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Mastey Hair Color Certification - Advanced Formulations

Erick Calderon
Erick Calderon

Hair Color Education program for www.masteyhaircolor.com Focuses on Advanced Formulation techniques and color mixing.

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MASTEYTEINTURE Color Formulations
THERE ARE PLENTY OF WRONG FORMULAS
THERE IS NO RIGHT FORMULA
DIFFERENT PEOPLE Different Formulas
CONSULTATION
NATURAL LEVEL => DESIRED LEVEL RPC = % GRAY = NEEDED LIFT = ADDITIONALTONE= RPC = RED % GRAY = 25% NEEDED LIFT = 3 LEVELS ADDITIONALTONE= PURPLE
Mastey Hair Color Is Not Matte Or Translucent It Is Re鍖ective Color Like Natural Hair Color LEVELS Natural Hair Levels
As level rises so does alkalinity Water Conditioners Alkaline Agent Pigment
LEVEL 6 WILL LIFT MORE THAN A LEVEL 5
MORE LIFT = MORE RPC
As level rises amount of Pigment Decreases Water Conditioners Alkaline Agent Pigment
LEVEL 9 HAS MORE PIGMENT THAN A LEVEL 11
MORE PIGMENT = BETTER COVERAGE &TONING
Mastey Hair Color Certification - Advanced Formulations
60VOLUME HAS MORE LIFT THAN 10VOLUME
Mastey Hair Color Certification - Advanced Formulations
10VOLUME DEPOSITS BETTER THAN 60VOLUME
REMAINING PIGMENT
% OF GRAY
Mastey Hair Color Certification - Advanced Formulations
DESIRED TONAL VALUE
NATURAL LEVEL => DESIRED LEVEL RPC = % GRAY = NEEDED LIFT = ADDITIONALTONE= RPC = RED % GRAY = 25% NEEDED LIFT = 3 LEVELS ADDITIONALTONE= PURPLE
Mastey Hair Color Certification - Advanced Formulations
Mastey Hair Color Certification - Advanced Formulations
Tones & Bases 24 pre mixed tonal options
Color Tones Numbers Letters & Words
Mastey Hair Color Certification - Advanced Formulations
Mastey Hair Color Certification - Advanced Formulations
Mastey Hair Color Certification - Advanced Formulations
Mastey Hair Color Certification - Advanced Formulations
AMPLIFIERS Oxidative Tints
07 => COOL NEUTRAL + BLUE Used to enhance darker shades or neutralize lighter shades
37 => YELLOW + BLUE = GREEN Used to neutralize REDS AND ORANGES
22 => VIOLET + VIOLET Used to enhance dark shades or neutralize yellows in light shades
44 => COPPER + COPPER Used to enhance or introduce coper into a shade
64 => RED + COPPER Used to enhance or introduce red copper into a shade
66 => RED + RED Used to enhance or introduce red into a shade
67 => RED + BLUE Used to enhance or introduce red cherry into a shade
33 => GOLD + GOLD Used to enhance or introduce gold into a shade
How to use Amplifiers For Vibrancy For Toning
How much do I use 7/8 Base Shade + 1/8 Ampli鍖er = Toning While Lifting 3/4 Base Shade + 1/4 Ampli鍖er = More Depth + Little Tone 1/2 Base Shade + 1/2 Ampli鍖er = More Tone + Less Depth 1/4 Base Shade + 3/4 Ampli鍖er = Mostly Tone + Little Depth
When Should I use Amplifiers Depositing => To add tone Lifting 1 Level=> minimal RPC / add to enhance tone Lifting 2 Levels => RPC Medium / Use to enhance or counteract Lifting 3 + Levels => RPC Lots / Use to enhance or counteract
Color Formulations for Vibrancy Black & Dark Browns Use 07 or 22 to add a Blue or Violet tone to your blacks. this gives you a more beautiful richer black as opposed to a 鍖at black. 1 part 1.07 + 1 part 07 + 10 Volume 1 part 1.07 + 1 part 22 + 10 Volume
Color Formulations for Vibrancy Reds Use 64, 66 and 67 with red shades to add intensity to existing red shades Use higher levels of peroxide to expose more underlying pigment and use that to intensify a result. 1 part 7.6 + 1 part 66 + 30 Volume + HEAT (optional)
Color Formulations for Vibrancy Coppers Use 44 and 64 with copper shades to create richer brighter copper results. Use higher levels of peroxide to expose more underlying pigment and use that natural remaining pigment to enhance the copper result. 1 part 8.64 + 1 part 64 + 30 Volume + HEAT (optional)
Color Formulations for Toning When Lifting Adding 37 green, 22 violet or 07 blue, or a combination of them into a formula, can help you to counteract underlying pigment as you are lifting.
