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The
Complete
Guide to
Diamond
Settings

©2010 Whiteflash, Inc. All rights reserved.


Contents
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Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
The Prong Setting. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
The Bezel Setting. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Tension Setting. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Melée Settings. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13



Introduction
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If you are in the market for a new diamond ring, it is important to research every
aspect of the ring-buying experience, from the diamonds themselves to the
upgrade and shipping policies of the seller, before going through with the
purchase. An engagement ring is one of the most special pieces of jewelry a
woman will even own, and often one of the most valuable. Whether you are
shopping for yourself or a loved one, it is well worth the time to do your
homework before making the purchase.

One important area to look at is the diamond setting you prefer for your ring. It's
easy to get overwhelmed by the hundreds of styles available and the unfamiliar
terminology used to describe the settings. Plus, many of the diamond rings you
look at look very similar to each other, and it can be hard to figure out the
nuanced differences in design that sets one ring apart from another.

This is the definitive guide to diamond settings for engagement rings and many
other pieces of diamond jewelry. Everything you need to know about prong,
pavé and tiffany-style settings is here, explained in everyday language that even
the diamond novice can easily understand.

First, we will look at the two settings most often used to hold the center stone of
most engagement rings in place. Almost every engagement ring you will find,
whether it is a solitaire, three-stone, or diamond-embellished setting, will use a
variation of these two settings to hold the center stone in place. Choosing
between the two will instantly narrow down your search and give you a much
better idea of what kind of ring you are looking for.


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The Prong Setting
When Levi Fields set out to buy an engagement ring for his fiancée, Rachel Gitlin,
she told him that she really wanted to wear a ring from her grandmother, a
simple gold band set with small diamonds, alongside her engagement ring. Levi
began looking at ring styles, hoping to find a setting simple enough to work
alongside the heirloom ring, but still eye-catching enough to be the focal point
of her hand. After deliberating between several styles, Levi and Rachel chose the
six-prong tiffany-style prong setting in yellow gold. Today, Rachel wears the ring
every day, even when her grandmother's ring rests in her jewelry box.

This is the classic four prong Tiffany style,
so called for the arrangement of the
prongs, which was developed by Tiffany
and Co. in the 19th century. It is the
single most popular and classic
engagement ring style style to this day.

Long considered the gold standard in engagement ring settings, the prong
setting remains the single most popular setting style, used by itself in solitaire
styles such as the Tiffany style setting and in combinations with other decorative
accents. The prong setting uses thin metal prongs extending from the base of
the ring and holding the diamond in place by resting on its top edge. This
setting style anchors the center diamond securely in place while raising it above
the rest of the ring, creating that raised profile that is so popular.

This dramatic and elegant
cathedral setting takes the classic
cathedral as its inspiration, with
arches from the band to the
central stone, accentuating the
diamond.


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The Prong Setting
The number one advantage of the prong setting is the percentage of the
diamond that can be seen, from both the top and side perspectives. No other
diamond setting exposes as much of the stone to the light, while still holding it
securely in place. The classic variation of the prong setting, the tiffany-style
setting, was developed to scientifically cast as much light as possible into the
stone, making the center stone the entire focal point of the ring. This is why the
prong setting has remained the most popular diamond setting for solitaires,
where the simplicity of the rest of the ring demands that the center stone be
given an eye-catching display.

The x-prong, or trellis, style
crosses one band over the other,
forming a simple but elegant
shape that adds extra security to
the center stone.

Prong settings are also typically one of the less expensive diamond settings, due
to their popularity and simplicity of design, which means that you can focus
most of your ring budget on getting a fabulous stone without compromising on
setting quality. Of course, it is never a good idea to entrust the security of your
diamond to a “discount” ring setting, but a simple prong setting from a reliable
jeweler should be moderately priced and solidly made. Prong settings also
typically raise the stone slightly above the rest of the ring, which can make the
stone look larger (although low-profile prong settings are also available).

The w-prong style features
an interesting cut-out shape
and an unexpected side
profile.


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The Prong Setting
The two reasons people might not opt for the prong diamond setting is comfort
and convenience. For someone with an active lifestyle or small children, the
prong setting, especially one with a high profile, can snag too easily on clothing
or other materials.

