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Fashion lab productie

Marie Boutsen
Marie Boutsen

Tijdens het Fashion Lab productie kwam je alles te weten over hoe je van een eerste ontwerp naar een afgewerkt product kan gaan.

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FASHION LAB PRODUCTIE
13.00: Productie in al zijn facetten, door Ann Collier, IVOC & Jo van Landeghem, Creamoda 14.00: Getuigenis, tips & tricks door Samira Lafkioui, productiemanager Raf Simons 14.30: Fabrikant Frederiek Balli竪re, Balko 15.00: Pauze Nicole Verhagen, DmeetM 15.20 - 17.20: MEET AND GREET met Belgian Designer Partners, in samenwerking met Creamoda. 1-op-1 gesprekken met coaches AGENDA
Jo Vanlandeghem & Ann Collier Design <> Production
Production Specific Technical specifications Technical drawing The right manufacturer The Tags Fibre names Care labels
GOOD AGREEMENTS MAKE GOOD PARTNERSHIPS
The world of the designer Production: specific
The world of the fashion industry Production: specific
The methodology Question: Do we leave everything to the good care of the manufacturer ? Or do we take the lead ? Options: A. I design the model myself and leave the rest to the manufacturer B. I design, make the first pattern and leave the rest to the manufacturer C. I design, make the first pattern, make the prototype and leave the rest to the manufacturer D. I buy from the manufacturers collection or I choose something exclusive Production: specific
From idea to product The creative idea / the first sketch The development of the first pattern The first prototype The realization of the collection samples The size set samples The gold seal sample or reference sample for production Bulk production Production: specific
Technical specifications Model/style BOM Technical drawing Technical instructions Measurements Technical specifications
Technical specifications: Style
Technical specifications: Style/BOM
Technical specifications: BOM
MATERIAL CARD FABRICS DESCRIPTION COMMENTS REF SUPPLIER SEE DETAILS MATERIAL N属 QUT WHERE COLOUR COMBO 1 COLOUR COMBO 2 COLOUR COMBO 3 COLOUR COMBO 4 COLOUR COMBO 5 SHELL 1 100% polyamide ribstop - acryliccoating 600mm Clear transparant coating Body, sleeves, pocketpintucks, pocketentries, outercollar, galoon interiorcollar, sleevepocket, inside pocket, waistgalloon on lining Orange 171462 TPX SHELL 2 100% polyester microfibre 2 layers Contrast galoon exterior collar, interior collar, half moon on lining Grey 171501 TPX SHELL 3 Nylon 190T coated 600mm Clear transparant coating Hood Grey 171501 TPX LINING 1 Mesh 100% polyester Body lining Grey 171501 TPX LINING 2 Nylon 190T Sleeves lining, pocketparts inset pockets, lining of exterior collar, intermediate collar Grey 171501 TPX ACCESSORIES DESCRIPTION COMMENTS REF SUPPLIER SEE DETAILS MATERIAL N属 QUT WHERE COLOUR COMBO 1 COLOUR COMBO 2 COLOUR COMBO 3 COLOUR COMBO 4 COLOUR COMBO 5 ZIPPER 1 Zipper Vislon 9mm 2-way open end Completelyplastic - ALSO SLIDER PLASTIC - grey teeth 1 Centre front zipper Orange / grey teeth / grey sliders ZIPPER 2 Zipper Vislon 6mm closed end Completelyplastic - ALSO SLIDER PLASTIC 2 2 bottom pockets Orange ZIPPER PULLER 1 Ribbon 10mm 4x12cm zipperslider Orange DRAWCORD 1 Elastic drawcord Hem hood Orange STOPPER 1 Cordstopper Drawcord hood Grey PIPING Reflectivepiping Chestseam, horizontal backseam, sleeves insets VELCRO 1 Velcro loop circle diameter 7cm left upperarm Orange VELCRO 2 Velcro 20mm Sleeves narrowing Orange VELCRO 3 Velcro 20mm Collar + hood Grey ELASTIC Elastic 20mm Bottomparthem sleeves LABELLING DESCRIPTION COMMENTS REF SUPPLIER SEE DETAILS MATERIAL N属 QUT WHERE COLOUR COMBO 1 COLOUR COMBO 2 COLOUR COMBO 3 COLOUR COMBO 4 COLOUR COMBO 5 PRINTED LABEL On satin white polyester : print SM See tabsheet details materials SIZE LABEL Sizelabel in the middle of the neck See tabsheet details materials CARE LABEL Woven care label See tabsheet details materials 1 In the left sideseam HANGTAG 1 Hang tag SM See tabsheet details materials EMBROIDERY 1 LES SAUVETEURS EN MER SNSM See tabsheet details materials In the middle of the back EMBROIDERY 2 LES SAUVETEURS EN MER SNSM See tabsheet details materials On right upperarm EMBROIDERY 3 Embroideredbadge See tabsheet details materials On left chest PACKING DESCRIPTION COMMENTS REF SUPPLIER SEE DETAILS MATERIAL N属 QUT WHERE COLOUR COMBO 1 COLOUR COMBO 2 COLOUR COMBO 3 COLOUR COMBO 4 COLOUR COMBO 5 POLYBAG MINIGRIP SILKPAPER STICKER STICKER BOX Technical specifications: BOM
Fashion lab productie
Technical drawing
Technical instructions
Technical instructions
Technical instructions
Technical instructions
Technical instructions
Stitch types ISO 4915 (international standard) Class 100 : chain stitches Class 200: hand stitches Class 300: Lockstitches Class 400: Multi-thread chain stitches Class 500: Overedge chain stiches Class 600: Covering chain stitches
Seam types ISO 4916 (international standard) SS - Stapelnaad (Superimposed Seam) LS - Overlapnaad (Lapped Seam) BS - Gebonden naad (Bounded Seam) FS - Platte naad (Flat Seam)
Multi-thread chain stitches Lapseam/felled seam
Fashion lab productie
Fashion lab productie
simplicitynewlook.com Body measurements 1 Total length 2 chest width = bust 4 Waist 5 Waist height 6 Hip 7 neck shoulder - armlength
Hogent - smartfit