Classic Formulation: Highlights On Levels 6 and bellow: Add 37 Green ampli鍖er to your lifting formula 11.2 + 37 + 60 Volume
Classic Formulation: Highlights On Levels 7 and higher: Add 07 BLUE Ampli鍖er to your lifting formula 11.2 + 07 + 60 Volume
For more control Mix 07 and 37 to create a more blue green when counteracting. Others like Violet pigment so they use 22 instead of 07 or a mixture of 07 & 22 in their high lift formulas. Classic Formulation: Highlights
AMPLIFIERS For best results use with a base tone that already has the desired tone: 4.6 + 66 The more ampli鍖er you put into a formula the more it a鍖ects the lift of the shade in that formula 11.2 + 07 lifts less than just using 11.2
PERCENTAGES MAKE A DIFFERENCE 1 1/2 oz of 6.6 + 1/2 oz of 66 IS NOT EQUALTO 1/2 oz of 6.6 + 1/1/2 oz of 66
SIMPLE FORMULATION BREAKDOWN 4.3 => 4.0 + 33
SIMPLE FORMULATION BREAKDOWN The more 33 you add the more gold in your formula The more gold the more warmth you create. To add more warmth or gold to a level 4 gold (4.3): 4.3 + 33
TRICKIER FORMULATION BREAKDOWN 4.65 = 4.6 + 4.5 or 4.65 = 4.6 + 33 + 22 + 66
ADDING MOREVIOLETTO 4.65 4.65 + 22
COLOR FORMULATION Its Like Cooking!
NEUTRAL = BROWN Blue + Red + Yellow = Brown
NEUTRAL = BROWN Orange + Purple + Green = Brown
YOU ARE ALWAYS MAKING BROWN! Make Brown then AddTone
STARTING LEVEL => DESIRED LEVEL FORMULA LEVEL 4.0 10VOLUME AMPLIFIER: NONE START LEVEL: 5 DESIRED LEVEL: 4 RPC = NONE % GRAY = 0% NEEDED LIFT = 0 LEVELS ADDITIONALTONE= NONE
STARTING LEVEL => DESIRED LEVEL FORMULA LEVEL 3.0 10VOLUME AMPLIFIER: 07 + 22 START LEVEL: 5 DESIRED LEVEL: 3 RPC = NONE % GRAY = 0% NEEDED LIFT = 0 LEVELS ADDITIONALTONE= BLUE/PURPLE
STARTING LEVEL => DESIRED LEVEL FORMULA LEVEL 6.56 TO HELP GRAY: 6.3 20 OR 30VOLUME AMPLIFIER: 67 START LEVEL: 4 DESIRED LEVEL: 6 RPC = RED % GRAY = 25% NEEDED LIFT = 3 LEVELS ADDITIONALTONE= PURPLE
STARTING LEVEL => DESIRED LEVEL FORMULA LEVEL 8.0 30 OR 40VOLUME AMPLIFIER: 07 OR 07 +22 OR 07+37 START LEVEL:5 DESIRED LEVEL: 8 RPC =YELLOW/ORANGE % GRAY = 0% NEEDED LIFT = 3 LEVELS ADDITIONALTONE= NEUTRAL
STARTING LEVEL => DESIRED LEVEL FORMULA LEVEL 11.2 60VOLUME AMPLIFIER: 07 OR 07 +22 OR 07+37 TONE WITH 9.2 DEMI START LEVEL:7 DESIRED LEVEL: 11 RPC =YELLOW % GRAY = 0% NEEDED LIFT = 4 LEVELS ADDITIONALTONE= PLATINUM
How Long Will Color Last Depends on: Porosity Dryness Contact Duration Shampoo Habits Color Darkness Type of Color Formula
GLOSS / GLAZE SEMI DEMI PERMANENT
CUSTOMERTYPE = FORMULA TYPE
Advance Color Formulas Using Oxidative & Acidic Dyes
Refreshing Faded Ends Use remaining color in bowl and add Color Instantane to pull through Use instead of a shampoo cap or pulling through straight color
Doubling Your Pigment Normal Formula 2 oz 5.34 Teinture 2 oz 20 Volume Double Pigment Formula 2 oz 5.34 Teinture 1 oz 40 Volume 1 oz 5.34 Instantane
TINT BACKS From Bleached Blonde Back to Brown
Date
Date
Demi Permanent 2 oz Instantane + 1oz 20 Volume + 1oz Teinture Use instead of progressive demi products like shades
Semi Permanent 2 oz Instantane + 1oz 10 Volume + 1oz Teinture Lasts about 6-8 shampoos Text
Types of Toners Use ampli鍖ers in your formula to tone as you lift. Mastey Color Shampoo Instantane as a toner by itself Toner Formula
