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Tools for garment construction
- 1. S.Dhivya, Assistant Professor Department of Costume Design and Fashion
- 2. TOOLS FOR CLOTHING CONSTRUCTION Beside a sewing machine in good condition, well selected sewing equipment and pressing equipment are essential for making garment of good fit.
- 3. CUTTING TOOLS SCISSORS These have round handles and the blades are usually less than six inches. They are designed mainly for snipping threads and trimming seams. For embroidery and for cutting button holes sharp pointed scissors with blade 1/2 inch to one inch long are very useful.
- 4. DRESS MAKERS SHEARS For cutting fabric, shears are more satisfactory than scissors. It has one small ring handle for the thumb and a larger ring handle for the remaining fingers. They have longer blades (6- 12inches)
- 5. PINKING SHEARS These are useful for finishing the edges of seams and other raw edges of fabric. They produce a notched (zigzag) cutting line which prevents raveling of firmly woven fabric.
- 7. BUTTON HOLE SCISSOR These can be adjusted so as to cut buttonholes in any size you require. They are useful if you are expert in tailoring and need to make many button hole
- 8. ELECTRIC SCISSORS Electric scissors are very light and easy to operate.
- 9. HAND SEWING AND EMBROIDERY TOOLS EMBROIDERY FRAME This is used for keeping fabric stretched while the work is being done.
- 10. EMBROIDERY SCISSORS Sharp pointed embroidery scissors are essential, especially for cut work embroidery.
- 11. EMBROIDERY THREAD This is available in variety of colours in six-strand skeins. One can use two or three strands at a time.
- 12. NEEDLES The best quality sewing needles are made of hand ground steel. Points are sharp and eyes are smooth and well polished. For hand sewing select medium length needles with a short oval eye. Crewel needles designed for embroidery work have long oval eye and therefore easily threaded. The most suitable sizes for general hand sewing are seven and eight.
- 14. NEEDLE CASE One can get cases in which needles of various sizes can be arranged.
- 15. NEEDLE THREADER This is a device made of thin wire which aids in threading machine needles and hand needles.
- 17. THIMBLE This is worn on the middle finger of the left hand to protect the finger and to aid in doing hand sewing quickly.
- 19. STILETTO This is sharp pointed instrument for punching holes in material. It is used for forming eyelets in belts and for embroidery work.
- 20. BODKIN This is a flat needle with a blunt end and a large eye, used for threading elastic and tape.
- 21. MEASURING TOOL MEASURING TAPE Select a good quality tape which will not stretch after use. It is usually about 遜 inch to 村 inch wide to 60 inches long, and has 1/8 inch divisions.
- 22. YARD STICK OR METER SCALE These may be wooden, plastic or metal. They are useful for checking grain lines when fixing pattern pieces on material and for drawing long seam lines on fabric or paper.
- 23. L- SCALE This has a perfect right angle corner and is used to draw lines at right angles at the time of drafting. It has two arms or sides, one side is usually 24 long and other 12 long. It is helpful during the process of straightening fabric to check whether the corners of the fabric have got the right angled structure.
- 24. SMALL RULER A small transparent ruler of 6 length divided into 1/8 inch and 1/16 inch divisions on one side and centimeters on the other side is useful for measuring small distance for tucks, hems, facing etc.
- 25. HEM GUAGE A Six inch gauge can be made of cardboard or bought from a shop. It is used as a measuring guide for marking width of hem pleats, seam allowance etc, accurately. Notches are provided at regular intervals along the gauge.
- 26. HEM MARKER This is useful for professional hem marking. This is used to mark out a completely level hem line in a chalk. It can be adjusted to any hem length.
- 27. MARKING TOOLS DRESS MAKERS CARBON: This is a tracing paper with one side waxed and is available in different colours. It is used to transfer pattern markings such as seam lines, darts, pleats etc., from paper patterns to the fabric being cut
- 28. Tracing Wheel This is a sharp tool had wheel used with dress makers carbon to transfer pattern markings to cloth. Select a wheel with firm sharp points. Test it to make sure that it does not bend easily and that the points are not blunt.
- 29. Tailors Chalk This is used for marking seam lines and other pattern details on fabric as an aid in stitching. This is available in assorted colours and in rectangular or triangular shapes.
- 30. GENERAL TOOLS PINS: Using of pins for fixing of pattern pieces on to fabric makes your work easier, quicker and more accurate. Select sharp with medium length pins that will not leave pin marks on the fabric. PIN CUSHION: It is convenient to have a pin cushion with an elastic strap that can be fastened to the wrist. Select a pin cushions made of wool or felt and filled with wool or hair.
- 32. Seam Ripper This is useful for ripping out machine stitches. It has a handle and a bent point which ca be inserted into the stitches and pulled to break them.
- 33. Orange-stick This is a long tool whose point can be inserted into the corners of collars, seams etc., so as to give a neat pointed appearance.
- 34. Sewing thread Select a good quality thread of reliable brand matching to fabric in colour, and size. While matching the color, buy thread that looks slightly darker than the fabric. Various types of threads like cotton, silk,and nylon threads are available in the market.
- 35. Cutting board or table A table at convenient height and size is a definite aid in cutting and constructing garment. 5x3 is a desirable size. Height can be about 2, 6.
- 37. Mirror A full length mirror is useful for checking whether the garment is well fitting in size and design. DRESS FORM: This is a padded form of body and may be made of wood, cardboard, plaster etc. This is useful for designing dresses by draping and also to check correct fitting.
- 38. DRESS FORM
- 39. PRESSING TOOLS IRONING BOARD: This should be of convenient height and should be padded. One may use an ordinary table covered with sheet and blanket for this purpose. IRON: Keep an automatic iron handy for pressing fabric before cutting during construction and after the garment is completed.
- 41. Sleeve Board This is useful for ironing small parts like sleeves of a garment. It has a tapered end on one side and a round end on the other side. This also should be padded.
- 42. PRESS CLOTH Fabrics used as press cloth should be color fast and should be washed or boiled to remove all sizing.