The right manufacturer Good to know Start prospecting before the season starts - first come, first served The time factor is utterly important. Be on time, respecting the right time zone Summer collection (November until February) Winter collection (June until August) Select a supplier according to your product needs eg. Tricot machinery tricot Better a few models / week than all at once
The right manufacturer Creamoda & its members Belgian Designer Partners Manufacturers are willing to work on the realization of the collection(s) of starters and to do an additional effort Meet & Greet events Creamoda website contains a substantial list of Belgian manufacturers Advantages of production with a Belgian partner: Coaching & advise Visit, control & corrections Small orders
The right manufacturer Questions to ask Working with starters ? Product types ? Volume big or small orders ? Quality level ? Price level ? Are modifications possible ? Capacity booking ? Timing ? Terms of delivery ? Payment terms ? Social compliance ? Product Safety ? Product testing ? Sustainable manufacturing ?
The right manufacturer Price & conscious choice Basic Model: if you have a good basic fit re-use it . With some minor modifications = can be less expensive than making a completely new one. Careful with Fabric Consumption (draperies) Manual finishing or machine finishing. Bio / Eco materials and finishing MOQ Minimum order quantities
Remember A good preparation makes half of the work A clear communication = crucial ( Technical file ) A clear quality sketch sometimes says more than words Provide a sufficient amount of fabrics and additionals ( buttons can get broken in the factory) Think about your labels, composition, brand, size, care instructions
THE TAGS Fibre composition Care instructions
Fibre composition
EU-Regulation No 1007/2011 from 27/09/2011 Prescribes the way the fibre composition of products needs to be indicated by means of a label/marking in order to protect the needs of the customer Textile products may only placed on the EU market when they comply with the directives of that regulation The full name needs to be used: cotton, acrylic, polyester, http://eur-lex.europa.eu/LexUriServ/LexUriServ.do?uri= OJ:L:2011:272:0001:0064:EN:PDF
EU-Regulation No 1007/2011 from 27/09/2011 Article 12: extra notice contains non-textile parts of animal origin Percentage does not matter and the animal species does not need to be specified IMPORTANT: even a leather label on a textile product needs to be mentioned!
Fibre composition Legally obliged in all European countries for all textile products Textile product = a product min. 80% by weight made out of textile fibres Needs to be written in the national language Abbreviations are not allowed Written in descending order eg. 50% cotton 40% wool 10% nylon
Fibre names Fibre names are determined by law only Official fibre name (generic name) = NOT a trademark or marketing name Not related to the manufacturer Eg. Coolmax, Lycra, Tervira, Tencel, Danufil...are not generic fibre names In principle there is only 1 generic name There is 1 exception: polyamide and nylon are synonyms Flax and Linen can both be used
The Care label according ISO 3758:2005
The Care label The care label is not abligated by law in the EU member states however: Obligated use of symbols in Austria Obligated use of symbols or text in Italy The symbols indicate maximum resistance to care and laundring The pictograms are the property of GINETEX. ETITEX owns the rights for Belgium and Luxemburg
The Care label Use the symbols with care Respect the sequence of the symbols When using the symbols, you need to pay a fee to Etitex http://www.etitex.be Continuous text = allowed but needs to be written in the national language
CONTRACTUAL AGREEMENTS BETWEEN DESIGNER & MANUFACTURER
(Standard) contract Framework agreement General agreement with rights and obligations Few changes needed Individual contract Further comments and specifications on the framework agreement Deviations from the framework agreement A lot of modifications can be made Regular renewal/modification is possible, but never without signing the framework agreement first
The framework agreement Definitions Subject Price & payment Rights and obligations of both parties (Intellectual) property Data confidentiality Materials, conformity of the finishing process and defaults Delays for finishing and delivery Duration and resiliation of the contract Legislation applicable and appropriate court
The individual contract For 1 season (1 collection) One sheet per model Sketch + details of the sketch Description of the confection assignment Patterns, prototype, purchase of the garments, preparation of the production and the production itself Prices, terms and places of delivery Other agreements Detailed description of the production assignment Sizes and numbers per size (models/finishings)
Availability of the contract In Dutch / French / English On request available at : Creamoda Tailor-made modifications are possible for members of the federation
Thank you! a.collier@ivoc.be vanlandeghem@creamoda.be
PRODUCTIE Lafkioui Samira
PRODUCTIE MANAGER 1. Planning en deadlines van productie bepalen. 2. Prijzen en kwaliteit garanderen. 3. Verantwoordelijk vanaf levering van de stoffen & trims tot levering van het afgewerkt kledingstuk. 4. Voortdurend op zoek naar nieuwe fabrikanten en werkmethodes om efficienter en beter resultaten te boeken. 5. De relaties met de producenten onderhouden.
