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Fashion Conscious: Eco-chic designs from ReDress Raleigh

Amber Keister
Amber Keister

The document summarizes an article about sustainable fashion designers in North Carolina who are featured in the Redress Fashion Show. It profiles six designers - Katina Gad, Mary Ashlyn Thomas, Piper Honigmann, Ashley Mason, Juliana Fadl, and Timothy Cohen - and discusses their sustainable materials and practices. The Redress executive director explains their goal of educating people about the environmental and social impacts of the fashion industry and increasing sustainable fashion options for consumers.

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42 SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2016 CARY MAGAZINE 43 Fashion Conscious WRITTEN BY NANCY PARDUE | PHOTOGRAPHED BY JONATHAN FREDIN HAIR & MAKEUP BY TWISTED SCIZZORS, CARY A movement is underway to redress the Trian- gle, from the inside out. Changing the way we think about fash- ion and create it is the work of Redress, a nonprofit educating people on the impact of their buying decisions, in part through the annual Redress Fashion Show highlighting responsibly-produced apparel. All of us wear clothing and were making a choice every time we purchase that apparel, said Redress Executive Direc- tor Beth Stewart. Most people have a complete disconnect with how their clothing is produced. They have no idea who made it or what its made from. We are actively working to change peoples mindsets about what fashion is. The fashion industry has a massive impact on the envi- ronment, and is counted among the worlds largest polluters. It also impacts human rights, with some 40 million garment workers worldwide. Local designers offer creative, authentic eco-chic apparel continued on page 44 Change Your Clothes Consider the impact of your apparel and choose pieces that are: Upcycled Made in USA Handcrafted Vintage or resale Or use: Natural dyes Fair-trade practices Organic or eco-friendly fabrics Little to no-waste patternmaking Information from Redress, redressraleigh.com Inspired by the traditional wear of her fair-trade partners in Guatemala, designer Katina Gad offers up this fully-lined skirt with pockets, naturally dyed with coconut and coffee, and boasting hand-carved wooden buttons. The top is made of cotton grown, spun and woven in Guatemala, and dyed using basil.
44 SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2016 CARY MAGAZINE 45 Right now, there are not enough op- tions for consumers to buy sustainable ap- parel, Stewart said. Without providing that choice for consumers who want to purchase differently, the current negative cycle will continue. But Stewart and the Redress commu- nity see positive change happening in the Triangle fashion scene, where entrepreneur- ism thrives. All of this is leading to a growing interest in creativity and authenticity in terms of connecting with the stories behind something, a product, a store, a restaurant, Stewart said. There is a strong pride for North Carolina, and making things in the South. So what is eco-fashion? We consider sustainable fashion to be anything where the designer is consciously considering these impacts when creating it, perhaps by using more eco-fabrics or ensur- ing a living wage within their supply chain, Stewart said. We also consider resale and vintage to be another aspect of sustainable fashion responsible purchasing by buying something that doesnt add to the enormous waste created by the industry. Six designers were selected to take part in this years Redress Fashion Show expe- rience. Each produced fashion collections, took part in educational sessions and men- toring, culminating in the fashion show and exhibition held in August, which puts them in front of leaders in the fashion and textiles industry. These six designers love being a part of the North Carolina fashion scene and recognize the growing opportunities here, Stewart said. They simply need more knowledge about production and creating a sustainable business, in addition to sup- port from the community, to keep growing their brands. For many reasons, they are invested in the idea of sustainable fashion and believe that there is a growing market for that in the Triangle. Katina Gad, Raleigh Unity Outfitters, unityoutfitters.com About twice a year, Katina Gad travels to visit her colleagues at the Casa Flor Ixcaco womens weaving co-op in Guatemala, her fair-trade partners in creating environmen- tally-conscious