Sewing workflow
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This document discusses different types of garment production laboratories. Laboratories are typically smaller in size than factories, with production done in a more customized manner. Laboratories range from those that produce small series to those focused on single, custom garments. Some key features of laboratories include their emphasis on knowledge transfer between workers, their flexibility in production, and taking responsibility for complete garments. The document also examines issues around capturing the knowledge of skilled laborers, balancing social and business aspects, and innovating in the area of sewing.
Sewing workflow
- 1. T C B L E U P R O J E C T M A R I A A D E L E C I P O L L A E - Z A V O D Task 4.3: Laboratories
- 2. What is a laboratory? A laboratory is distinguished from a factory mainly by size and staff. Sometimes a laboratory is part of a bigger production chain. Some laboratories only adjust ready to wear garments. Other laboratories lack expertise in cutting, so they use e.g. Burda Patterns (http://www.burdastyle.com/). There are also highly specialized laboratories such as those for men's tailoring o wedding gowns. In laboratories, each garment is made entirely by one operator or is island assembled (i.e. one worker makes collars, one makes cuffs, another hems, and so on). Some laboratories work on demand one off, some sew garments cut elsewhere according to sizes. In some laboratories, workers move freely between various workstations, talking to each other. Compared to factories, there is greater accuracy in assembly and finishing in laboratories. Laboratories produce a limited number of items for each model. Laboratories have great flexibility, because models can be changed with little effort. In laboratories, workers take responsibility for their work and have the satisfaction of being able to complete part or all of the production cycle.
- 3. The heart of the laboratory: sewing Today in Europe, brand brochures, vocational school textbooks, business reports, trade-association research papers and so on, place much emphasis on the garment cutting phase, where one is now able to cut thousands of clothes at once. However, little attention is paid to the description of what happens in the sewing department. Sometimes the advice is simply to find a factory, in the sense of finding a subcontractor abroad. There are many important activities in laboratories that we will need to explore further including cutting but it can be argued that the key issue for TCBL is to re-examine the potential of the role of sewing. An illustration from Garment Construction Guide, Union Special Corporation, Technical Training centre, Huntly, Illinois (published during 1970, now difficult to find)
- 4. Innovation: everywhere except sewing Innovation in the clothing industry has mainly addressed pattern design, cutting, placement, ironing, embroidery, and quilting. Sewing has undergone little innovation since the invention of the sewing machine. Sewing is in fact highly knowledge intensive: the process is driven by the sewers touch and ability to make many micro-decisions on the spot. Sewing therefore represents a significant innovation opportunity for TCBL.
- 5. From laboratories to assembly line The labor-intensive role of sewing creates a cost threshold, with attempts to lower it with assembly line production (and, more recently, attempts at robotisation). But the specificity of garment production makes it difficult to reduce it to standard assembly. In the laboratories of the past, knowledge was exchanged by talking while sewing: how can we recover that knowledge heritage? Each step in the sewing process is rich with knowledge: the speed and noise of industrial sewing machines is ultimately destroying this value.
- 6. We need to identify flexible forms of production, somewhere between the assembly line and artisan ateliers. Sewing is like cooking: recipes for the same cake may differ, and people enjoy exchanging them. Still, there is a tendency to ask for step by step instructions, even though ultimately everyone adds their personal touch (if nothing else to avoid boredom). Sewing is ripe for promotion as a desirable activity (think of the impact of MasterChef on cooking). We may not all become tailors, but we would pay greater respect for fine garments. The social dimension of sewing
- 7. Survivors and emergent models Small sewing workshops in Europe are increasingly rare, though many survive. Some survive by making custom wedding gowns. Some still work for high fashion and pret a porter (fasonisti). The few skilled mens tailors have increasing difficulty in finding new apprentices. On the other hand, we are now seeing new types of workshops animated by the desire to make, learn, share experiences and be together. Some of these have a social dimension, aimed at vulnerable population groups. A sewing caf辿 and a sewing Hub in Italy
- 8. Summary of Laboratory features Let us now try to identify the main features of both old and new laboratories Mode of production Single: production of individual garments Series: small series using group techniques Mass production: highly organized and repetitive procedures Value added Knowledge: of fashion, fabrics, sewing Social: interaction among workers and with clients Cost: reduction of costs through the organisation of work
- 9. Typologies of Laboratories Type N. staff Organisation of production Value proposition Single Series Mass Knowl. Social Lowcost Mens tailor 1-3 10 0 0 7 3 0 Wedding gowns 2-10 10 0 0 6 3 1 Sewing lab (experimental)* 5-10 10 0 0 5 5 0 Shirt maker 2-4 7 3 0 5 2 3 Sewing caf辿 (hobby)* 5-20 10 0 0 4 6 0 Small laboratory 4-6 6 4 0 4 2 4 Home worker 1 4 4 2 4 2 4 Small factory (fasonista) 6-20 1 5 4 3 1 6 And synthesize for the main typologies identified: * Emergent model of laboratory
- 10. Open issues Emergent models emphasize social values: what about business? How to capture and transfer knowledge value of e.g. mens tailors? What benefits from increasing the social component of home working? 0% 10% 20% 30% 40% 50% 60% 70% 80% 90% 100% Value propositions Cost Social Knowl.