1. PLANNING EN DEADLINES VAN PRODUCTIE BEPALEN
TIJDSLIJN GRONDSTOFFEN: - VAN AANKOOP TOT PRODUCENT: 12-16 WEKEN PRODUCTIE: - VAN LANCEREN TOT WAREHOUSE: 16-26 WEKEN - VAN LEVERING GRONDSTOF TOT WAREHOUSE: 10-16 WEKEN
2. PRIJZEN EN VOORBEREIDEN VAN NIEUW PRODUCTIESEIZOEN.
CODE MAKEN SEIZOEN JAAR MODEL HOOFDSTOF KLEUR 1 = ZOMER 2 = WINTER 16 100, 101, 102 = HEMDEN 200, 201, 202, = BROEKEN ... NAAM GEVEN WHITE BLACK RED SS AW 2016 PALM, PECAN, = PANTS TUPELO, TANOAK,.. = T-SHIRTS . 1000, 1001, 1002, .. = WOL 2000, 2001, 2002, .. = KATOEN 001-010 = WITTE KL. 011-019 = BLAUWE 020-029 = GROEN S W 016 001-019 = KATOEN 020-039 = WOL VOORBEELD: 1-16-100-DAZY-WHITE / SS2016-PALM-1000-019 / S16-200-20001-GROEN
HOE MAKEN WE ONZE PRIJS Grondstoffen = (aankoopprijs * verbruik) + transportkost van de goederen. DIENSTEN = gradatie, ontwikkelingskost, print, washing, plissage, Transportkosten, reiskosten en logistiek. Commissies. Packaging. **Maakloon. = (SUM) KOSTPRIJS ** Maakloon: A) CMT = (CUT & MAKE & TRIM) B) CM = (CUT & MAKE)
KWALITEIT GARANDEREN Alvorens productie te starten controleren we volgende zaken: Pasvorm / maat. Afwerking binnen en buiten. Hoe wordt het kledingstuk opgestuurd? Hangend? In een doos? Verder: Stoffen op: kleur, was, krimp, opwollen, Prints, borduursels, applicaties, ... Testen op wash, dry clean, ... Deze info is nodig om te beslissen wat er op het wash&care label komt.
PRODUCTIE BON SEASON : SRING /SUMMER ARTICLE: 1-17-200-W001-030 DESCRIPTION : CLASSIC PANT SIZE 44 46 48 50 52 TOTAL TO PRODUCE 47 55 62 52 34 250 MATERIAL LIST discription dye bath unit needed total needed 1. 1-17-W001-030 Classic wool Red MTR 1,3 325 2. 1-17-L001-099 Pocketing black MTR 0,3 75 3. 1-17-B124-099 Button 24" black PCS 3 750 4. 0-00-LA01-099 Woven Label PCS 1 250 5. 0-00-HA01-099 Hangtag+Buttonbag PCS 1 250 6. 0-00-CL01-099 Clipper PCS 1 250 7. 0-00-PO115-000 Polybag 1,5m PCS 1 250 1-17-W001-030 1-17-L001-099 NAME OF COMPANY: NAME OF THE PRODUCER: FABRIC SWATCH TECHNICAL DRAWING PRODUCTION ORDER: 1-17-001 DELIVERY DATE: LEVERING EX FACTORYDATE: DATUM PROD. START TECHNISCHE FICHE
