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Riesling reimagined

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Jordan Cowe, CWE
Jordan Cowe, CWE

This document discusses the history and resurgence of Riesling grape varieties. It outlines how Riesling was once widely planted in Germany but fell out of favor, and how climate change and renewed interest have helped the variety regain popularity. It then highlights several major Old World and New World regions that are producing high quality Riesling wines today, including the Niagara Peninsula, Finger Lakes region, Washington State, and Eden and Clare Valleys in Australia.

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T H E N E W W O R L D O F R I E S L I N G R I E S L I N G R E - I M A G I N E D
H I S T O R Y One of oldest German grape varietals. First documents date to mid- 1400's. Related to Gouais Blanc and some unknown now missing ancestor. Likely originates in the Rheingau, however found over large expanses of territory.
H I S T O R Y Spread throughout Europe during Middle Ages. Spread to completely unrelated grapes through name hundreds of times. When the Germans started to lose interest in the the mid 1900's, Australia and California were busy planting it. Once producing some of the world's finest wines, it has fallen slightly.
W H A T D E F I N E S R I E S L I N G ? Terroir driven Versatile Moderately aromatic Fairly acidic Cold hardy Moderately easy to ripen Typically ageworthy Immensely food friendly
M A J O R O L D W O R L D R I E S L I N G S T H E C L A S S I C S
R H E I N G A U Natural and historic home of Riesling. Region seems most suited to properly ripen and produce dry Rieslings. Whether it be percentage of plantings, number of Erste Lage sites, the great wines of the 19th century or driving dry Riesling today, Rheingau screams Riesling.
M O S E L In today's mind the Mosel has become home to Riesling. Cooler and with less natural gifts than the Rheingau Mosel has worked hard to produce fine wines. Only the best sites are capable of producing truly great Riesling but their quality cannot be forgotten. Much lighter than in Rheingau and a much larger propensity for sweetness to offset the acidity.
A L S A C E The awkward step-child of French wine. Moderate, dry continental climate in Alsace has a tendency toward bigger, fuller Rieslings than either the Mosel or Rheingau. Officially dry aside from VT and SGN wines. Plantings have grown significantly since mid 1900s
W H A T H A P P E N E D ?
R I E S L I N G D I E D Germans started planting inferior, easier to ripen varieties. Everyone, everywhere was growing "Riesling" and badly. Sweetness was used to hide imperfections. Both German wines and Riesling came to be associated with Cheap, Sweet, Headache inducing plonk. The new world was finding its footing and trying new varietals. Chardonnay took off like wildfire. A C T U A L L Y R I E S L I N G K I L L E D I T S E L F
W H A T C H A N G E D ? R I E S L I N G G O T H E L P
