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april 2011 travelandleisure.com00
t h e b o l d a n d
t h e b e au t i f u l
With its vivid Dorothy Draper interiors and lavish antebellum air, the legendary Greenbrier resort
serves as the perfect backdrop for fall’s most vibrant new looks. aimee lee ball travels to
West Virginia’s Allegheny Mountains to learn how this classic hotel got its groove back.
Photographed by Paul Costello Styled by Mimi Lombardo
On the Greenbrier’s
North Parlor Porch. Coat and
clutch by Milly; tights, Hue;
shoes, Marc Jacobs; fedora,
Albertus Swanepoel; bracelet,
Rachel Leigh; ring, Jessica Ricci.
Opposite: In Paradise Alley,
off the main dining room.
Jacket, top, and pants
by Tory Burch; shoes,
Fratelli Rossetti; bag, Dior.
See Buyer’s Guide, page 171.

Travel and Leisure : The Greenbrier

september 2011 travelandleisure.com144
shimmering chandeliers. The Greenbrier resort, in rural
West Virginia, was the improbable jewel in her crown. And
in many ways, it still is.
Travelers have been drawn to this remote valley in the
Allegheny Mountains for more than 200 years, seeking the
curative powers of the white sulphur springs discovered by the
Shawnee. The original hotel, known as the White, and its be-
hemoth (700-room) successor
welcomed Vanderbilts and
Rockefellers, Dolley Madison
and Davy Crockett, Jimmy
Hoffa and Bing Crosby—who
oftenarrivedinprivaterailroad
cars at the depot across from
the main entrance. The Duke
andDuchessofWindsordanced
in the ballroom; more recent
royalty included Bill Gates.
When Draper was hired to
redecorate after the Second
World War, the resort had just
finishedservice as a 2,000-bed
militaryhospital.Herobjective
was to create a large country
house catering to the comfort
and pleasure of guests—a way
of life she understood as the
daughter of one of America’s
wealthiest families. She re-
tained the distinctive wide
hallways (a tradition from the
hotel’s earliest incarnation,
when they accommodated
hoop skirts) and dressed the
afternoon-tea staff in uni-
forms that recalled 19th-
century parlormaids. She used
what she called “masses of
beautiful color” with no fear of
mixingpatterns.(Forthegrand
opening, she was said to be
outraged at a gardener water-
ing the lawn with a black hose when she had specified red.) One
review of the hotel called it “Dorothy at her flaming best.”
But two years ago, with a tired reputation and drooping occu-
pancy,thepropertywasinChapter11bankruptcy.Alocalbillionaire
named Jim Justice bought all 6,500 acres for the bargain price of
$20 million, determined to resurrect the glory days. With a new
sushi bar, luxury clothing stores, and the Black Eyed Peas in
concert, the Greenbrier is gingerly embracing the 21st century.
Some changes have been controversial, including the casino
dubbed “Monte Carlo meets GonewiththeWind.” Today, women
in little black dresses are offered big black napkins in a steak
house where Wagyu beef is ordered by the ounce. Guests can
getahot-stonemassageatthespa,practicetherealsportofkings
withtheresidentfalcons,ortourtheBunker,asecretColdWar–
era fallout shelter for mem-
bersofCongress.Startingnext
summer, there will be train
servicefromWashington,D.C.
The restored 1950’s Pullman
cars will be met by horse-
drawn carriages.
But the “Draper touch” is
stillinevidence,providingcon-
tinuityforfamilieswho’vebeen
visiting for generations. Her
protégéCarletonVarneykeeps
a vast inventory of her designs
in circulation, and there’s an
upholstery shop on site that
canwhipoutareplacementfor
anysofaorbedskirtthat’sstart-
ing to look shabby. The tur-
quoise striped walls, black and
whitecheckerboardfloors,and
“Fudge Apron” floral chintz
constitute a classic meme that
continuestoinspirepeoplelike
Meredith German, a 34-year-
olddesignerofaccessoriesand
jewelry who grew up nearby,
eating Sunday lunch in the
Greenbrier dining room.
“Thosecabbagerosesareinmy
blood,”saysGerman,whonow
shoots irreverent “look books”
for her Meredith Wendell col-
lections at the resort—belts
wrappedaroundfringedvelvet
chairsorhandbagsperchedon
agolfcartatoneofthefourchampionshipcourses.“Atonephoto
shoot, a bellman walked by a model lying on the floor and com-
mented, ‘She must have had a rough night.’ ”
Surely Dorothy Draper would have approved. ✚
The Greenbrier, 300 W. Main St., White Sulphur Springs, W. Va.;
800/624-6070; greenbrier.com; doubles from $359.
the queen of interior design for a large part of
the 20th century, dorothy draper was known for
blowsyfloralpatterns,baroqueplasterpediments,
Playing croquet (sweater and skirt by Bottega Veneta; tights, Hue;
shoes, Fratelli Rossetti; necklace, Pono by Joan Goodman).
Opposite, clockwise from top left: On the stairs to Greenbrier Avenue,
one of the hotel’s shopping areas (dress by Duro Olowu; shoes,
Jimmy Choo; clutch, Tiffany & Co.; earrings, Stella & Dot; bracelets,
Meredith Wendell); in the Upper Lobby (dress by Giambattista Valli; tights,
Hue; shoes, Fratelli Rossetti; hat, Leah C. Couture Millinery; necklace,
Elva Fields; ring, Stella & Dot); in the Victorian Writing Room
(dress by Chris Benz; glasses, Selima Optique; ring, Sushma Patel);
in the Cameo Ballroom (dress by Michael Kors; shoes,
Roger Vivier; clutch, Tiffany & Co.; bracelets, Meredith Wendell).
Model:EkaterinaTrifonova/WIlhelmina.hairandmakeup:TinaEcheverri/JudyCasey

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Travel and Leisure : The Greenbrier

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