3. COORDINEREN VAN ZENDING GRONDSTOFFEN NAAR PRODUCENTEN.
LEVERANCIERS PAKLIJST TECHNISCHE FICHE
VERDEELLIJST PER ARTIKEL OVERZICHT GRONDSTOFFEN PER PRODUCENT GRONDSTOF: 1-17-W001-030 Green Supplier: Ref. supplier: Manufacturer: Article: unit Needed Pieces Total Shipped Mopan 1-17-200-W001-030 M 1,3 250 325 Van Bockrijk 1-17-602-W001-030 M 2,2 115 253 Mobecon 1-17-405-W001-030 M 0,8 76 60,8 638,8 GRONDSTOF: 1-17-W001-045 Light Blue Supplier: Ref. supplier: Manufacturer: Article: unit Needed Pieces Total Shipped Mopan 1-17-200-W001-045 M 1,3 98 127,4 Mopan 1-17-202-W001-045 M 1,22 45 54,9 Mobecon 1-17-405-W001-045 M 0,8 30 24 206,3 GRONDSTOF: 1-17-W001-001 White Supplier: Ref. supplier: Manufacturer: Article: unit Needed Pieces Total Shipped Mobecon 1-17-405-W001-001 M 0,8 88 70,4 70,4 Art. 90895 - design 001 - col. #3 Bacci srl. Bacci srl. Art. 90895 - design 001 - col. #8 Bacci srl. Art. 90895 - design 001 - col. #1 DATE: GRONDSTOF: 1-17-W001-030 Green Supplier: Ref. supplier: Article: Color: Supplier: Ref. Supplier unit Total Shipped 1-17-W001-030 Grey Bacci Art. 90895 - design 001 - col. #3 M 325 1-17-W001-045 Light Blue Bacci Art. 90895 - design 001 - col. #8 M 182 1-17-W008-030 Grey Colombo Art. Julia design 9 - col. 04 M 102 1-17-W012-001 Black Puro Art. Baltimor col. 001 M 195 1-17-W024-001 Black Puro Art. Balthazar - design #4 - col. 001 M 120 1-17-V001-001 Black Pasorelli Art. Saglie - col. Nero M 220 1-17-V001-009 Grey Pasorelli Art. Saglia - col. Bianca M 60 1-17-B024-001 Black Union Knopff Art horn 074 - 24"- 00099 pcs. 1200 1-17-B032-001 Black Union Knopff Art horn 074 - 32"- 00099 pcs. 400 1-17-B038-001 Black Union Knopff Art horn 074 - 38"- 00099 pcs. 150 1-17-B024-008 Grey Union Knopff Art horn 074 - 24"- 00091 pcs. 1200 1-17-B032-008 Grey Union Knopff Art horn 074 - 32"- 00091 pcs. 400 1-17-B038-008 Grey Union Knopff Art horn 074 - 38"- 00091 pcs. 150 0-00-T001-000 Black label company Art. Hangtag 450*23 - 02 -001 pcs. 450 0-00-CL01-042 Black Mainetti Clipper 052 - black - logo #4 pcs 450 0-00-HO01-000 Mainetti Polybag 0,01 - logo #4 pcs 450 NAME OF COMPANY: NAME OF PRODUCER: MOPAN LIST OF MATERIAL ISSUE Bacci srl. Art. 90895 - design 001 - col. #3
4. SOURCEN VAN NIEUWE FABRIKANTEN.
5. ONDERHOUD VAN GOEDE RELATIES MET FABRIKANTEN.
Fashion Production Fashion Lab, Antwerpen, 8-11-2016 frederiekballiere@balko.be
WHO WE ARE Family company 5 generations fashion experience Based in Waregem: logistics, QC, styling & patterns Short & Long term production facilities (Fully Owned) factories in Eastern Europe, Tunesia, Pakistan (JV), Bangladesh (JV) & China Focus on (denim & rtd) trousers & outerwear Technical know how, importance of a perfect fit Customers: brands & retailers (Fr/Be/NL/De) +- 2 million pces/yr
WHAT WE DO Customised fashion solutions from a to z: Styling Sampling Sourcing Fabrics (stocks) Trims Make Packing QC Logistics but not every customer outsources all of those steps :
HOW TO FIND THE BEST PRODUCTION SOLUTION?? *STARTING POINT: STYLING From a (modified) shopping and suppliers collection to your own design ! Anticipate: Talk with your production partner about the technical possibilities or potential practical issues about the prices (secure final price!) about the right fitting about the moqs (fabrics & accessories) and have this talk before you start to work out a collection: save a lot of time & money!
*PRODUCTION PROCESS: KEY QUESTIONS! 1. Sampling *Patterns by the production company OR by you? *How many samples? Sms? Prototype? PPS? *Sample yardage ordered by? 2. Sourcing (fabrics & (packing) accessories) *Fabrics: proposed & delivered by the supplier OR by you? (finished garment vs make) (Trousers = most of the time different from other items!) *Accessories (buttons, lining, ..) : proposed & delivered by the supplier OR by you? (Basics usually by supplier / personalised items by the brand) *Packing accessories (pricelabels, tags, ..): delivered by the supplier OR by you? ! Chose the right supplier: some suppliers offer full solutions, others only offer the make, and ask to deliver everythingsave money & time ! Talk with your producer about technical possibilities, practical issues, fitting, prices (alternatives!)
*PRODUCTION PROCESS: KEY QUESTIONS! 3. Make *Long term/Short term? Quantities? Price difference can be huge; quality level can remain! 4. Logistics *Transportation cost to/from production facilities, transportation cost from fabrics, import taxes.. * Packing instructions: make it easy on yourself! Flat packed (online!) or hanging? * Extra partner for handling & direct deliveries? Same logic as for the sourcing of fabrics: economy of scale makes a huge difference!