Also, the prong setting is not as damage-resistant as the bezel setting; someone
with an active life, like a rock climber or dancer, might be better off with at least a
partial bezel setting. However, as long as the ring is worn under normal
conditions and the prongs are inspected regularly, nearly all customers wear
their prong-set diamonds for years without any problems. If you choose a prong
diamond setting, make sure to check frequently to make sure all the prongs are
undamaged and are lying securely against the stone.

This Lotus ring features a petal setting, which
seems like an entirely different setting style.
However, if you look closely you can see that
the center stone is still held in place by prongs
extending from the tip of the decorative petals.

There are many styles and variations on the prong setting. Many of them will use
company-specific terms like tiffany-style, cathedral, and petal settings, but really,
any setting that uses thin metal bands extending from the ring's base and
wrapping over the edge of the diamond falls into this category.


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The Prong Setting
Most prong styles are referred to by the number of prongs used, a small
difference that can drastically alter the look of the ring. Three-prong styles are
not recommended for engagement rings, but four and six prong settings are
popular, as well as eight prong settings that group two prongs closely together
for extra security. Look carefully at the many styles of prong settings and you'll
see the subtle, but important differences.

This Hand Over Hand setting is an example of a
double-prong setting, which groups two
prongs together for a more stylish look. This
style is popular for stones of unusual shapes.


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The Bezel Setting
Long appreciated by everyone from preschool teachers to rock stars, the humble
bezel setting is finally getting its turn in the spotlight. The bezel setting, second
in popularity only to the prong setting, is quickly gaining fans, and is being used
in new and more creative ways every day. The bezel setting encircles the center
stone in a metal rim, or collar that extends slightly above the girdle, or top
surface of the stone. It can be full, in which the metal completely encircles the
stone, or partial, in which the collar cuts away and reveals part of the stone's side
profile. It is one of the safest, most protected environments for your diamond,
making it perfect for someone with an active lifestyle.

The partial bezel setting
combines the security of the
bezel setting and the side
profile view of a more open
style.

Maryanne O'Neill explains the appeal of the bezel setting, which she chose for
her engagement ring. “I was looking for something a little modern, a little
different,” explains the pediatric nurse from Tennessee. “The bezel style was
perfect for me. As a nurse, I'm always working with my hands, so I wanted a ring I
could wear all the time without worrying about getting dirt in it, or even worse,
scratching someone.”

Strategic cutouts inside the
bezel setting give the setting
a more modern look.


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The Bezel Setting
The number one advantage of the bezel setting is security. A bezel setting is
custom-made for the stone that it will hold, so it is always exactly the right size.
The outer girdle (the widest portion of the stone) is placed in a small ridge inside
the bezel setting, and then the top lip of metal is bent down around the crown
(or upper portion) of the stone. The stone is held in place by the pressure exerted
by this lip, which creates a low, well-protected profile.

A variation of the bezel setting is the flush setting, in which the stone is placed
directly into an opening in the ring band, and the top of the diamond is allowed
to extend only a small amount from the base. Flush settings are more commonly
used for the decorative diamond melee on the ring shank, however, and are
rarely utilized for the center stone setting.

The full bezel setting
offers a sleek and
streamlined look.

Another advantage of the bezel setting is the modern, understated look it gives
to the ring. A sleek diamond setting like the bezel can also help improve the
appearance of a slightly flawed diamond, such as a family heirloom stone, by
reflecting white light into a yellow-tinted stone or covering flaws. A bezel setting
can also be protective enough for a gemstone that might otherwise not be
considered hard enough for use in a solitaire ring, such as a tanzanite or an opal.


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The Bezel Setting
The main disadvantage of the bezel setting is the slightly lower level of light that
penetrates the stone. However, a well-designed bezel setting, especially if it is
set with pavé diamonds in a halo setting, can still reflect plenty of light for that
sparkly look. In fact, it is for this reason that partial bezel settings and intricate
halo settings are among the most popular variations of the bezel setting.

The halo bezel setting
offers the perfect balance
of glamour and security.


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Tension Setting
Among diamond settings, the tension setting is set apart as one of the most
unusual and bold diamond styles to hit the market in years. For someone looking
for a unique and modern fashion statement in their diamond setting, the tension
setting, and similar tension-style setting is a great option. Although it is not
nearly as popular as the two heavyweight diamond settings, the prong and bezel
styles, it is a creative and interesting style and well worth a look.