C L I M A T E S Climate change in Europe has made ripening Riesling easier in traditional regions. Most new world Riesling regions are warmer but more continental allowing easier ripening. Easier ripening means fuller less acidic wines that work better dry.
S T Y L E Riesling can undoubtedly produce elegant off-dry and sweet wines but the change to dryer wines has helped significantly. While this change has been slow to enter consumer minds it has been embraced heavily by many new world regions.
P E T R O L The distinct petrol aroma has become less desirable over time. Some even go as far as to call it a fault. This petrol aroma is one of the several items that often put new drinkers off of Riesling. Using research to isolate the cause (TDN) and subsequently prevent its formation purer fruit has flourished.
R E N E W E D I N T E R E S T Riesling stayed out of the limelight for the great over oaked vs. flavourless war. Riesling is the natural, versatile middle ground that can fill many niches. This has seen interest with many somms and so called "Acid freaks". Also events such a Summer or Riesling among others have helped promote the grape.
W H O ' S M A K I N G R I E S L I N G G R E A T A G A I N ?
N I A G A R A P E N I N S U L A Close second to Chardonnay as dominant white grape varietal. Diverse microclimates producing many styles. Main Plantings in the cooler sub- appellations. Two major styles divide into steely, fuller bodied, dry Alsatian inspired examples and delicate, floral, lighter Mosel inspired examples. Unique Bar Lime style candied citrus fairly common. Hot years can show significant petrol notes.
W A S H I N G T O N S T A T E One of the driest major Riesling producing regions. Mostly located in Columbia valley. Second in Plantings to Chardonnay. Range of microclimates lead to wide range of styles with Drier styles being dominant. Preference for acidic, aromatic, food friendly styles.
E D E N A N D C L A R E V A L L E Y S Riesling dominates plantings in both regions. Both GIs North of Adelaide in South Australia. Eden Valley significantly cooler on Average than Clare valley. Both regions fairly significant for big reds from Shiraz and Cab Sauv. Unlikely homes for Riesling based on numbers alone. Riesling best suited to high altitude sites. Known for being Intense, Dry and Fresh, if not the epitome of Bone Dry.
T H E F I N G E R L A K E S About 3 hours south east of Niagara in New York. Much cooler growing season. Most heavily German inspired of the New World regions. Large tendency towards off dry styles due to high natural acidity. Each lake shows its own distinct character. Most famous producers such as Constantine Frank and Hermann J. Wiemer based around Keuka and Seneca lakes.
R E G I O N A L C O M P A R I S O N L A T I T U D E G D D ( * C ) P R E C I P I T A T I O N ( M M ) M O S E L 4 9 * N 1 0 3 0 7 0 0 R H E I N G A U 4 9 * N 1 1 0 0 5 5 0 A L S A C E 4 8 * N 1 2 9 0 5 0 0 N I A G A R A 4 3 * N 1 5 0 0 8 8 0 F I N G E R L A K E S 4 3 * N 1 3 5 0 8 6 0 W A S H I N G T O N 4 6 * N 1 7 5 0 1 0 4 E D E N V A L L E Y 3 3 * S 1 3 9 0 2 8 0 C L A R E V A L L E Y 3 4 * S 1 7 7 0 2 0 0
W H A T M A K E S T H E S E R E G I O N S S P E C I A L ?

