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Japonisme & Orientalism FASHION

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The influence of Japonisme and Orientalism in the Western world What is Japonisme ? What is Orientalism ?

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Student Name: LR Course: History Of Costume 2
? First described by French art critic and collector Philippe Burty, it¡¯s the study of Japanese art and artistic talent, Japonism affected fine arts, sculpture, architecture, performing arts and decorative arts throughout Western culture, The term is used particularly to refer to Japanese influence on European art, especially in impressionism.
? - In the 19th century, a trend for the Orient appeared. The artists were inspired by its luxury, its mystery and the supernatural that surrounded this part of the world. But this new craze for Orientalism was also the reflection of several historical events that occurred during that era.
Japonisme & Orientalism FASHION
Japonisme & Orientalism FASHION
Japonisme & Orientalism FASHION
P A T T E R N S
Kimono Culture Matsu Juji Yabane Genjiguruma Nippon textiles take on deeper dimensions of significance due to their rich iconography. Vintage kimono and obi are powerful inspiration sources for pattern design. Among the abstract motifs we highlight shippo (overlapping circle pattern), the hemp leaf pattern made of hexagrams, tatewaku (vertical curvilinear lines which bulge and narrow), yabane (arrow feather), genjiguruma (wheel circles), matsu (pin tree), yamagata (mountain patterned wavy horizontal lines), shima-mokko stripes and juji crosses. Bold and strong are the ry?sui (flowing water)
Yuzen-shi Nao Honda Studio Botan Kiku Foil Print Tachibana The traditional Japanese floral iconography features stylized to figurative tsubaki /(camellias), tachibana (mandarin florals), ume / susino (plum blossoms), kiku (chrysanthemums), botan (peonies) and many other bouquets. At Kyoto based Kimura Senshow studio, where precious hand-painted Kyo-yuzen kimonos are still produced manually; patterns are made to stand out with gold to silver leaf applications (kinsai process) or sophisticated embroideries.
Hana asagi Sh¨­j¨­hi (The Classic Palette) Kihada
Matthew Ames Kimono Kool Victor Dzenk Stylesight!s futurist report ORIENTOLOGIES announced the strong culture crossover between the East and West. The adaptation of the kimono shape and obi belt into international fashion apparel are only two cases in point. Partially due to increasing globalization of the market place, authentic Japanese silhouettes, textiles and design are held in extremely high regard by designers worldwide. The secret of that esteem lies in the original ideas and shapes, refined taste and style, exceptional quality, and last, but not least unique material expertise with textile engineering that exists only in Japan.
H. Amami - Oshima Silk Pongee Silk Sayaori Sha Silk Silk Brocade It takes approximately 3000 silkworm cocoons to make 13 meters of authentic Chirimen white kimono silk fabric. Traditionally woven in strips of roughly 0.38 x 13m, these textiles inhabit a world of their own. Tadashi Maruyama, a kimono designer, loves to enhance these silks with foil prints, spreading ash on top of the starch, finishing with a roller tanning process which brings out the power of these fabrics. An example of contemporary kimono silk is Honba Amami-Oshima pongee (woven in refined silk yarn instead of floss), characterized by splash patterns and subdued coloring, produced by doro-zome dyeing technique.
Tokyo Cotton Fabric Library Chemical Lace Dissolving Fabric Iwanaka Embroidered Cotton France and Switzerland may be top lace producers, but Japan develops interesting openworks as well. The Tokyo headquartered Cotton Fabric Library boost a wealth of Japanese made vintage lace samples, which cannot be replicated at present due to lost techniques and lack in craftsman. Stunning examples of embroidered lace (imagine Broderie Anglaise with a twist) are stocked in this archive. Mass-market chemical laces show a contemporary take on openwork textiles or are made by dissolving a fabric to draw out a stunning abstract or floral pattern.
Maurizio Gallante Lasabui Kyoto Kanoko Shibori Joint Bishu Brand Shibori Dyeing Shibori resist dyeing is a handmade Japanese textile art dating back to the 8th century, immensely varied in its techniques, yet always based on folding, crumpling, stitching, pleating or plucking and twisting of a fabric. Often incorrectly labeled as tie-dye, authentic Japanese shibori is a rare textile. The labor-intensive Government Certified Traditional Craft of Japan continues to influence international designers and textile / print studios to create these blurry-edged pattern designs. Italian Lasabui studio and Maurizio Gallante fashion designer are just two examples.
Embroidered Obi Koi Fish Tsuru Gru Dragonfly Tsuru Gru ¡°The meaning of patterns has been lost in time, and their being made into symbols and designs is regrettable,¡± states Genbei Yamaguchi, President of Kondaya Genbei ¨C authentic kimono producer. The refined dragonfly design went from being a symbol of abundant harvest to one of victory in ancient times. Currently the dragonfly is widely employed in prints and graphics but its symbolism is lost. The gru and Koi fish (prosperity of all kinds) is another common pattern in placement prints and embroidery. Also dragons, phoenix, mythological creatures, crane birds and tortoise (symbols for felicity and long life) are valuable inspirations.