fashions and accessories. For this fall collection, inspired by these Mayan women, Gad uses 100 percent or- ganic and naturally dyed cottons, each piece woven and dyed by the co-op using dyes such as eucalyptus, basil and coconut. The fabric is fairly traded, and pur- chasing it helps to provide women and chil- dren in rural Guatemala with food, educa- tion and other necessities, Gad said. The finished clothing is designed, cut and sewn here in Raleigh. While the pieces pictured were made by Gad for the fashion show, when hiring to fulfill larger orders she pays a living wage to local and single mothers to do the cutting and sewing. My goal is to produce beautiful and classic looks while providing meaningful work to women in need both here in North Carolina and in Guatemala, she said. On the Redress experience: It has helped me get my process streamlined. Ive made a lot of great connections, and had my eyes opened to new possibilities for my busi- ness. TOP: Gad designs these colorful, durable backpacks, while her sweater features hand-sewn elements. ABOVE: The purple multi-directional wrap can be worn five different ways, and is colored using basil and walnut dyes. The silk tank underneath was dyed in basil and charcoal, and the jeans are made with denim from Cone Denims White Oak plant in Greensboro. LEFT: This dress is dyed with eucalyptus and charcoal dyes; its neckline is hand-beaded by Gads fair-trade partners in Guatemala. continued from page 43
46 SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2016 CARY MAGAZINE 47 Mary Ashlyn Thomas, Broadway, NC Broadway Squared, maryashlynthomas.com Seeing a need for more office-appro- priate, day-to-night clothing options, Mary Ashlyn Thomas found inspiration in her daily commute: Abstracted florals and an- gled style lines that have launched Broadway Squared, such as the dress straps that mimic highway overpasses. The clothes are made using 100 per- cent organic cotton twill, poplin, silk crepe de chine, and cotton-spandex from custom- textile company Spoonflower in Durham. Theyre also meant to be durable, and to flat- ter various body types. Comfortable is important, said Thomas, who designs her prints to encom- pass the classic looks she loves, with modern design elements. I want it all to mix and match. On the Redress experience: Im just getting started, and theyve shown me the steps I need to take in business planning, the things to think about. Learning from people who have this level of experience has been very helpful. ABOVE: The cold-shoulder blouse is made of silk crepe de chine, and the shorts of 100 percent organic cotton twill. Thomas designs her prints to encompass the classic looks she loves, with modern design elements. LEFT: This mix-and-match line by Mary Ashlyn Thomas was inspired by her daily commute, such as the straps on her cotton-spandex swing dress, which mimic highway overpasses. Piper Honigmann, Carrboro Pipevine, etsy.com/shop/pipevine Having spent a few years living on a sailboat with her young daughter, Piper Honigmann learned a lot about waste and pollution along our water- ways, issues she addresses in her fash- ions, using organic cotton knits made by Spiritex in Asheville. My line started with the fabric, lo- cally sourced and organic, Honigmann said. The sustainability of the line is im- portant; it will be made in North Caro- lina, maybe even in Carrboro. And the main theme is mixing colors in unusual ways. These pieces fit almost everyone, are wearable and com- fortable. Her tiered pieces are made using long rectangles of fabric to reduce waste and maximize her color-mixing capa- bilities. On the Redress experience: My mentor has encouraged me to think, to compare selling my fashions directly on Etsy, or wholesaling to retailers. Theres been a fashion scene de- veloping in Raleigh, and now Ive met successful people in the industry, who all have some good tips about different aspects of the business and there are a lot of aspects! RIGHT: Designer Piper Honigmanns overlap- ping one-shoulder tops can be mixed and matched for fall. BELOW: Honigmann uses long rectangles of cotton knit fabric in her tiered designs, resulting in very little fabric waste and offering maximum color mixes. My line started with the fabric, locally sourced and organic, she says. The sustainability of the line is important; it will be made in North Carolina. And the main theme is mixing colors in unusual ways. These pieces fit almost everyone, are wearable and comfort- able.
