates.
In garments industries fabric is cut from lay and spreading with accuracy
and properly which is termed as fabric cutting.
• Object:
To separate fabric parts from the spread of the lay according to the
dimension of the marker
• Requirements Of Cutting:
 Precession of cut
 Clean edge
 Infused edge
 Consistency in cutting
 Support of the lay

TYPES OF CUTTING METHOD
 Fully Manual
 Hand operated scissor
 Manually Operated Power Knife
 Straight knife
 Band knife
 Round knife
 Die cutting
 Notcher
 Drill
 Computerized Methods Of Fabric Cutting
 Computer controlled knife cutting
 Cutting by Laser beam
 Cutting by Water jet
 Cutting by Plasma torch

HAND OPERATED SCISSOR
• Features:
 First & oldest method of fabric cutting
 Used for cutting one or two plies of fabric
 Available to cut the fabric from left to right or right to left
 Can be cut by scissor
 Needs more time & contain high cost
 Used in tailoring & household purpose to cut fabric

STRAIGHT KNIFE
• Features:
 The elements of straight knife consists of:
1. An electric motor
2. Stand
3. A base plate usually on rollers
4. Handle
5. Knife
6. Knife Guard
7. Wheel
 Knife is driven by electric power
 Grinding wheel is present to sharp the knife during cutting
 Blade edge: straight edge, wave edge, saw edge, serrated edge
 Straight edge is mostly used
 Blade stroke 2.5 to 4.5 cm
 Can cut heavy fabric such as canvas & denim

STRAIGHT KNIFE
• Working Principal:
Two kind of powers are required to operate a Straight Knife
Motor power drive the reciprocating knife
Operator power drives the knife through the lay
The motor power needed is determined by
Height of the lay
Construction of the fabric
Curvature of the line being cut
Stroke of the blade
Greater power of the motor, greater blade movement to cut the fabric

STRAIGHT KNIFE
• Advantage:
Comparatively cheap & transferred easily from one place to another
place
Higher lay of fabric can be cut easily
Round corner can be cut more precisely then even round knife
Production speed is very good & fabric can be cut from any angle
• Disadvantage:
Some time deflection may occur due to the weight of the motor
Knife deflection is high in risk, when lay height is too high
Sometime accident may happen

DIFFERENT TYPES OF KNIFE
Round Knife:
Straight Knife:
Wave knife Straight knife Notch knife

BAND KNIFE
• Features:
Band knife comprises a series of three or more pulleys, powered by
electric motor
Cutting knife is endless in shape & flexible
Blade is usually narrower then on a straight knife
This method m/c is stationary but fabric is moveable
This is like saw mill cutter

BAND KNIFE
Advantage:
Used when a higher standard of cutting accuracy is required
Extensively used to cut very sharp corners small parts such as collars & cuff
Used more in men’s wear than ladies wear
Intensively risk of accident is low
Possible to cut 90˚ angle of the fabric
Disadvantage:
Work load is high as m/c is stationary & fabric is moveable
Not suitable for cutting large amount of garments parts
Not possible to cut fabric directly
Fabric wastage is high
Power loss is high

ROUND KNIFE
• Features:
Element of round knife:
Base plate & Electric motor
Handle for the cutter to direct the blade
Rotating circular blade
Blade diameter varies from 6-20 cm
Blade is circular
Blade is driven by electric power
Circular knife is driven by 1000-3500 cm
•

ROUND KNIFE
Advantage: Suitable for single ply cutting as well as multi-layers (say 20-
30 layers)
Suitable for small scale cutting
Suitable gentle curve cutting
Easy to operate
Useful for cutting layer parts of a garments
Disadvantage:
Not suitable for cutting very curve lines in higher no. of lays
Not suitable for higher production
Possibility of accident is high
Difficult to cut small component
Needs skilled operator

DIE CUTTING
• Features:
Mainly two types of die cuttings are available namely: Presses &
Clickers
Main parts of all die cutting m/c are Blade, Ram Head, Die, Motor
& Operating System of Ram
Die is made by metallic strip
Most useful to cut sharp & small parts

DIE CUTTING
Working Principal:
Die is prepared with metal strip according to the shape of pattern
Die press generally has a cutting die just penetrates the cutting pad in
order that the fibers of the lowest ply are completely separated
For die cutting, the spreader spreads a lay to the required placement of
dies
The spread is cut into sections to allow transport to the cutting pad
The gap between two dies 2-3 mm are placed when die is taken to cut
fabric lay

DIE CUTTING
• Advantage:
Extensively used to cut sharp corners of small parts of dress accurately
Most useful to cut at any shape or any angle
Comparatively less time required
Best method of cutting knitted fabric
• Disadvantage:
Fabric loss is high due to the need of block of fabric lay
High labor cost
To change the style quickly is impossible
Difficult to cut large components of dress

NOTCHER CUTTING M/C
Features:
Special type of cutting m/c & used in special case
Used to cut notch in the edge of some components
The invention of notcher m/c was done to make notch
The notch can be made in U-shape or V-shape

NOTCHER CUTTING M/C
Advantage:
Special type of cutting m/c & used in special case
Useful to cut small notch to the fabric
Most useful to make consistency in notching
Disadvantage:
Only used to make notch
Thermoplastic fiber can not cut by this m/c
Time loss
Use of the m/c is limited

DRILL CUTTING M/C
Features:
Needed to mark on the end of components of dresses especially for
pocket & dart setting
This m/c contains a motor, base plate, drill, & spirit level
For tightly woven fabric, making of hole by drill is permanent for long
In hypodermic drill some color is sprayed along with the hole so that it
can easy to find the marked place

DRILL CUTTING M/C
Advantage:
Needed to mark on the end of components of dresses especially for setting
pocket & dart
Make the hole permanently for long time
Disadvantage:
Only used for making hole in the fabric especially for setting pocket & dart
For loose woven fabric it can not make the hole permanently for long time

Cutting Machine of Garments Sector

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Cutting Machine of Garments Sector

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