Toner Formula = SEMI 2 oz Instantane + 1oz 10 Volume + 1oz Teinture Lasts about 6-8 shampoos
Gloss or Glaze Gloss is a clear shine / Glaze is a gloss tinted with a tone
Gloss Apply to hair after color, Process 10 Minutes, Shampoo
Glaze 1oz Clear Gloss + 1oz of desired tone in Instantane CG + 5.73 Instantane => Toasted Hazelnut Glaze, Same Process procedure as Gloss
PUTTING IT ALLTOGETHER From Color Creation to Final Look
KATY PERRY Create a beautiful tone over black to dark brown hair 1.07 + 07 OR 1.07 + 22
DUCHESS OF CAMBRIDGE Dark Hair with Glimmers of Golden Light 11.2 + 07 OR 11.2 + 37 Both with 60Volume
ANN HATHAWAY Creating Root Beer 6.3 + 4.65
EMMA STONE Formula 1: 6.64 + 6.3 Formula 2: 7.43 Glaze Formula
JENNIFER ANISTON Formula 1: 7.1 + 20Volume Formula 2: 6.23 + 10Volume Formula 3: 11.2 + 60Volume
JENNIFER LOPEZ Formula 1: 8.1 + 37 + 30Volume Formula 2: 11.2 + 07 + 60Volume Formula 3: 7.4 + 9.3 + 20Volume Formula 4: 7.9 + 10Volume Formula 5: 11.2 + 10.2 Glaze
10 FORMULA CONVERSIONS Pick 10 of your existing formulas Pick a part of each formula you would like to enhance Enhance them some how using the techniques you have learned.Add a tone, a glaze or double pigment...
10 CELEBRITY FORMULAS Pick 10 celebrities Grab a picture of their look from google images. Tell us how you would achieve that look on your model. Each models starting level is either a level 4, 5, or 6 These looks should be more than 1 single color, they should use the techniques and formulations you have learned in your training.

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Mastey Hair Color Certification - Advanced Formulations

  • 2. THERE ARE PLENTY OF WRONG FORMULAS
  • 3. THERE IS NO RIGHT FORMULA
  • 6. NATURAL LEVEL => DESIRED LEVEL RPC = % GRAY = NEEDED LIFT = ADDITIONALTONE= RPC = RED % GRAY = 25% NEEDED LIFT = 3 LEVELS ADDITIONALTONE= PURPLE
  • 7. Mastey Hair Color Is Not Matte Or Translucent It Is Re鍖ective Color Like Natural Hair Color LEVELS Natural Hair Levels
  • 8. As level rises so does alkalinity Water Conditioners Alkaline Agent Pigment
  • 9. LEVEL 6 WILL LIFT MORE THAN A LEVEL 5
  • 10. MORE LIFT = MORE RPC
  • 11. As level rises amount of Pigment Decreases Water Conditioners Alkaline Agent Pigment
  • 12. LEVEL 9 HAS MORE PIGMENT THAN A LEVEL 11
  • 13. MORE PIGMENT = BETTER COVERAGE &TONING
  • 15. 60VOLUME HAS MORE LIFT THAN 10VOLUME
  • 22. NATURAL LEVEL => DESIRED LEVEL RPC = % GRAY = NEEDED LIFT = ADDITIONALTONE= RPC = RED % GRAY = 25% NEEDED LIFT = 3 LEVELS ADDITIONALTONE= PURPLE
  • 25. Tones & Bases 24 pre mixed tonal options
  • 32. 07 => COOL NEUTRAL + BLUE Used to enhance darker shades or neutralize lighter shades
  • 33. 37 => YELLOW + BLUE = GREEN Used to neutralize REDS AND ORANGES
  • 34. 22 => VIOLET + VIOLET Used to enhance dark shades or neutralize yellows in light shades
  • 35. 44 => COPPER + COPPER Used to enhance or introduce coper into a shade
  • 36. 64 => RED + COPPER Used to enhance or introduce red copper into a shade
  • 37. 66 => RED + RED Used to enhance or introduce red into a shade
  • 38. 67 => RED + BLUE Used to enhance or introduce red cherry into a shade
  • 39. 33 => GOLD + GOLD Used to enhance or introduce gold into a shade