48 SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2016 AD CARY MAGAZINE 49 Ashley Mason, Raleigh Rook and Roman, rookandroman.com Strength and power is the focus of Ashley Ma- sons collection, which uses a restricted color pal- ette, clean lines, and remnants of knit, jersey, syn- thetics and woven fabrics printed at Spoonflower. My clothes are inspired by the feminine glam, Studio 54 era, said Mason, and focused on female strength and ownership, and power. Shape and flow are important to me, in dramatic silhouettes. An important idea to me is that high fash- ion with environmental consciousness should be accessible to everyone, of every body shape and social-economic status. On the Redress experience: My favorite part has been learning about the nitty-gritty work that comes after the big idea, like techniques, manu- facturing and life cycle. This is not an education you would get anywhere else. Shape and flow are important to designer Ashley Mason, who uses a limited color pal- ette and clean lines to create the dramatic silhouettes of her collection, representing female strength and power. Her pieces, including tank and high-low skirt, left, and fitted dress, below, are made with knit, jersey, synthetic and woven fabrics. Jewelry is courtesy of Moon and Lola. 49 SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2016 Juliana Fadl, Durham Moon. Flower. Child, moonflowerchild.com; etsy.com/shop/oMoonFlowerChild With overlapping layers and varying lengths meant to mimic rolling sand dunes, this serene collection titled Desert Sage by Juliana Fadl marks her first foray into bridal wear, as she prepares to become a bride her- self in the coming year. Her materials are handwoven cottons and natural dyes, jersey, and lace and mac- ram辿 detail to echo desert foliage. Its a journey of related imagery, Fadl said, the desert, sandy dunes, the touch of green and the transition from dark to pur- est white. I want people to think that heres a bridal collection they havent seen before, something different in its colors and use of fabrics. Fadl also designs everyday wear for men, women and children. On the Redress experience: Ive met other entrepreneurs and Im learning from them, gathering new ideas and points of view. ABOVE: Handwoven natural materials shine in designer Juliana Fadls first-ever bridal collec- tion. Her bridal gowns of overlapping layers and varying lengths are meant to mimic rolling sand dunes; the dress at top right is two pieces, with a jersey skirt and macram辿 detail. LEFT: Bridesmaids dresses echo the serene desert theme.
50 SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2016 Timothy Cohen, Raleigh Perspectus Clothing, instagram.com/perspectusclothing Math and science meet fashion in this menswear line by Timothy Cohen, a self- taught designer who incorporates the Fibo- nacci Sequence into his designs, a series of numbers in which the next is found by add- ing up the two numbers before it. In nature, the sequence results in spi- rals such as those found in sunflowers and hurricanes. His bold designs are created us- ing sustainably-made, digitally-printed fab- rics from Spoonflower in Durham. Its important to me to show every- one that were all connected, Cohen said. These patterns are one of many eye-open- ing examples of how all animals and people on earth are connected. On the Redress experience: As a self- taught designer, this education on sustain- ability, how to manufacture, and the busi- ness side of fashion really helps show us the way, Cohen said. Fashion is so much more than the runway. Ive met educators, distributors, people in the forefront of the industry. Im working to become successful in a way that makes me happy. Designer Timothy Cohen marries math and science in his menswear line, with patterns reflected in nature. From left, pattern inspirations are sunflowers, ferns, and seahorses. The bold designs are created using sustainably-made, digitally-printed fabrics. These patterns are one of many eye-opening examples of how all animals and people on earth are connected, Cohen says. CARY MAGAZINE 51 Now Open! Carys newest high end boutique! Selling unique gifts, accessories, home d辿cor and clothing. The latest trends, onsite monogramming and Southern hospitality, where customer service is our priority. 1209 Parkside Main St Cary, NC | 919-377-8171 haliesboutique.com Follow us on social media for the most up to date sales and new arrivals: Facebook.com/haliesboutique @haliesboutique Many thanks Special thanks to Twisted Scizzors staff Amanda Kimball; Stefanie Branson; Kara Damboise; Morgan Daniels; Jenny Lancaster; Robin Larson- Vitale; and Stacy Rafael, and to independent stylist Patricia Harris. Also, thanks to shoot venue HQ Raleigh, and to models Carolina Broady; Brittany Fish; Claire Fletcher; Mitiele Gahagan; Marcus Hawley; Jordan Holt; Shanta Lucas; Diana McQueen; Rachel Nelson; Taylor Nelson; Mike Niem- hak; Erin Philbrook; Julie Pitts; Sarah Pohlig; and Julia Vo.

