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MAIN TOPIC:BROKEN STITCH
BY
MR.ZAHIR UDDIN MD BABUR
QUALITY CONTROLLER(WOVEN)
VENUE :
WINDY APPARELS Ltd.
BERON, ASHULIA
DEPZ ROAD, SAVAR
DHAKA-1341
DATED: 25/08/2016
How To Reduce BROKEN STITCH
DEFINATION OF BROKEN STITCH
 Broken Stitching Is Often Caused By Rough
Handling. If You See Stitching Is Missing Or Has Been
Broken, Workers At Your Factory May Be Rushing To
Complete An Order. The Supplier May Also Have Been
Provided An Outdated Specification For Sewing. Stitch
Issues Will Generally Be Considered A Major Defect For
H&M.
TYPES OF BROKEN STITCH
STYLE - ULRIK JACKET
Broken Stitches - Needle
Cutting
Broken Stitches - Abrasion
Broken Stitches by Chemical DegradationBroken Stitch By Machine PARTS
BROKEN STITCHES - NEEDLE CUTTING
 Where the thread is being broken where one seam crosses another seam (ex: bar
tacks on top of waistband stitching, seat seam on top of riser seam) resulting in
stitch failure.
 Minimizing broken stitches due to Needle Cutting
 Use a higher performance Perms Core or D-Core thread.
 Use a larger diameter thread on operations where the thread is being cut.
 Make sure the proper stitch balance is being used. On a chain stitch seam on
denim, you normally would like to maintain a 60%/40% relationship of Needle
thread to lopper thread in the Seam.
 Use needles with the correct needle point.
 Change the needles at regular intervals on operations where the Needle Cuts
are occurring frequently.
BROKEN STITCHES - ABRASION
 Where thread on the stitch line is broken during stone-washing, sand blasting,
hand sanding, etc. Broken stitches must be repaired by re stitching over the
top of the stitch-line.
 Minimizing broken Stitches due to Abrasion :
 Use a higher performance Perms Core or D-Core thread.
 Use a larger diameter thread on operations where excessive abrasion is occurring.
 Make sure stitches are balance properly.
 Use a Magic air entangled thread in the Lopper due to its lower seam profile making
it less susceptible to abrasion.
 Monitor the Finishing Cycle for compliance to specs.
BROKEN STITCHES BY CHEMICAL
DEGRADATION
 Where thread is being compromised by the chemicals used during laundering
resulting in loss or change of color and seam failure.
 Minimizing broken stitches due to Chemical Degradation:
 Use a higher performance Parma Core NWT that has greater resistance to
chemical degradation.
 It is recommended to go to larger thread sizes when the Denim Garments
will be subject to Harsh Chemical washes.
 To achieve the best laundering results make sure that the water
temperatures and PH Levels are correct and that the proper amounts and
sequence of chemical dispersion are within guidelines.
BROKEN STITCH BY M/C PARTS
 Is Not Used Being Properly Machine Small Parts
 Minimizing broken stitches due to Machine parts:
 Use Machine Washer .
 Use Springs at Bobbin.
 Use Correct Threading .
 Use Take Of Spring.(Tension spring)
OPERATOR &M/C PARTS MISSING
TYPES OF BROKEN STITCH
Machine Washer Springs at Bobbin Correct Threading Take Of Spring
Handling NEEDLE Sharp edge Needle Feed Dogs Hole
MACHINE WASHER
Dont Use Machine
washer
Use Machine Washer
JUKI Button Stitch M/C
Model LK1903A-SS
JUKI Button Stitch M/C
Model LK1903A-SS
SPRINGS AT BOBBIN
Use Springs At BobbinDont Use Springs At Bobbin
CORRECT THREADING
WRONG Threading Correct Threading
JUKI Plain M/C
Model DDL-8700B
JUKI Plain M/C
Model DDL-8700B
TAKE OF SPRING(TENSION SPRING)
Use Take Of Spring(tension Sprin
Dont Use Take Of Spring
(Tension Spring)
JUKI Plain M/C
Model DDL-8700B
JUKI Plain M/C
Model DDL-8700B
HANDLING
Correct Way of HandlingOperator Handling problem
JUKI Plain M/C
Model DDL-8700B
JUKI Plain M/C
Model DDL-8700B
NEEDLE
Operator Use Bent Needle Operator Dont Use Bent Needl
TYPICAL Plain M/C
Model DDL-N/A
JUKI Plain M/C
Model DDL-8700B
SHARPEDGE NEEDLE
Operator Use Sharp Edge Needle Operator Dont Use Sharp Edg
Needle
JUKI Plain M/C
Model DDL-8700B
JUKI Plain M/C
Model DDL-8700B
FEED DOGS HOLE
Feed Dogs Hole Not Adjusted Good Setting Feed Dogs Ho
TYPICAL Two Needle
M/C
JUKI Plain M/C
Model DDL-8700B
THE NEEDLE KEEPS BREAKING
The Solution: This boils down to a single follow-up question, "Are
you using the right needle?" Going up or down to the
appropriately-numbered size can make a huge difference. Needles
are sized from 8 to 18, depending on their use. A size 9 or 11 works
best for delicate, lightweight fabrics like chiffon, silk, and organza.