General tips & tricks Define your own way of working & then chose the right production partner Strategy: go for high end exclusivity or go for volume Outsourcing? Can be the answer for a startup, but also for brands/retailers willing to keep their focus on design, marketing & sales Go for a long term, respectful & honest relationship with your (production) partners
WWW.FFI.BE ONLINE KENNISLUIK MODEGIDS Incl lessons learned WWW.CLOSE-THE-LOOP.BE
UPCOMING EVENTS INFOSESSIE MERKEN, MODELLEN en OCTROOIEN 17/11 Leuven ADVIESDAGEN 25/11 Antwerpen, 9/12 Leuven SPREEKUREN - FFI Antwerpen 14/11 en 20/12 LAB INFLUENCER MARKETING 29/11 Antwerpen 2/12 Brussel 6/12 Gent FASHION TALKS November 2017- Antwerpen
STAY IN TOUCH FLANDERSFASHIONINSTITUTE FLANDERS_FASHION_INSTITUTE FFIANTWERP FFI.BE/NEWSLETTER

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Fashion lab productie

  • 2. 13.00: Productie in al zijn facetten, door Ann Collier, IVOC & Jo van Landeghem, Creamoda 14.00: Getuigenis, tips & tricks door Samira Lafkioui, productiemanager Raf Simons 14.30: Fabrikant Frederiek Balli竪re, Balko 15.00: Pauze Nicole Verhagen, DmeetM 15.20 - 17.20: MEET AND GREET met Belgian Designer Partners, in samenwerking met Creamoda. 1-op-1 gesprekken met coaches AGENDA
  • 3. Jo Vanlandeghem & Ann Collier Design <> Production
  • 4. Production Specific Technical specifications Technical drawing The right manufacturer The Tags Fibre names Care labels
  • 6. The world of the designer Production: specific
  • 7. The world of the fashion industry Production: specific
  • 8. The methodology Question: Do we leave everything to the good care of the manufacturer ? Or do we take the lead ? Options: A. I design the model myself and leave the rest to the manufacturer B. I design, make the first pattern and leave the rest to the manufacturer C. I design, make the first pattern, make the prototype and leave the rest to the manufacturer D. I buy from the manufacturers collection or I choose something exclusive Production: specific
  • 9. From idea to product The creative idea / the first sketch The development of the first pattern The first prototype The realization of the collection samples The size set samples The gold seal sample or reference sample for production Bulk production Production: specific
  • 10. Technical specifications Model/style BOM Technical drawing Technical instructions Measurements Technical specifications
  • 14. MATERIAL CARD FABRICS DESCRIPTION COMMENTS REF SUPPLIER SEE DETAILS MATERIAL N属 QUT WHERE COLOUR COMBO 1 COLOUR COMBO 2 COLOUR COMBO 3 COLOUR COMBO 4 COLOUR COMBO 5 SHELL 1 100% polyamide ribstop - acryliccoating 600mm Clear transparant coating Body, sleeves, pocketpintucks, pocketentries, outercollar, galoon interiorcollar, sleevepocket, inside pocket, waistgalloon on lining Orange 171462 TPX SHELL 2 100% polyester microfibre 2 layers Contrast galoon exterior collar, interior collar, half moon on lining Grey 171501 TPX SHELL 3 Nylon 190T coated 600mm Clear transparant coating Hood Grey 171501 TPX LINING 1 Mesh 100% polyester Body lining Grey 171501 TPX LINING 2 Nylon 190T Sleeves lining, pocketparts inset pockets, lining of exterior collar, intermediate collar Grey 171501 TPX ACCESSORIES DESCRIPTION COMMENTS REF SUPPLIER SEE DETAILS MATERIAL N属 QUT WHERE COLOUR COMBO 1 COLOUR COMBO 2 COLOUR COMBO 3 COLOUR COMBO 4 COLOUR COMBO 5 ZIPPER 1 Zipper Vislon 9mm 2-way open end Completelyplastic - ALSO SLIDER PLASTIC - grey teeth 1 Centre front zipper Orange / grey teeth / grey sliders ZIPPER 2 Zipper Vislon 6mm closed end Completelyplastic - ALSO SLIDER PLASTIC 2 2 bottom pockets Orange ZIPPER PULLER 1 Ribbon 10mm 4x12cm zipperslider Orange DRAWCORD 1 Elastic drawcord Hem hood Orange STOPPER 1 Cordstopper Drawcord hood Grey PIPING Reflectivepiping Chestseam, horizontal backseam, sleeves insets VELCRO 1 Velcro loop circle diameter 7cm left upperarm Orange VELCRO 2 Velcro 20mm Sleeves narrowing Orange VELCRO 3 Velcro 20mm Collar + hood Grey ELASTIC Elastic 20mm Bottomparthem sleeves LABELLING DESCRIPTION COMMENTS REF SUPPLIER SEE DETAILS MATERIAL N属 QUT WHERE COLOUR COMBO 1 COLOUR COMBO 2 COLOUR COMBO 3 COLOUR COMBO 4 COLOUR COMBO 5 PRINTED LABEL On satin white polyester : print SM See tabsheet details materials SIZE LABEL Sizelabel in the middle of the neck See tabsheet details materials CARE LABEL Woven care label See tabsheet details materials 1 In the left sideseam HANGTAG 1 Hang tag SM See tabsheet details materials EMBROIDERY 1 LES SAUVETEURS EN MER SNSM See tabsheet details materials In the middle of the back EMBROIDERY 2 LES SAUVETEURS EN MER SNSM See tabsheet details materials On right upperarm EMBROIDERY 3 Embroideredbadge See tabsheet details materials On left chest PACKING DESCRIPTION COMMENTS REF SUPPLIER SEE DETAILS MATERIAL N属 QUT WHERE COLOUR COMBO 1 COLOUR COMBO 2 COLOUR COMBO 3 COLOUR COMBO 4 COLOUR COMBO 5 POLYBAG MINIGRIP SILKPAPER STICKER STICKER BOX Technical specifications: BOM
  • 22. Stitch types ISO 4915 (international standard) Class 100 : chain stitches Class 200: hand stitches Class 300: Lockstitches Class 400: Multi-thread chain stitches Class 500: Overedge chain stiches Class 600: Covering chain stitches
  • 23. Seam types ISO 4916 (international standard) SS - Stapelnaad (Superimposed Seam) LS - Overlapnaad (Lapped Seam) BS - Gebonden naad (Bounded Seam) FS - Platte naad (Flat Seam)
  • 27. simplicitynewlook.com Body measurements 1 Total length 2 chest width = bust 4 Waist 5 Waist height 6 Hip 7 neck shoulder - armlength