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Fashion Conscious: Eco-chic designs from ReDress Raleigh

  • 1. 42 SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2016 CARY MAGAZINE 43 Fashion Conscious WRITTEN BY NANCY PARDUE | PHOTOGRAPHED BY JONATHAN FREDIN HAIR & MAKEUP BY TWISTED SCIZZORS, CARY A movement is underway to redress the Trian- gle, from the inside out. Changing the way we think about fash- ion and create it is the work of Redress, a nonprofit educating people on the impact of their buying decisions, in part through the annual Redress Fashion Show highlighting responsibly-produced apparel. All of us wear clothing and were making a choice every time we purchase that apparel, said Redress Executive Direc- tor Beth Stewart. Most people have a complete disconnect with how their clothing is produced. They have no idea who made it or what its made from. We are actively working to change peoples mindsets about what fashion is. The fashion industry has a massive impact on the envi- ronment, and is counted among the worlds largest polluters. It also impacts human rights, with some 40 million garment workers worldwide. Local designers offer creative, authentic eco-chic apparel continued on page 44 Change Your Clothes Consider the impact of your apparel and choose pieces that are: Upcycled Made in USA Handcrafted Vintage or resale Or use: Natural dyes Fair-trade practices Organic or eco-friendly fabrics Little to no-waste patternmaking Information from Redress, redressraleigh.com Inspired by the traditional wear of her fair-trade partners in Guatemala, designer Katina Gad offers up this fully-lined skirt with pockets, naturally dyed with coconut and coffee, and boasting hand-carved wooden buttons. The top is made of cotton grown, spun and woven in Guatemala, and dyed using basil.
  • 2. 44 SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2016 CARY MAGAZINE 45 Right now, there are not enough op- tions for consumers to buy sustainable ap- parel, Stewart said. Without providing that choice for consumers who want to purchase differently, the current negative cycle will continue. But Stewart and the Redress commu- nity see positive change happening in the Triangle fashion scene, where entrepreneur- ism thrives. All of this is leading to a growing interest in creativity and authenticity in terms of connecting with the stories behind something, a product, a store, a restaurant, Stewart said. There is a strong pride for North Carolina, and making things in the South. So what is eco-fashion? We consider sustainable fashion to be anything where the designer is consciously considering these impacts when creating it, perhaps by using more eco-fabrics or ensur- ing a living wage within their supply chain, Stewart said. We also consider resale and vintage to be another aspect of sustainable fashion responsible purchasing by buying something that doesnt add to the enormous waste created by the industry. Six designers were selected to take part in this years Redress Fashion Show expe- rience. Each produced fashion collections, took part in educational sessions and men- toring, culminating in the fashion show and exhibition held in August, which puts them in front of leaders in the fashion and textiles industry. These six designers love being a part of the North Carolina fashion scene and recognize the growing opportunities here, Stewart said. They simply need more knowledge about production and creating a sustainable business, in addition to sup- port from the community, to keep growing their brands. For many reasons, they are invested in the idea of sustainable fashion and believe that there is a growing market for that in the Triangle. Katina Gad, Raleigh Unity Outfitters, unityoutfitters.com About twice a year, Katina Gad travels to visit her colleagues at the Casa Flor Ixcaco womens weaving co-op in Guatemala, her fair-trade partners in creating environmen- tally-conscious fashions and accessories. For this fall collection, inspired by these Mayan women, Gad uses 100 percent or- ganic and naturally dyed cottons, each piece woven and dyed by the co-op using dyes such as eucalyptus, basil and coconut. The fabric is fairly traded, and pur- chasing it helps