A size 14 works best for medium-weight fabrics like flannel, linen,
and synthetic suede. And a size 16 (or preferably) 18 is reserved
for heavy-weight fabrics like denim. Therefore, using a size 9
needle on denim will inevitably break the needle. Additionally, are
you using the right type -- that is, ball point, regular point or wedge
THIS THREE-STEP CHECKLIST CAN EASILY SOLVE
MOST MACHINE MISHAPS.
1. Clean it out: When was the last time you did a thorough top-
to-bottom wipe-down of your machine? Dust and lint can
quietly and quickly accumulate in the bobbin area and tension
assembly, so have your machine professionally serviced
regularly. If you use it daily, a weekly cleaning is needed. For
weekly use only, clean it once a month. And for occasional
monthly use, clean it every three months.
2. Rethread your machine: Yes, even the slightest bump can
affect your stitching. Check your bobbin, needle, and thread to
make sure everything is in the right place.
3. Check your needle and thread: As we already mentioned,
using the right size and type of needle is imperative.
Additionally, you should use high-quality thread -- it will have a
nice, smooth filament and not be "fuzzy" or uneven in
thickness. Thread does have a shelf-life -- although different
types age differently -- so keep your collection of spools in
rotation and stored properly (out of humidity and direct
OUR MODEL LINE DHU%
0
128
4
70
50
66
4
27
65
83
3 4
46
68
139
0
34
8
169
2
11
PROJECTION
BttmHem
Up-Down
Shading
BrokenStitch
Pocket
NECKLOOSE
NEEDLEMARK
Openstitch
Pleat
NEEDLECUT
Defect Contribution
15
154
0
175
133
151
0
149
213
123
3 0 3
139
67
1624
148
107
0 0
PROJECTION
BttmHem
Up-Down
Shading
BrokenStitch
Pocket
OilSpot
RAWStitch
Openstitch
Pleat
FabDefect
Defect Contribution
Month-AugustMonth-July
CORRECTIVE PREVENTIVE ACTION
Hourly Threading, Tension, &
Needle Sharp Edge Check Report.
Daily Awareness About That Defect.
Daily DHU Comparing.
Root Cause Analysis & Corrective
Action Plan.
Daily Top 3 Defect Board In Sewing
Line.
7 Pcs System.
EVERY WEEK MEETING WITH ORGANIGATION TOP
LEVEL,MID LEVEL&ROOT LEVEL MANAGEMENT FOR DHU
TOP 3 DEFECT . CORRECTION OF ALL H&M DEFECTS .
OUR GOAL
This means that they are saying that you shouldnt give up so easily when
something is hard. It reminds me that each time I try something new it will
get easier each time I do it. If I dont get something right the first time I need
to keep trying.
 Example
When I just started to surf I couldnt get up on the board, I always used to fall off
the second I tried to get up. But now I can get up and paddle into the waves
and go along the wave with out falling off.
SUCCESS
 Edison  holder of over 1,000 patents  had an
insane work ethic. He was known to put in 72 hours at a
time.
So naturally, his definition of success is equally
ambitious: "Success is 1% inspiration, 99%
perspiration."