  • 29. The right manufacturer Good to know Start prospecting before the season starts - first come, first served The time factor is utterly important. Be on time, respecting the right time zone Summer collection (November until February) Winter collection (June until August) Select a supplier according to your product needs eg. Tricot machinery tricot Better a few models / week than all at once
  • 30. The right manufacturer Creamoda & its members Belgian Designer Partners Manufacturers are willing to work on the realization of the collection(s) of starters and to do an additional effort Meet & Greet events Creamoda website contains a substantial list of Belgian manufacturers Advantages of production with a Belgian partner: Coaching & advise Visit, control & corrections Small orders
  • 31. The right manufacturer Questions to ask Working with starters ? Product types ? Volume big or small orders ? Quality level ? Price level ? Are modifications possible ? Capacity booking ? Timing ? Terms of delivery ? Payment terms ? Social compliance ? Product Safety ? Product testing ? Sustainable manufacturing ?
  • 32. The right manufacturer Price & conscious choice Basic Model: if you have a good basic fit re-use it . With some minor modifications = can be less expensive than making a completely new one. Careful with Fabric Consumption (draperies) Manual finishing or machine finishing. Bio / Eco materials and finishing MOQ Minimum order quantities
  • 33. Remember A good preparation makes half of the work A clear communication = crucial ( Technical file ) A clear quality sketch sometimes says more than words Provide a sufficient amount of fabrics and additionals ( buttons can get broken in the factory) Think about your labels, composition, brand, size, care instructions
  • 34. THE TAGS Fibre composition Care instructions
  • 36. EU-Regulation No 1007/2011 from 27/09/2011 Prescribes the way the fibre composition of products needs to be indicated by means of a label/marking in order to protect the needs of the customer Textile products may only placed on the EU market when they comply with the directives of that regulation The full name needs to be used: cotton, acrylic, polyester, http://eur-lex.europa.eu/LexUriServ/LexUriServ.do?uri= OJ:L:2011:272:0001:0064:EN:PDF
  • 37. EU-Regulation No 1007/2011 from 27/09/2011 Article 12: extra notice contains non-textile parts of animal origin Percentage does not matter and the animal species does not need to be specified IMPORTANT: even a leather label on a textile product needs to be mentioned!
  • 38. Fibre composition Legally obliged in all European countries for all textile products Textile product = a product min. 80% by weight made out of textile fibres Needs to be written in the national language Abbreviations are not allowed Written in descending order eg. 50% cotton 40% wool 10% nylon
  • 39. Fibre names Fibre names are determined by law only Official fibre name (generic name) = NOT a trademark or marketing name Not related to the manufacturer Eg. Coolmax, Lycra, Tervira, Tencel, Danufil...are not generic fibre names In principle there is only 1 generic name There is 1 exception: polyamide and nylon are synonyms Flax and Linen can both be used
  • 40. The Care label according ISO 3758:2005
  • 41. The Care label The care label is not abligated by law in the EU member states however: Obligated use of symbols in Austria Obligated use of symbols or text in Italy The symbols indicate maximum resistance to care and laundring The pictograms are the property of GINETEX. ETITEX owns the rights for Belgium and Luxemburg
  • 42. The Care label Use the symbols with care Respect the sequence of the symbols When using the symbols, you need to pay a fee to Etitex http://www.etitex.be Continuous text = allowed but needs to be written in the national language
  • 44. (Standard) contract Framework agreement General agreement with rights and obligations Few changes needed Individual contract Further comments and specifications on the framework agreement Deviations from the framework agreement A lot of modifications can be made Regular renewal/modification is possible, but never without signing the framework agreement first
  • 45. The framework agreement Definitions Subject Price & payment Rights and obligations of both parties (Intellectual) property Data confidentiality Materials, conformity of the finishing process and defaults Delays for finishing and delivery Duration and resiliation of the contract Legislation applicable and appropriate court
  • 46. The individual contract For 1 season (1 collection) One sheet per model Sketch + details of the sketch Description of the confection assignment Patterns, prototype, purchase of the garments, preparation of the production and the production itself Prices, terms and places of delivery Other agreements Detailed description of the production assignment Sizes and numbers per size (models/finishings)
  • 47. Availability of the contract In Dutch / French / English On request available at : Creamoda Tailor-made modifications are possible for members of the federation
  • 50. PRODUCTIE MANAGER 1. Planning en deadlines van productie bepalen. 2. Prijzen en kwaliteit garanderen. 3. Verantwoordelijk vanaf levering van de stoffen & trims tot levering van het afgewerkt kledingstuk. 4. Voortdurend op zoek naar nieuwe fabrikanten en werkmethodes om efficienter en beter resultaten te boeken. 5. De relaties met de producenten onderhouden.