to provide women and chil- dren in rural Guatemala with food, educa- tion and other necessities, Gad said. The finished clothing is designed, cut and sewn here in Raleigh. While the pieces pictured were made by Gad for the fashion show, when hiring to fulfill larger orders she pays a living wage to local and single mothers to do the cutting and sewing. My goal is to produce beautiful and classic looks while providing meaningful work to women in need both here in North Carolina and in Guatemala, she said. On the Redress experience: It has helped me get my process streamlined. Ive made a lot of great connections, and had my eyes opened to new possibilities for my busi- ness. TOP: Gad designs these colorful, durable backpacks, while her sweater features hand-sewn elements. ABOVE: The purple multi-directional wrap can be worn five different ways, and is colored using basil and walnut dyes. The silk tank underneath was dyed in basil and charcoal, and the jeans are made with denim from Cone Denims White Oak plant in Greensboro. LEFT: This dress is dyed with eucalyptus and charcoal dyes; its neckline is hand-beaded by Gads fair-trade partners in Guatemala. continued from page 43
  • 3. 46 SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2016 CARY MAGAZINE 47 Mary Ashlyn Thomas, Broadway, NC Broadway Squared, maryashlynthomas.com Seeing a need for more office-appro- priate, day-to-night clothing options, Mary Ashlyn Thomas found inspiration in her daily commute: Abstracted florals and an- gled style lines that have launched Broadway Squared, such as the dress straps that mimic highway overpasses. The clothes are made using 100 per- cent organic cotton twill, poplin, silk crepe de chine, and cotton-spandex from custom- textile company Spoonflower in Durham. Theyre also meant to be durable, and to flat- ter various body types. Comfortable is important, said Thomas, who designs her prints to encom- pass the classic looks she loves, with modern design elements. I want it all to mix and match. On the Redress experience: Im just getting started, and theyve shown me the steps I need to take in business planning, the things to think about. Learning from people who have this level of experience has been very helpful. ABOVE: The cold-shoulder blouse is made of silk crepe de chine, and the shorts of 100 percent organic cotton twill. Thomas designs her prints to encompass the classic looks she loves, with modern design elements. LEFT: This mix-and-match line by Mary Ashlyn Thomas was inspired by her daily commute, such as the straps on her cotton-spandex swing dress, which mimic highway overpasses. Piper Honigmann, Carrboro Pipevine, etsy.com/shop/pipevine Having spent a few years living on a sailboat with her young daughter, Piper Honigmann learned a lot about waste and pollution along our water- ways, issues she addresses in her fash- ions, using organic cotton knits made by Spiritex in Asheville. My line started with the fabric, lo- cally sourced and organic, Honigmann said. The sustainability of the line is im- portant; it will be made in North Caro- lina, maybe even in Carrboro. And the main theme is mixing colors in unusual ways. These pieces fit almost everyone, are wearable and com- fortable. Her tiered pieces are made using long rectangles of fabric to reduce waste and maximize her color-mixing capa- bilities. On the Redress experience: My mentor has encouraged me to think, to compare selling my fashions directly on Etsy, or wholesaling to retailers. Theres been a fashion scene de- veloping in Raleigh, and now Ive met successful people in the industry, who all have some good tips about different aspects of the business and there are a lot of aspects! RIGHT: Designer Piper Honigmanns overlap- ping one-shoulder tops can be mixed and matched for fall. BELOW: Honigmann uses long rectangles of cotton knit fabric in her tiered designs, resulting in very little fabric waste and offering maximum color mixes. My line started with the fabric, locally sourced and organic, she says. The sustainability of the line is important; it will be made in North Carolina. And the main theme is mixing colors in unusual ways. These pieces fit almost everyone, are wearable and comfort- able.