  • 40. How to use Amplifiers For Vibrancy For Toning
  • 41. How much do I use 7/8 Base Shade + 1/8 Ampli鍖er = Toning While Lifting 3/4 Base Shade + 1/4 Ampli鍖er = More Depth + Little Tone 1/2 Base Shade + 1/2 Ampli鍖er = More Tone + Less Depth 1/4 Base Shade + 3/4 Ampli鍖er = Mostly Tone + Little Depth
  • 42. When Should I use Amplifiers Depositing => To add tone Lifting 1 Level=> minimal RPC / add to enhance tone Lifting 2 Levels => RPC Medium / Use to enhance or counteract Lifting 3 + Levels => RPC Lots / Use to enhance or counteract
  • 43. Color Formulations for Vibrancy Black & Dark Browns Use 07 or 22 to add a Blue or Violet tone to your blacks. this gives you a more beautiful richer black as opposed to a 鍖at black. 1 part 1.07 + 1 part 07 + 10 Volume 1 part 1.07 + 1 part 22 + 10 Volume
  • 44. Color Formulations for Vibrancy Reds Use 64, 66 and 67 with red shades to add intensity to existing red shades Use higher levels of peroxide to expose more underlying pigment and use that to intensify a result. 1 part 7.6 + 1 part 66 + 30 Volume + HEAT (optional)
  • 45. Color Formulations for Vibrancy Coppers Use 44 and 64 with copper shades to create richer brighter copper results. Use higher levels of peroxide to expose more underlying pigment and use that natural remaining pigment to enhance the copper result. 1 part 8.64 + 1 part 64 + 30 Volume + HEAT (optional)
  • 46. Color Formulations for Toning When Lifting Adding 37 green, 22 violet or 07 blue, or a combination of them into a formula, can help you to counteract underlying pigment as you are lifting.
  • 47. Classic Formulation: Highlights On Levels 6 and bellow: Add 37 Green ampli鍖er to your lifting formula 11.2 + 37 + 60 Volume
  • 48. Classic Formulation: Highlights On Levels 7 and higher: Add 07 BLUE Ampli鍖er to your lifting formula 11.2 + 07 + 60 Volume
  • 49. For more control Mix 07 and 37 to create a more blue green when counteracting. Others like Violet pigment so they use 22 instead of 07 or a mixture of 07 & 22 in their high lift formulas. Classic Formulation: Highlights
  • 50. AMPLIFIERS For best results use with a base tone that already has the desired tone: 4.6 + 66 The more ampli鍖er you put into a formula the more it a鍖ects the lift of the shade in that formula 11.2 + 07 lifts less than just using 11.2
  • 51. PERCENTAGES MAKE A DIFFERENCE 1 1/2 oz of 6.6 + 1/2 oz of 66 IS NOT EQUALTO 1/2 oz of 6.6 + 1/1/2 oz of 66
  • 53. SIMPLE FORMULATION BREAKDOWN The more 33 you add the more gold in your formula The more gold the more warmth you create. To add more warmth or gold to a level 4 gold (4.3): 4.3 + 33
  • 54. TRICKIER FORMULATION BREAKDOWN 4.65 = 4.6 + 4.5 or 4.65 = 4.6 + 33 + 22 + 66
  • 57. NEUTRAL = BROWN Blue + Red + Yellow = Brown
  • 58. NEUTRAL = BROWN Orange + Purple + Green = Brown
  • 59. YOU ARE ALWAYS MAKING BROWN! Make Brown then AddTone
  • 60. STARTING LEVEL => DESIRED LEVEL FORMULA LEVEL 4.0 10VOLUME AMPLIFIER: NONE START LEVEL: 5 DESIRED LEVEL: 4 RPC = NONE % GRAY = 0% NEEDED LIFT = 0 LEVELS ADDITIONALTONE= NONE
  • 61. STARTING LEVEL => DESIRED LEVEL FORMULA LEVEL 3.0 10VOLUME AMPLIFIER: 07 + 22 START LEVEL: 5 DESIRED LEVEL: 3 RPC = NONE % GRAY = 0% NEEDED LIFT = 0 LEVELS ADDITIONALTONE= BLUE/PURPLE
