CMC HAMS Protecting a Snow Climb

Feb 13, 20151 like537 views

The document discusses different scenarios for using belay anchors while climbing mountains. It describes four scenarios involving climbs up Mount Rainier, including an ice chute with a beginner climber, a long hard snow slope with a risky runout, crossing a crevasse, and descending a steep couloir. The scenarios provide details on route, conditions, altitude, slope angles, team experience levels, and hazards to consider when determining if and how to set belay anchors for safety.

• Mt. Rainier, Kautz Glacier route
- summit day
- altitude 11,000’
- ice chute, 45 – 50 degrees, about 150’ feet
- team: 3 experienced ice climbers,
1 beginner
SCENARIO

SCENARIO
• Mt. Rainier, Liberty Ridge route
- summit day, ascending 3,000’
- 40 – 50 degree slope
- hard snow, good for cramponing, sketchy
for ice ax self belay/arrest, 3,000’ run out
onto glacier
- 3 experienced climbers

SCENARIO
• Mt. Rainier, Liberty Ridge route
- summit day, crossing bergschrund
- 15’ soft snow
- 45 degree hard snow runout

SCENARIO
• Grizzly Peak couloir climb: descent
- 1,100’ descent
- 70 degree, very hard snow at top,
steepness eases lower down
- no self arrest possible
- safe runout
- 2 experienced climbers

Winter camping requires proper clothing, shelter, sleeping systems, and cooking equipment to stay warm and comfortable. For clothing, it is important to wear layers and avoid getting wet. Tents provide good shelter from wind and snow, but snow caves and walls can also be used. Down or synthetic sleeping bags rated for cold temperatures, along with insulated sleeping pads, keep campers warm at night. Canister or liquid fuel stoves are suitable for melting snow and heating prepared foods during winter trips.

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CMC HAMS Protecting a Snow Climb

1. Using Belay Anchors

2. What are anchors for?

3. Anchoring gear and materials

4. When to use pro Types of pro

5. • Mt. Rainier, Kautz Glacier route - summit day - altitude 11,000’ - ice chute, 45 – 50 degrees, about 150’ feet - team: 3 experienced ice climbers, 1 beginner SCENARIO

7. SCENARIO • Mt. Rainier, Liberty Ridge route - summit day, ascending 3,000’ - 40 – 50 degree slope - hard snow, good for cramponing, sketchy for ice ax self belay/arrest, 3,000’ run out onto glacier - 3 experienced climbers

9. SCENARIO • Mt. Rainier, Liberty Ridge route - summit day, crossing bergschrund - 15’ soft snow - 45 degree hard snow runout

11. SCENARIO • Grizzly Peak couloir climb: descent - 1,100’ descent - 70 degree, very hard snow at top, steepness eases lower down - no self arrest possible - safe runout - 2 experienced climbers

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CMC HAMS Protecting a Snow Climb

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