EXAGGERATED LAVISHNESS
oshiroi
Traditionally, women not only put makeup on their face but on their ears, the nape of their neck, and chest.
Japonisme & Orientalism FASHION
Japonisme & Orientalism FASHION
Origami Paper Folding Nuno Jessica Preston Kyoko Nagasawa Anna Sagstrom The art of paper folding inspires to create enticing sculptural materials, print patterns and 3D textiles. A pioneer is the origami pleats polyester designed by Reiko Sugo for Nuno in 1997. The technology relies on a heat- setting process, fixing folded and dyed origami-like pleats. Kevin Saer Leong launched the Origami clothing label featuring puffer vests in Tyvek, printed with origami folding instructions. UK textile designer Jessica Preston creates intricate textiles exploring the challenges of origami inspired-techniques. Nippon designer Kyoko
Japonisme & Orientalism FASHION
Japonisme & Orientalism FASHION
Japonisme & Orientalism FASHION
? Orientalism is a term used by art historians and literary and cultural studies scholars for the imitation or depiction of aspects in the Eastern world. ? Imitation or depiction of aspects of Eastern cultures in the West by writers, designers and artists. ? Refers to artists in the 19th and 20th centuries who used artistic elements derived from their travels to non-European countries in North Africa and Western Asia, as well as india.
? Eccentric ? Sensual ? Exotic ? Uncivilized
? Orientalism displays feminine penetrability and spine flexibility, Its progress and value are judged in terms of comparison to the West. Jean-L¨¦on G¨¦r?me Moorish Bath / 1870 Delacroix Death of Sardanapalus / 1827 -Eccentric -Sensual -Exotic -Uncivilized
? The Oriental man: depicted as feminine, weak, yet dangerous, and firm. ? The Oriental woman: depicted as eager to be dominated, strikingly exotic, passive and submissive.
Gentile Bellini, Sultan Mehmed II, 1480 Saada, the Wife of Abraham Benchimol, and Preciada, One of Their Daughters
Japonisme & Orientalism FASHION
? pantaloons, turbans, and and geishas in exotic kimono, Simple but exotic headgear ? Shimmering and vivid colors.
Japonisme & Orientalism FASHION
Japonisme & Orientalism FASHION
? https://www.vanderbilt.edu/olli/class- materials/Class_ºÝºÝߣs_20th_century_part1.pdf ? https://www.kci.or.jp/research/dresstudy/pdf/e_Fukai_Japonism_in_Fashion.pdf ? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4QYrAqrpshw ? https://www.nippon.com/en/views/b02602/the-fair-face-of-japanese-beauty.html ? https://fashion-history.lovetoknow.com/fashion-history-eras/definition-orientalism

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Japonisme & Orientalism FASHION

  • 1. Student Name: LR Course: History Of Costume 2
  • 2. ? First described by French art critic and collector Philippe Burty, it¡¯s the study of Japanese art and artistic talent, Japonism affected fine arts, sculpture, architecture, performing arts and decorative arts throughout Western culture, The term is used particularly to refer to Japanese influence on European art, especially in impressionism.
  • 3. ? - In the 19th century, a trend for the Orient appeared. The artists were inspired by its luxury, its mystery and the supernatural that surrounded this part of the world. But this new craze for Orientalism was also the reflection of several historical events that occurred during that era.
  • 8. Kimono Culture Matsu Juji Yabane Genjiguruma Nippon textiles take on deeper dimensions of significance due to their rich iconography. Vintage kimono and obi are powerful inspiration sources for pattern design. Among the abstract motifs we highlight shippo (overlapping circle pattern), the hemp leaf pattern made of hexagrams, tatewaku (vertical curvilinear lines which bulge and narrow), yabane (arrow feather), genjiguruma (wheel circles), matsu (pin tree), yamagata (mountain patterned wavy horizontal lines), shima-mokko stripes and juji crosses. Bold and strong are the ry?sui (flowing water)
  • 9. Yuzen-shi Nao Honda Studio Botan Kiku Foil Print Tachibana The traditional Japanese floral iconography features stylized to figurative tsubaki /(camellias), tachibana (mandarin florals), ume / susino (plum blossoms), kiku (chrysanthemums), botan (peonies) and many other bouquets. At Kyoto based Kimura Senshow studio, where precious hand-painted Kyo-yuzen kimonos are still produced manually; patterns are made to stand out with gold to silver leaf applications (kinsai process) or sophisticated embroideries.
  • 11. Matthew Ames Kimono Kool Victor Dzenk Stylesight!s futurist report ORIENTOLOGIES announced the strong culture crossover between the East and West. The adaptation of the kimono shape and obi belt into international fashion apparel are only two cases in point. Partially due to increasing globalization of the market place, authentic Japanese silhouettes, textiles and design are held in extremely high regard by designers worldwide. The secret of that esteem lies in the original ideas and shapes, refined taste and style, exceptional quality, and last, but not least unique material expertise with textile engineering that exists only in Japan.