  • 4. 48 SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2016 AD CARY MAGAZINE 49 Ashley Mason, Raleigh Rook and Roman, rookandroman.com Strength and power is the focus of Ashley Ma- sons collection, which uses a restricted color pal- ette, clean lines, and remnants of knit, jersey, syn- thetics and woven fabrics printed at Spoonflower. My clothes are inspired by the feminine glam, Studio 54 era, said Mason, and focused on female strength and ownership, and power. Shape and flow are important to me, in dramatic silhouettes. An important idea to me is that high fash- ion with environmental consciousness should be accessible to everyone, of every body shape and social-economic status. On the Redress experience: My favorite part has been learning about the nitty-gritty work that comes after the big idea, like techniques, manu- facturing and life cycle. This is not an education you would get anywhere else. Shape and flow are important to designer Ashley Mason, who uses a limited color pal- ette and clean lines to create the dramatic silhouettes of her collection, representing female strength and power. Her pieces, including tank and high-low skirt, left, and fitted dress, below, are made with knit, jersey, synthetic and woven fabrics. Jewelry is courtesy of Moon and Lola. 49 SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2016 Juliana Fadl, Durham Moon. Flower. Child, moonflowerchild.com; etsy.com/shop/oMoonFlowerChild With overlapping layers and varying lengths meant to mimic rolling sand dunes, this serene collection titled Desert Sage by Juliana Fadl marks her first foray into bridal wear, as she prepares to become a bride her- self in the coming year. Her materials are handwoven cottons and natural dyes, jersey, and lace and mac- ram辿 detail to echo desert foliage. Its a journey of related imagery, Fadl said, the desert, sandy dunes, the touch of green and the transition from dark to pur- est white. I want people to think that heres a bridal collection they havent seen before, something different in its colors and use of fabrics. Fadl also designs everyday wear for men, women and children. On the Redress experience: Ive met other entrepreneurs and Im learning from them, gathering new ideas and points of view. ABOVE: Handwoven natural materials shine in designer Juliana Fadls first-ever bridal collec- tion. Her bridal gowns of overlapping layers and varying lengths are meant to mimic rolling sand dunes; the dress at top right is two pieces, with a jersey skirt and macram辿 detail. LEFT: Bridesmaids dresses echo the serene desert theme.
  • 5. 50 SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2016 Timothy Cohen, Raleigh Perspectus Clothing, instagram.com/perspectusclothing Math and science meet fashion in this menswear line by Timothy Cohen, a self- taught designer who incorporates the Fibo- nacci Sequence into his designs, a series of numbers in which the next is found by add- ing up the two numbers before it. In nature, the sequence results in spi- rals such as those found in sunflowers and hurricanes. His bold designs are created us- ing sustainably-made, digitally-printed fab- rics from Spoonflower in Durham. Its important to me to show every- one that were all connected, Cohen said. These patterns are one of many eye-open- ing examples of how all animals and people on earth are connected. On the Redress experience: As a self- taught designer, this education on sustain- ability, how to manufacture, and the busi- ness side of fashion really helps show us the way, Cohen said. Fashion is so much more than the runway. Ive met educators, distributors, people in the forefront of the industry. Im working to become successful in a way that makes me happy. Designer Timothy Cohen marries math and science in his menswear line, with patterns reflected in nature. From left, pattern inspirations are sunflowers, ferns, and seahorses. The bold designs are created using sustainably-made, digitally-printed fabrics. These patterns are one of many eye-opening examples of how all animals and people on earth are connected, Cohen says. CARY MAGAZINE 51 Now Open! Carys newest high end boutique! Selling unique gifts, accessories, home d辿cor and clothing. The latest trends, onsite monogramming and Southern hospitality, where customer service is our priority. 1209 Parkside Main St Cary, NC | 919-377-8171 haliesboutique.com Follow us on social media for the most up to date sales and new arrivals: Facebook.com/haliesboutique @haliesboutique Many thanks Special thanks to Twisted Scizzors staff Amanda Kimball; Stefanie Branson; Kara Damboise; Morgan Daniels; Jenny Lancaster; Robin Larson- Vitale; and Stacy Rafael, and to independent stylist Patricia Harris. Also, thanks to shoot venue HQ Raleigh, and to models Carolina Broady; Brittany Fish; Claire Fletcher; Mitiele Gahagan; Marcus Hawley; Jordan Holt; Shanta Lucas; Diana McQueen; Rachel Nelson; Taylor Nelson; Mike Niem- hak; Erin Philbrook; Julie Pitts; Sarah Pohlig; and Julia Vo.