In a true tension setting, the pressure of the metal band is used to hold the
diamond in place, rather than the prongs or bars of a typical diamond setting.
The diamond is set in small grooves cut into the sides of the ring shank, so it
appears to float in midair between the sides of the shank. Because the stone is
held in place by the spring-loaded metal, this setting can only be used with
relatively hard stones such as diamonds and sapphires.

Because the band of a tension setting is created only for a specific diamond, it is
manufactured only after the diamond has been purchased. The setting is
calibrated exactly to fit the diamond that has been chosen, and cannot be
changed or resized once it is purchased. Lasers are used to calibrate the setting
in order to apply perfectly-proportioned pressure to the diamond so it will be
held securely without shattering. Although a tension setting is a very secure
setting, the diamond and setting can be damaged if the ring suffers a blunt
impact.

Although the tension setting is a relatively new diamond setting, it is gaining
popularity for its unusual appearance. At the same time, new tension-style
settings are also gaining widespread acclaim for mimicking the intriguing look of
a tension setting without the price and complicated creation process.


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Tension Setting
The tension-style setting is a creative and bold diamond setting choice that uses
a hidden bridge to create the dramatic look of the true tension setting for a
fraction of the price. The tension-style setting also incorporates the security
advantages of both kinds of diamond settings --the secure hold of prongs with
the smooth silhouette of a tension setting.

The Lily style has the dramatic appearance of a true tension setting...

...but as you can see from this rear view, it is anchored beneath
the stone with a metal base, making it more secure and
easier to maintain


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Melée Settings
The word melée (pronounced “melly” or “meh-lay”) comes from the French word
for a mixture, and refers to the many styles of small stones that can embellish an
engagement ring. In the industry, this kind of setting is often referred to as a
“diamond setting,” which can be confusing, but separates this kind of
embellished setting from simple solitaire settings or three-stone settings.

The center stone in a diamond setting is usually secured with one of the
diamond settings described above, but the small stones of the melée have their
own setting styles that can drastically alter the look of the ring. An engagement
ring can have anywhere from three or four melée stones to up to a hundred.
These small diamonds can decorate only the head of the ring, where the center
stone sits, they can extend down the shoulders of the ring, or they can
completely encircle the ring band in a glittering shower of diamond.

Pavé Setting
The building block of most intricate diamond
settings is the pavé setting, in which many small
gemstones are set closely together, held in
place with nearly invisible metal beads, creating
the effect of a continuous, sparkling surface of
diamond. This setting style can also be called a
bead setting, or a micro-pavé setting if the
stones are especially small and closely set. A
pavé setting can be as simple as a halo of small
stones around the center stone or as dramatic
as a three-sided diamond-encrusted stunner.


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Melée Settings
Channel Setting
The channel setting is popular on eternity
bands and for the smaller diamonds on the
band of an engagement ring. In this diamond
setting, a row of small gems are placed into a
metal channel that holds them in place,
creating the illusion of an uninterrupted line of
diamond. It can be used with round or princess-
cut diamonds, and adds a more modern note of
glamour.

Shared Prong Setting
As its name implies, this setting holds
a row of diamonds in place with
linked prong settings, giving each
stone its own prominence while
giving a dynamic appearance to the
entire ring. This style is popular for
eternity bands, as well eternity-
inspired engagement rings. Because
the melée stones tend to be larger
and more significant, this is one of
the more valuable diamond settings.


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Melée Settings
Flush Setting
A cousin of the bezel setting described
above, the flush setting places small stones
directly into the metal band of the ring,
fitting them into a groove in the metal
without the decorative lip associated with
the bezel setting. This creates a sleek, low-
profile look without sacrificing the elegance
of a diamond-embellished band. A creative
and different version is the champagne
setting, which sets small diamonds randomly throughout the band, creating
sparks of light like bubbles in a glass of champagne.



Happy Shopping!
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Armed with these terms and images, you will be surprised at
your newfound ability to identify and understand engagement
ring terminology. These eight diamond settings account for
nearly all engagement ring settings - although they can be
combined endlessly into new and innovative styles. Simply by
choosing your favorite settings, you are well on your way to
discovering that perfect engagement ring. Happy Shopping!

Shop with
www.Whiteflash.com


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Diamond settings guide

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