This document provides information to help date vintage clothing from 1900 to 1980. It includes details on zippers, union labels, buttons, fabric content and care labels, designer labels, seam types, and fabric types that were common in different eras. Key details are provided on when plastic and metal zippers became prevalent, the evolution of union labels over time, how to identify Bakelite buttons, and when nylon, Dacron, rayon, and other fabrics began being used in clothing. Additional resources are also listed to help further research dating vintage pieces.
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Dating vintagetimeline
1. Dating Vintage Clothing
1900 1910 1920 1930 1940 1950 1960 1970 1980
Zipper 63
5030Zippers were too vulger for womens clothing Metal zipper, concealed, likely
on side seam, used on sleeves;
the few plastic zippers used had
large individual teeth
Metal zipper.
Usually on mid back
by mid 50s
Use of plastic zippers prevalent. By
70s almost exclusively on mid back.
Union Label 36 55 63
74ILGWU AFL ILGWU
CIO
ILGWU
AFL
Made under the standards of I.L.G.W.U.
Will not say AFL-CIO
40 ILGWU
AFL-CIO (1)
Large ILGWU crest
behind AFL-CIO
ILGWU
AFL-CIO (2)
(Solid Crest,
63-64 no R)
ILGWU
AFL-CIO (3)
(Red, white & blue)
64
Silhouette
Buttons 605030 Bakelite
Rub Formula 409 on with q-tip.
Q-tip will turn yellow if Bakelite.
Lucite
Often clear. No
smell when
heat tested.
Cheaper plastic alternatives become
more common through the 60s.
Rare in 70s+. Trendy in todays pieces.
Other Labels 60 Fabric content
labels become
mandatory
71 Clothing care
labels become
mandatory
Designer labels are more likely to be woven. Starting in the 60s printed labels become more common.
Search US Governments TESS to see when manufacturer name was in use.
Seams 6050Unfinished raw seams: Home seamstresses did not always have finishing tools.
French seams: Seams are folded under to fully conceal the fabrics raw edges.
Pinked:
Seams have
scalloped
edges
Serged: An overocking stitch, forms
a zig zag patern on the fabric edge.
Fabric Type 70
50 Nylon used in clothing.
Dacron (name for polyestor)
Polyestor name used
24 Rayon used in light dresses.
www.vintagelovebygigi.com
Usually feature a union crest with shaking hands.
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