INVENTOR THOMAS EDISON RECOGNIZED THAT
SUCCESS IS A GRIND
PHILOSOPHICAL ENUNCIATION FOR WIN
Presentation ,BROKEN STITCH BY  MEHADI HASAN

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Presentation ,BROKEN STITCH BY MEHADI HASAN

  • 1. MAIN TOPIC:BROKEN STITCH BY MR.ZAHIR UDDIN MD BABUR QUALITY CONTROLLER(WOVEN) VENUE : WINDY APPARELS Ltd. BERON, ASHULIA DEPZ ROAD, SAVAR DHAKA-1341 DATED: 25/08/2016 How To Reduce BROKEN STITCH
  • 2. DEFINATION OF BROKEN STITCH Broken Stitching Is Often Caused By Rough Handling. If You See Stitching Is Missing Or Has Been Broken, Workers At Your Factory May Be Rushing To Complete An Order. The Supplier May Also Have Been Provided An Outdated Specification For Sewing. Stitch Issues Will Generally Be Considered A Major Defect For H&M.
  • 3. TYPES OF BROKEN STITCH STYLE - ULRIK JACKET Broken Stitches - Needle Cutting Broken Stitches - Abrasion Broken Stitches by Chemical DegradationBroken Stitch By Machine PARTS
  • 4. BROKEN STITCHES - NEEDLE CUTTING Where the thread is being broken where one seam crosses another seam (ex: bar tacks on top of waistband stitching, seat seam on top of riser seam) resulting in stitch failure. Minimizing broken stitches due to Needle Cutting Use a higher performance Perms Core or D-Core thread. Use a larger diameter thread on operations where the thread is being cut. Make sure the proper stitch balance is being used. On a chain stitch seam on denim, you normally would like to maintain a 60%/40% relationship of Needle thread to lopper thread in the Seam. Use needles with the correct needle point. Change the needles at regular intervals on operations where the Needle Cuts are occurring frequently.
  • 5. BROKEN STITCHES - ABRASION Where thread on the stitch line is broken during stone-washing, sand blasting, hand sanding, etc. Broken stitches must be repaired by re stitching over the top of the stitch-line. Minimizing broken Stitches due to Abrasion : Use a higher performance Perms Core or D-Core thread. Use a larger diameter thread on operations where excessive abrasion is occurring. Make sure stitches are balance properly. Use a Magic air entangled thread in the Lopper due to its lower seam profile making it less susceptible to abrasion. Monitor the Finishing Cycle for compliance to specs.
  • 6. BROKEN STITCHES BY CHEMICAL DEGRADATION Where thread is being compromised by the chemicals used during laundering resulting in loss or change of color and seam failure. Minimizing broken stitches due to Chemical Degradation: Use a higher performance Parma Core NWT that has greater resistance to chemical degradation. It is recommended to go to larger thread sizes when the Denim Garments will be subject to Harsh Chemical washes. To achieve the best laundering results make sure that the water temperatures and PH Levels are correct and that the proper amounts and sequence of chemical dispersion are within guidelines.
  • 7. BROKEN STITCH BY M/C PARTS Is Not Used Being Properly Machine Small Parts Minimizing broken stitches due to Machine parts: Use Machine Washer . Use Springs at Bobbin. Use Correct Threading . Use Take Of Spring.(Tension spring)
  • 8. OPERATOR &M/C PARTS MISSING TYPES OF BROKEN STITCH Machine Washer Springs at Bobbin Correct Threading Take Of Spring Handling NEEDLE Sharp edge Needle Feed Dogs Hole
  • 9. MACHINE WASHER Dont Use Machine washer Use Machine Washer JUKI Button Stitch M/C Model LK1903A-SS JUKI Button Stitch M/C Model LK1903A-SS
  • 10. SPRINGS AT BOBBIN Use Springs At BobbinDont Use Springs At Bobbin
  • 11. CORRECT THREADING WRONG Threading Correct Threading JUKI Plain M/C Model DDL-8700B JUKI Plain M/C Model DDL-8700B
  • 12. TAKE OF SPRING(TENSION SPRING) Use Take Of Spring(tension Sprin Dont Use Take Of Spring (Tension Spring) JUKI Plain M/C Model DDL-8700B JUKI Plain M/C Model DDL-8700B