  • 52. TIJDSLIJN GRONDSTOFFEN: - VAN AANKOOP TOT PRODUCENT: 12-16 WEKEN PRODUCTIE: - VAN LANCEREN TOT WAREHOUSE: 16-26 WEKEN - VAN LEVERING GRONDSTOF TOT WAREHOUSE: 10-16 WEKEN
  • 54. CODE MAKEN SEIZOEN JAAR MODEL HOOFDSTOF KLEUR 1 = ZOMER 2 = WINTER 16 100, 101, 102 = HEMDEN 200, 201, 202, = BROEKEN ... NAAM GEVEN WHITE BLACK RED SS AW 2016 PALM, PECAN, = PANTS TUPELO, TANOAK,.. = T-SHIRTS . 1000, 1001, 1002, .. = WOL 2000, 2001, 2002, .. = KATOEN 001-010 = WITTE KL. 011-019 = BLAUWE 020-029 = GROEN S W 016 001-019 = KATOEN 020-039 = WOL VOORBEELD: 1-16-100-DAZY-WHITE / SS2016-PALM-1000-019 / S16-200-20001-GROEN
  • 55. HOE MAKEN WE ONZE PRIJS Grondstoffen = (aankoopprijs * verbruik) + transportkost van de goederen. DIENSTEN = gradatie, ontwikkelingskost, print, washing, plissage, Transportkosten, reiskosten en logistiek. Commissies. Packaging. **Maakloon. = (SUM) KOSTPRIJS ** Maakloon: A) CMT = (CUT & MAKE & TRIM) B) CM = (CUT & MAKE)
  • 56. KWALITEIT GARANDEREN Alvorens productie te starten controleren we volgende zaken: Pasvorm / maat. Afwerking binnen en buiten. Hoe wordt het kledingstuk opgestuurd? Hangend? In een doos? Verder: Stoffen op: kleur, was, krimp, opwollen, Prints, borduursels, applicaties, ... Testen op wash, dry clean, ... Deze info is nodig om te beslissen wat er op het wash&care label komt.
  • 57. PRODUCTIE BON SEASON : SRING /SUMMER ARTICLE: 1-17-200-W001-030 DESCRIPTION : CLASSIC PANT SIZE 44 46 48 50 52 TOTAL TO PRODUCE 47 55 62 52 34 250 MATERIAL LIST discription dye bath unit needed total needed 1. 1-17-W001-030 Classic wool Red MTR 1,3 325 2. 1-17-L001-099 Pocketing black MTR 0,3 75 3. 1-17-B124-099 Button 24" black PCS 3 750 4. 0-00-LA01-099 Woven Label PCS 1 250 5. 0-00-HA01-099 Hangtag+Buttonbag PCS 1 250 6. 0-00-CL01-099 Clipper PCS 1 250 7. 0-00-PO115-000 Polybag 1,5m PCS 1 250 1-17-W001-030 1-17-L001-099 NAME OF COMPANY: NAME OF THE PRODUCER: FABRIC SWATCH TECHNICAL DRAWING PRODUCTION ORDER: 1-17-001 DELIVERY DATE: LEVERING EX FACTORYDATE: DATUM PROD. START TECHNISCHE FICHE
  • 60. VERDEELLIJST PER ARTIKEL OVERZICHT GRONDSTOFFEN PER PRODUCENT GRONDSTOF: 1-17-W001-030 Green Supplier: Ref. supplier: Manufacturer: Article: unit Needed Pieces Total Shipped Mopan 1-17-200-W001-030 M 1,3 250 325 Van Bockrijk 1-17-602-W001-030 M 2,2 115 253 Mobecon 1-17-405-W001-030 M 0,8 76 60,8 638,8 GRONDSTOF: 1-17-W001-045 Light Blue Supplier: Ref. supplier: Manufacturer: Article: unit Needed Pieces Total Shipped Mopan 1-17-200-W001-045 M 1,3 98 127,4 Mopan 1-17-202-W001-045 M 1,22 45 54,9 Mobecon 1-17-405-W001-045 M 0,8 30 24 206,3 GRONDSTOF: 1-17-W001-001 White Supplier: Ref. supplier: Manufacturer: Article: unit Needed Pieces Total Shipped Mobecon 1-17-405-W001-001 M 0,8 88 70,4 70,4 Art. 90895 - design 001 - col. #3 Bacci srl. Bacci srl. Art. 90895 - design 001 - col. #8 Bacci srl. Art. 90895 - design 001 - col. #1 DATE: GRONDSTOF: 1-17-W001-030 Green Supplier: Ref. supplier: Article: Color: Supplier: Ref. Supplier unit Total Shipped 1-17-W001-030 Grey Bacci Art. 90895 - design 001 - col. #3 M 325 1-17-W001-045 Light Blue Bacci Art. 90895 - design 001 - col. #8 M 182 1-17-W008-030 Grey Colombo Art. Julia design 9 - col. 04 M 102 1-17-W012-001 Black Puro Art. Baltimor col. 001 M 195 1-17-W024-001 Black Puro Art. Balthazar - design #4 - col. 001 M 120 1-17-V001-001 Black Pasorelli Art. Saglie - col. Nero M 220 1-17-V001-009 Grey Pasorelli Art. Saglia - col. Bianca M 60 1-17-B024-001 Black Union Knopff Art horn 074 - 24"- 00099 pcs. 1200 1-17-B032-001 Black Union Knopff Art horn 074 - 32"- 00099 pcs. 400 1-17-B038-001 Black Union Knopff Art horn 074 - 38"- 00099 pcs. 150 1-17-B024-008 Grey Union Knopff Art horn 074 - 24"- 00091 pcs. 1200 1-17-B032-008 Grey Union Knopff Art horn 074 - 32"- 00091 pcs. 400 1-17-B038-008 Grey Union Knopff Art horn 074 - 38"- 00091 pcs. 150 0-00-T001-000 Black label company Art. Hangtag 450*23 - 02 -001 pcs. 450 0-00-CL01-042 Black Mainetti Clipper 052 - black - logo #4 pcs 450 0-00-HO01-000 Mainetti Polybag 0,01 - logo #4 pcs 450 NAME OF COMPANY: NAME OF PRODUCER: MOPAN LIST OF MATERIAL ISSUE Bacci srl. Art. 90895 - design 001 - col. #3