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Riesling reimagined

  • 1. T H E N E W W O R L D O F R I E S L I N G R I E S L I N G R E - I M A G I N E D
  • 2. H I S T O R Y One of oldest German grape varietals. First documents date to mid- 1400's. Related to Gouais Blanc and some unknown now missing ancestor. Likely originates in the Rheingau, however found over large expanses of territory.
  • 3. H I S T O R Y Spread throughout Europe during Middle Ages. Spread to completely unrelated grapes through name hundreds of times. When the Germans started to lose interest in the the mid 1900's, Australia and California were busy planting it. Once producing some of the world's finest wines, it has fallen slightly.
  • 4. W H A T D E F I N E S R I E S L I N G ? Terroir driven Versatile Moderately aromatic Fairly acidic Cold hardy Moderately easy to ripen Typically ageworthy Immensely food friendly
  • 5. M A J O R O L D W O R L D R I E S L I N G S T H E C L A S S I C S
  • 6. R H E I N G A U Natural and historic home of Riesling. Region seems most suited to properly ripen and produce dry Rieslings. Whether it be percentage of plantings, number of Erste Lage sites, the great wines of the 19th century or driving dry Riesling today, Rheingau screams Riesling.
  • 7. M O S E L In today's mind the Mosel has become home to Riesling. Cooler and with less natural gifts than the Rheingau Mosel has worked hard to produce fine wines. Only the best sites are capable of producing truly great Riesling but their quality cannot be forgotten. Much lighter than in Rheingau and a much larger propensity for sweetness to offset the acidity.
  • 8. A L S A C E The awkward step-child of French wine. Moderate, dry continental climate in Alsace has a tendency toward bigger, fuller Rieslings than either the Mosel or Rheingau. Officially dry aside from VT and SGN wines. Plantings have grown significantly since mid 1900s
  • 9. W H A T H A P P E N E D ?
  • 10. R I E S L I N G D I E D Germans started planting inferior, easier to ripen varieties. Everyone, everywhere was growing "Riesling" and badly. Sweetness was used to hide imperfections. Both German wines and Riesling came to be associated with Cheap, Sweet, Headache inducing plonk. The new world was finding its footing and trying new varietals. Chardonnay took off like wildfire. A C T U A L L Y R I E S L I N G K I L L E D I T S E L F
  • 11. W H A T C H A N G E D ? R I E S L I N G G O T H E L P
  • 12. C L I M A T E S Climate change in Europe has made ripening Riesling easier in traditional regions. Most new world Riesling regions are warmer but more continental allowing easier ripening. Easier ripening means fuller less acidic wines that work better dry.
  • 13. S T Y L E Riesling can undoubtedly produce elegant off-dry and sweet wines but the change to dryer wines has helped significantly. While this change has been slow to enter consumer minds it has been embraced heavily by many new world regions.
  • 14. P E T R O L The distinct petrol aroma has become less desirable over time. Some even go as far as to call it a fault. This petrol aroma is one of the several items that often put new drinkers off of Riesling. Using research to isolate the cause (TDN) and subsequently prevent its formation purer fruit has flourished.
  • 15. R E N E W E D I N T E R E S T Riesling stayed out of the limelight for the great over oaked vs. flavourless war. Riesling is the natural, versatile middle ground that can fill many niches. This has seen interest with many somms and so called "Acid freaks". Also events such a Summer or Riesling among others have helped promote the grape.
  • 16. W H O ' S M A K I N G R I E S L I N G G R E A T A G A I N ?
  • 17. N I A G A R A P E N I N S U L A Close second to Chardonnay as dominant white grape varietal. Diverse microclimates producing many styles. Main Plantings in the cooler sub- appellations. Two major styles divide into steely, fuller bodied, dry Alsatian inspired examples and delicate, floral, lighter Mosel inspired examples. Unique Bar Lime style candied citrus fairly common. Hot years can show significant petrol notes.
  • 18. W A S H I N G T O N S T A T E One of the driest major Riesling producing regions. Mostly located in Columbia valley. Second in Plantings to Chardonnay. Range of microclimates lead to wide range of styles with Drier styles being dominant. Preference for acidic, aromatic, food friendly styles.
  • 19. E D E N A N D C L A R E V A L L E Y S Riesling dominates plantings in both regions. Both GIs North of Adelaide in South Australia. Eden Valley significantly cooler on Average than Clare valley. Both regions fairly significant for big reds from Shiraz and Cab Sauv. Unlikely homes for Riesling based on numbers alone. Riesling best suited to high altitude sites. Known for being Intense, Dry and Fresh, if not the epitome of Bone Dry.
  • 20. T H E F I N G E R L A K E S About 3 hours south east of Niagara in New York. Much cooler growing season. Most heavily German inspired of the New World regions. Large tendency towards off dry styles due to high natural acidity. Each lake shows its own distinct character. Most famous producers such as Constantine Frank and Hermann J. Wiemer based around Keuka and Seneca lakes.
  • 21. R E G I O N A L C O M P A R I S O N L A T I T U D E G D D ( * C ) P R E C I P I T A T I O N ( M M ) M O S E L 4 9 * N 1 0 3 0 7 0 0 R H E I N G A U 4 9 * N 1 1 0 0 5 5 0 A L S A C E 4 8 * N 1 2 9 0 5 0 0 N I A G A R A 4 3 * N 1 5 0 0 8 8 0 F I N G E R L A K E S 4 3 * N 1 3 5 0 8 6 0 W A S H I N G T O N 4 6 * N 1 7 5 0 1 0 4 E D E N V A L L E Y 3 3 * S 1 3 9 0 2 8 0 C L A R E V A L L E Y 3 4 * S 1 7 7 0 2 0 0
  • 22. W H A T M A K E S T H E S E R E G I O N S S P E C I A L ?