HAMS Field Trip 2
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Prep material for HAMS field trip #2 Colorado Mountain Club (CMC) High Altitude Mountaineering School (HAMS)
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HAMS Field Trip 2
- 1. Field Trip 2 Preparation HAMS
- 2. Agenda Climbing Snow Safely: Glacier Travel-why, crevasse negotiation and route finding. Running Belay-when, why, how. Fixed Belay-when, why, how. Fixed Lines-when, why, how. Sled set up and travel. Stove types, advantages and disadvantages. Discuss St. Marys snow day Saturday Labs: Passing protection safely while running belay. Ascending a fixed line safely. Groups: Z-haul practice
- 3. Safely Climbing Snow Route finding on a glacier: Alpine start, boot pack, perpendicular to the crevasses, depressions in the snow, new snow?, probe, wand, GPS, turn around time, snow softening. Negotiating crevasses-walk over, jump over, walk around, climb over, find another way, ladders.
- 4. Safely Climbing Snow: Boot Pack
- 5. Safely Climbing Snow: Jumping a Crevasse
- 6. Safely Climbing Snow When to Rope Up? Glacier travel Steep snow Weaker team members who may not be able to arrest Team feels they CAN arrest Considerations: Can the team arrest? Ice, steepness, hardness of snow. No-turn around, find another way, fixed belay, un-rope. Yes-running belay or rope travel.
- 7. Safely Climbing Snow: Running Belay Leader carries protection. Protection placed at rope length or less. If protection placed a rope length 1) leader places first piece 2) end calls out when he is close to protection 3) leader places another piece then the end cleans 4) middle person must pass protection without unclipping from the rope.
- 8. Safely Climbing Snow Running Belay 5) leader will set up anchor when down to the last piece of protection (picket and ice ax) and a) belay in the rest of the team or b) probe to set up a safe zone then (a). 6) the team regroups, passes off the protection to the leader or new leader, then repeats the process.
- 9. Climbing Snow Safely: Running Belay
- 10. Climbing Snow Safely: Running Belay Tips: Racking pro is a pain! Many ways to doall need practice! 4 runner around your shoulder and clip pro to this. Clip runner and biner that is connected to picket to the 3rd hole of the picket and then attach to a gear loop on your harness.
- 11. Safely Climbing Snow: Team Arrest
- 12. Safely Climb Snow: Clipping Through
- 13. Safely Climbing Snow: Clipping Through Lab
- 14. Safely Climbing Snow Fixed Belay: Protect steep sections with little chance to arrest. Much slower.
- 15. Climbing Snow Safely Fixed Lines: Used to protect steep sections that a large number of climbers will need to negotiate multiple times. Can be used to speed ascent and descent. Mechanical ascender or a prusik (other friction knot) can be use as well. More difficult with icy rope.
- 17. Climbing Snow Safely Ascending a fixed line: Connect PAS on fixed line with a biner. This is attached to your locking accessory biner. Connect ascender from locking primary biner to rope behind the PAS biner. Secure rope with a non locker. Teeth of the ascender are one way, if you fall it will catch you. It slides going uphill but you must partially unlock it going down.
- 18. Climbing Snow Safely Ascending a fixed line: when passing pro, unclip PAS biner first and secure to the rope above the pro. Then unclip the ascender and secure to the rope behind the PAS biner. Descending is the reverse process when passing pro: 1) move the ascender first and then the PAS biner. 2) Ensure that the ascender faces uphill. You must then feather the lever to allow it to slide down the rope! Constantly consider what would happen if you fell! Keep the PAS above the pro (or clip the top anchor), and keep the ascender pointed up the hill.
- 21. Fixed lines Ascender always points uphill Ascenders have feathering mode and full-release mode; use feathering mode to allow downhill travel; use full-release mode to remove the ascender from the rope. If you fall, let go of the release mechanism. Use your legs to climb, rather than hauling on the ascender (minimize weight on the anchor, especially on a crowded line) Use your PAS or ascender tether to keep you from falling far if you fall while moving the ascender (uphill move your PAS first; downhill move the ascender first). To pass a climber going the opposite direction, one climber (usually the uphill climber) moves around the other climber (essentially treating the downhill climber as a piece of pro). Use an arm-wrap to speed up ascending and descending when feasible (use of PAS is still recommended). Consider having only the leader (uphill) or trailer (downhill) use an ascender and the rest of the team using an arm- wrap. You can hold the rope with your back hand for more control. Must have sturdy clothes that can stand up to the friction.
- 22. Climbing Snow Safely: Ascending and Descending Fixed Lines Lab
- 23. Sled Set Up and Travel
- 24. Sled Set Up and Travel
- 25. Sled Hauling Tips Practice sled-haul outings are critical! Try different harness systems and attachment points Get hip flexors used to the heavy load! Comfortable harness (light, flat, well-fitting) is key (John had to use his summit mitts to pad his alpine bod harness on Denali) Harness trade-offs (rigid vs. non-rigid) Weight! Control on traversing slopes and downhill (and reliance on teammates to control sled from hammering you on downhills) Ease of access to sled, turning to communicate with team, etc. Assembly and shipping (minor consideration) Weight distribution Pack / Sled Flat terrain: 40/60 more weight in sled Steeper terrain: 60/40 more weight in pack Anchor your sled and pack when they are not attached to you
- 26. Stoves for Cold Weather-MSR XGK White Gas-great in cold weather! Gas not found worldwide. Can clog. Universal-burns most fuels (kerosene, gasoline, white gas, etc.). Worldwide use. Alternative fuels burn dirty and thus clogs more often. Good in cold weather. Canister-POOR in cold weather (except for inverted stoves or self heating). Hard to find fuel worldwide. Very convenient!
- 27. Stoves for Cold Weather-Whisperlight Universal
- 28. Stoves for Cold Weather- MSR Reactor/Jet Boil Helios
- 29. Stoves for Cold Weather-NOT!
- 30. Jet Boil 1.5 l Cooking Pot with heat exchanger
- 31. Snow Climbing Gear: Tried and True
- 32. St. Marys Glacier-2nd Snow Day Agenda Meet at 6:15 am CMC parking lot, leave at 6:30 am. Head to St. Marys parking lot, new drivers?, $4.00. Hike up to St. Marys Lake without roping up. Main Activities: 1. Glacier travel; protect against a pendulum fall 2. Belay practice while roped up 3. Fixed Line practice 4. Self-arrest practice
- 33. St. Marys Glacier-2nd Snow Day Agenda 5. Lunch time: Bring your stove and a small pot to melt water for a hot drink. We will be throwing them into the snow to simulate a painful occurrence! 6. Z-Pulley practice in winter conditions. Dress warm, you will be laying in snow! Remember liner gloves.