  • 62. STARTING LEVEL => DESIRED LEVEL FORMULA LEVEL 6.56 TO HELP GRAY: 6.3 20 OR 30VOLUME AMPLIFIER: 67 START LEVEL: 4 DESIRED LEVEL: 6 RPC = RED % GRAY = 25% NEEDED LIFT = 3 LEVELS ADDITIONALTONE= PURPLE
  • 63. STARTING LEVEL => DESIRED LEVEL FORMULA LEVEL 8.0 30 OR 40VOLUME AMPLIFIER: 07 OR 07 +22 OR 07+37 START LEVEL:5 DESIRED LEVEL: 8 RPC =YELLOW/ORANGE % GRAY = 0% NEEDED LIFT = 3 LEVELS ADDITIONALTONE= NEUTRAL
  • 64. STARTING LEVEL => DESIRED LEVEL FORMULA LEVEL 11.2 60VOLUME AMPLIFIER: 07 OR 07 +22 OR 07+37 TONE WITH 9.2 DEMI START LEVEL:7 DESIRED LEVEL: 11 RPC =YELLOW % GRAY = 0% NEEDED LIFT = 4 LEVELS ADDITIONALTONE= PLATINUM
  • 65. How Long Will Color Last Depends on: Porosity Dryness Contact Duration Shampoo Habits Color Darkness Type of Color Formula
  • 68. Advance Color Formulas Using Oxidative & Acidic Dyes
  • 69. Refreshing Faded Ends Use remaining color in bowl and add Color Instantane to pull through Use instead of a shampoo cap or pulling through straight color
  • 70. Doubling Your Pigment Normal Formula 2 oz 5.34 Teinture 2 oz 20 Volume Double Pigment Formula 2 oz 5.34 Teinture 1 oz 40 Volume 1 oz 5.34 Instantane
  • 71. TINT BACKS From Bleached Blonde Back to Brown
  • 72. Date
  • 73. Date
  • 74. Demi Permanent 2 oz Instantane + 1oz 20 Volume + 1oz Teinture Use instead of progressive demi products like shades
  • 75. Semi Permanent 2 oz Instantane + 1oz 10 Volume + 1oz Teinture Lasts about 6-8 shampoos Text
  • 76. Types of Toners Use ampli鍖ers in your formula to tone as you lift. Mastey Color Shampoo Instantane as a toner by itself Toner Formula
  • 77. Toner Formula = SEMI 2 oz Instantane + 1oz 10 Volume + 1oz Teinture Lasts about 6-8 shampoos
  • 78. Gloss or Glaze Gloss is a clear shine / Glaze is a gloss tinted with a tone
  • 79. Gloss Apply to hair after color, Process 10 Minutes, Shampoo
  • 80. Glaze 1oz Clear Gloss + 1oz of desired tone in Instantane CG + 5.73 Instantane => Toasted Hazelnut Glaze, Same Process procedure as Gloss
  • 81. PUTTING IT ALLTOGETHER From Color Creation to Final Look
  • 82. KATY PERRY Create a beautiful tone over black to dark brown hair 1.07 + 07 OR 1.07 + 22
  • 83. DUCHESS OF CAMBRIDGE Dark Hair with Glimmers of Golden Light 11.2 + 07 OR 11.2 + 37 Both with 60Volume
  • 84. ANN HATHAWAY Creating Root Beer 6.3 + 4.65
  • 85. EMMA STONE Formula 1: 6.64 + 6.3 Formula 2: 7.43 Glaze Formula
  • 86. JENNIFER ANISTON Formula 1: 7.1 + 20Volume Formula 2: 6.23 + 10Volume Formula 3: 11.2 + 60Volume
  • 87. JENNIFER LOPEZ Formula 1: 8.1 + 37 + 30Volume Formula 2: 11.2 + 07 + 60Volume Formula 3: 7.4 + 9.3 + 20Volume Formula 4: 7.9 + 10Volume Formula 5: 11.2 + 10.2 Glaze
  • 88. 10 FORMULA CONVERSIONS Pick 10 of your existing formulas Pick a part of each formula you would like to enhance Enhance them some how using the techniques you have learned.Add a tone, a glaze or double pigment...
  • 89. 10 CELEBRITY FORMULAS Pick 10 celebrities Grab a picture of their look from google images. Tell us how you would achieve that look on your model. Each models starting level is either a level 4, 5, or 6 These looks should be more than 1 single color, they should use the techniques and formulations you have learned in your training.