  • 12. H. Amami - Oshima Silk Pongee Silk Sayaori Sha Silk Silk Brocade It takes approximately 3000 silkworm cocoons to make 13 meters of authentic Chirimen white kimono silk fabric. Traditionally woven in strips of roughly 0.38 x 13m, these textiles inhabit a world of their own. Tadashi Maruyama, a kimono designer, loves to enhance these silks with foil prints, spreading ash on top of the starch, finishing with a roller tanning process which brings out the power of these fabrics. An example of contemporary kimono silk is Honba Amami-Oshima pongee (woven in refined silk yarn instead of floss), characterized by splash patterns and subdued coloring, produced by doro-zome dyeing technique.
  • 13. Tokyo Cotton Fabric Library Chemical Lace Dissolving Fabric Iwanaka Embroidered Cotton France and Switzerland may be top lace producers, but Japan develops interesting openworks as well. The Tokyo headquartered Cotton Fabric Library boost a wealth of Japanese made vintage lace samples, which cannot be replicated at present due to lost techniques and lack in craftsman. Stunning examples of embroidered lace (imagine Broderie Anglaise with a twist) are stocked in this archive. Mass-market chemical laces show a contemporary take on openwork textiles or are made by dissolving a fabric to draw out a stunning abstract or floral pattern.
  • 14. Maurizio Gallante Lasabui Kyoto Kanoko Shibori Joint Bishu Brand Shibori Dyeing Shibori resist dyeing is a handmade Japanese textile art dating back to the 8th century, immensely varied in its techniques, yet always based on folding, crumpling, stitching, pleating or plucking and twisting of a fabric. Often incorrectly labeled as tie-dye, authentic Japanese shibori is a rare textile. The labor-intensive Government Certified Traditional Craft of Japan continues to influence international designers and textile / print studios to create these blurry-edged pattern designs. Italian Lasabui studio and Maurizio Gallante fashion designer are just two examples.
  • 15. Embroidered Obi Koi Fish Tsuru Gru Dragonfly Tsuru Gru ¡°The meaning of patterns has been lost in time, and their being made into symbols and designs is regrettable,¡± states Genbei Yamaguchi, President of Kondaya Genbei ¨C authentic kimono producer. The refined dragonfly design went from being a symbol of abundant harvest to one of victory in ancient times. Currently the dragonfly is widely employed in prints and graphics but its symbolism is lost. The gru and Koi fish (prosperity of all kinds) is another common pattern in placement prints and embroidery. Also dragons, phoenix, mythological creatures, crane birds and tortoise (symbols for felicity and long life) are valuable inspirations.
  • 18. Traditionally, women not only put makeup on their face but on their ears, the nape of their neck, and chest.
  • 21. Origami Paper Folding Nuno Jessica Preston Kyoko Nagasawa Anna Sagstrom The art of paper folding inspires to create enticing sculptural materials, print patterns and 3D textiles. A pioneer is the origami pleats polyester designed by Reiko Sugo for Nuno in 1997. The technology relies on a heat- setting process, fixing folded and dyed origami-like pleats. Kevin Saer Leong launched the Origami clothing label featuring puffer vests in Tyvek, printed with origami folding instructions. UK textile designer Jessica Preston creates intricate textiles exploring the challenges of origami inspired-techniques. Nippon designer Kyoko
  • 25. ? Orientalism is a term used by art historians and literary and cultural studies scholars for the imitation or depiction of aspects in the Eastern world. ? Imitation or depiction of aspects of Eastern cultures in the West by writers, designers and artists. ? Refers to artists in the 19th and 20th centuries who used artistic elements derived from their travels to non-European countries in North Africa and Western Asia, as well as india.
  • 26. ? Eccentric ? Sensual ? Exotic ? Uncivilized
  • 27. ? Orientalism displays feminine penetrability and spine flexibility, Its progress and value are judged in terms of comparison to the West. Jean-L¨¦on G¨¦r?me Moorish Bath / 1870 Delacroix Death of Sardanapalus / 1827 -Eccentric -Sensual -Exotic -Uncivilized
  • 28. ? The Oriental man: depicted as feminine, weak, yet dangerous, and firm. ? The Oriental woman: depicted as eager to be dominated, strikingly exotic, passive and submissive.
  • 29. Gentile Bellini, Sultan Mehmed II, 1480 Saada, the Wife of Abraham Benchimol, and Preciada, One of Their Daughters
  • 31. ? pantaloons, turbans, and and geishas in exotic kimono, Simple but exotic headgear ? Shimmering and vivid colors.
  • 34. ? https://www.vanderbilt.edu/olli/class- materials/Class_ºÝºÝߣs_20th_century_part1.pdf ? https://www.kci.or.jp/research/dresstudy/pdf/e_Fukai_Japonism_in_Fashion.pdf ? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4QYrAqrpshw ? https://www.nippon.com/en/views/b02602/the-fair-face-of-japanese-beauty.html ? https://fashion-history.lovetoknow.com/fashion-history-eras/definition-orientalism