  • 64. WHO WE ARE Family company 5 generations fashion experience Based in Waregem: logistics, QC, styling & patterns Short & Long term production facilities (Fully Owned) factories in Eastern Europe, Tunesia, Pakistan (JV), Bangladesh (JV) & China Focus on (denim & rtd) trousers & outerwear Technical know how, importance of a perfect fit Customers: brands & retailers (Fr/Be/NL/De) +- 2 million pces/yr
  • 65. WHAT WE DO Customised fashion solutions from a to z: Styling Sampling Sourcing Fabrics (stocks) Trims Make Packing QC Logistics but not every customer outsources all of those steps :
  • 66. HOW TO FIND THE BEST PRODUCTION SOLUTION?? *STARTING POINT: STYLING From a (modified) shopping and suppliers collection to your own design ! Anticipate: Talk with your production partner about the technical possibilities or potential practical issues about the prices (secure final price!) about the right fitting about the moqs (fabrics & accessories) and have this talk before you start to work out a collection: save a lot of time & money!
  • 67. *PRODUCTION PROCESS: KEY QUESTIONS! 1. Sampling *Patterns by the production company OR by you? *How many samples? Sms? Prototype? PPS? *Sample yardage ordered by? 2. Sourcing (fabrics & (packing) accessories) *Fabrics: proposed & delivered by the supplier OR by you? (finished garment vs make) (Trousers = most of the time different from other items!) *Accessories (buttons, lining, ..) : proposed & delivered by the supplier OR by you? (Basics usually by supplier / personalised items by the brand) *Packing accessories (pricelabels, tags, ..): delivered by the supplier OR by you? ! Chose the right supplier: some suppliers offer full solutions, others only offer the make, and ask to deliver everythingsave money & time ! Talk with your producer about technical possibilities, practical issues, fitting, prices (alternatives!)
  • 68. *PRODUCTION PROCESS: KEY QUESTIONS! 3. Make *Long term/Short term? Quantities? Price difference can be huge; quality level can remain! 4. Logistics *Transportation cost to/from production facilities, transportation cost from fabrics, import taxes.. * Packing instructions: make it easy on yourself! Flat packed (online!) or hanging? * Extra partner for handling & direct deliveries? Same logic as for the sourcing of fabrics: economy of scale makes a huge difference!
  • 69. General tips & tricks Define your own way of working & then chose the right production partner Strategy: go for high end exclusivity or go for volume Outsourcing? Can be the answer for a startup, but also for brands/retailers willing to keep their focus on design, marketing & sales Go for a long term, respectful & honest relationship with your (production) partners
  • 70. WWW.FFI.BE ONLINE KENNISLUIK MODEGIDS Incl lessons learned WWW.CLOSE-THE-LOOP.BE
  • 71. UPCOMING EVENTS INFOSESSIE MERKEN, MODELLEN en OCTROOIEN 17/11 Leuven ADVIESDAGEN 25/11 Antwerpen, 9/12 Leuven SPREEKUREN - FFI Antwerpen 14/11 en 20/12 LAB INFLUENCER MARKETING 29/11 Antwerpen 2/12 Brussel 6/12 Gent FASHION TALKS November 2017- Antwerpen