  • 13. HANDLING Correct Way of HandlingOperator Handling problem JUKI Plain M/C Model DDL-8700B JUKI Plain M/C Model DDL-8700B
  • 14. NEEDLE Operator Use Bent Needle Operator Dont Use Bent Needl TYPICAL Plain M/C Model DDL-N/A JUKI Plain M/C Model DDL-8700B
  • 15. SHARPEDGE NEEDLE Operator Use Sharp Edge Needle Operator Dont Use Sharp Edg Needle JUKI Plain M/C Model DDL-8700B JUKI Plain M/C Model DDL-8700B
  • 16. FEED DOGS HOLE Feed Dogs Hole Not Adjusted Good Setting Feed Dogs Ho TYPICAL Two Needle M/C JUKI Plain M/C Model DDL-8700B
  • 17. THE NEEDLE KEEPS BREAKING The Solution: This boils down to a single follow-up question, "Are you using the right needle?" Going up or down to the appropriately-numbered size can make a huge difference. Needles are sized from 8 to 18, depending on their use. A size 9 or 11 works best for delicate, lightweight fabrics like chiffon, silk, and organza. A size 14 works best for medium-weight fabrics like flannel, linen, and synthetic suede. And a size 16 (or preferably) 18 is reserved for heavy-weight fabrics like denim. Therefore, using a size 9 needle on denim will inevitably break the needle. Additionally, are you using the right type -- that is, ball point, regular point or wedge
  • 18. THIS THREE-STEP CHECKLIST CAN EASILY SOLVE MOST MACHINE MISHAPS. 1. Clean it out: When was the last time you did a thorough top- to-bottom wipe-down of your machine? Dust and lint can quietly and quickly accumulate in the bobbin area and tension assembly, so have your machine professionally serviced regularly. If you use it daily, a weekly cleaning is needed. For weekly use only, clean it once a month. And for occasional monthly use, clean it every three months. 2. Rethread your machine: Yes, even the slightest bump can affect your stitching. Check your bobbin, needle, and thread to make sure everything is in the right place. 3. Check your needle and thread: As we already mentioned, using the right size and type of needle is imperative. Additionally, you should use high-quality thread -- it will have a nice, smooth filament and not be "fuzzy" or uneven in thickness. Thread does have a shelf-life -- although different types age differently -- so keep your collection of spools in rotation and stored properly (out of humidity and direct
  • 19. OUR MODEL LINE DHU% 0 128 4 70 50 66 4 27 65 83 3 4 46 68 139 0 34 8 169 2 11 PROJECTION BttmHem Up-Down Shading BrokenStitch Pocket NECKLOOSE NEEDLEMARK Openstitch Pleat NEEDLECUT Defect Contribution 15 154 0 175 133 151 0 149 213 123 3 0 3 139 67 1624 148 107 0 0 PROJECTION BttmHem Up-Down Shading BrokenStitch Pocket OilSpot RAWStitch Openstitch Pleat FabDefect Defect Contribution Month-AugustMonth-July
  • 20. CORRECTIVE PREVENTIVE ACTION Hourly Threading, Tension, & Needle Sharp Edge Check Report. Daily Awareness About That Defect. Daily DHU Comparing. Root Cause Analysis & Corrective Action Plan. Daily Top 3 Defect Board In Sewing Line. 7 Pcs System.
  • 21. EVERY WEEK MEETING WITH ORGANIGATION TOP LEVEL,MID LEVEL&ROOT LEVEL MANAGEMENT FOR DHU TOP 3 DEFECT . CORRECTION OF ALL H&M DEFECTS .
  • 22. OUR GOAL This means that they are saying that you shouldnt give up so easily when something is hard. It reminds me that each time I try something new it will get easier each time I do it. If I dont get something right the first time I need to keep trying. Example When I just started to surf I couldnt get up on the board, I always used to fall off the second I tried to get up. But now I can get up and paddle into the waves and go along the wave with out falling off.
  • 23. SUCCESS Edison holder of over 1,000 patents had an insane work ethic. He was known to put in 72 hours at a time. So naturally, his definition of success is equally ambitious: "Success is 1% inspiration, 99% perspiration." INVENTOR THOMAS EDISON RECOGNIZED THAT SUCCESS IS A GRIND