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Study on manual pattern making of a given T-shirt.
- 1. KHULNA UNIVERSITY OF ENGINEERING & TECHNOLOGY KUET SESSIONAL REPORT Course No- TE3230 Experiment No. 01 Name of the Experiment Study on manual pattern making of a given T-shirt. Remarks Date of Performance- 12-04-21 Date of Submission- 13-06-21 Name- Nazmul Hasan Anan Roll- 1721015 Session- 2019-20 Year- 3rd Semester- 2nd Group- A
- 2. Experiment No: 01 Name of the Experiment: Study on manual pattern making of a given T-shirt. 1. Introduction: All garments are drawn scientifically, usually on paper, and used to cut fabric by spreading it on fabric layers known as markers. The replica, shape, or template of a part of a garment is called the pattern. There are two ways of marker making 1. Manual marker making 2. Computer-aided marker making Manual marker making is a method where physical and mental labor is a must. We can do manual markers with full sizes patterns as well as with small sizes patterns. Usually, the patterns will plot on a pattern paper, which is one type of thick paper, and then the whole design is placed in this pattern paper. For establishing a better outlook of garments, proper patterning is a must. In Starting, we get the technical pack which contains the list of sizes. According to this site, we will make our pattern from the garments. If there are more sizes available for single clothes, we should select the middle size. We know that we also make a raff estimation of the product in the time of pattern making. If we design with the smallest one, there is little chance of this fabric order for this size. The scouring of this fabric becomes lower also. The same things also happened if we used the most significant size; here,
- 3. we get the excessive material, increasing garment making. So, we select the marginal size, ensuring the perfect combination of scouring and standard final garments production cost. But it also changed according to the order quantity of garments. The selection of the pattern between the largest one and the size of the middle is perfect. Lower risk is also maintained. Supposed if we get S M L XL size, it's safe to design with M but with L is the safest without any doubt. 2. Objectives: Able to produce a design on design paper. Able to know the general steps required for pattern making. Able to know which size pattern should create if there are lots of methods. Able to make a design that we can transfer to computer design employing digitizing. Able to get e idea of manual marker making and then make a grading from the base pattern. 3. Apparatus: 1. Pencil 2. Eraser 3. Pattern Board 4. T-Scale 5. Long Scale 6. Curve Scale 7. Scissor 8. Calculator
- 4. 4. Working Procedure: At first, take the measurement sheets from the technical pack and select a standard and efficient size for pattern making. In our size sheets, we get S, M, L, XL sizes. Among them, we chose the L size for our pattern making. Now we observed all the measurements of the garment L. We see the measure of 1/2 chest, 1/2 bottom, HPS, front width 1/2 armhole, shoulder to shoulder, shoulder slant, neck width straight, neck drop CB, neck drop CF, sleeve length, 1/2 armhole, 1/2 biceps, 1/2 bottom sleeve, back width 1/2 armhole. T-shirts are symmetric in design and mirror image. So we can quickly draw one side and unfold it to another for getting the complete design. We minimized the widthwise measurements to half for this folding and evolving, and then lengthwise measures remain unchanged. We should keep in mind that we consider the highest benchmarks for every portion of the garment. In this T-Shirt for L size, we see that the highest value lengthwise is HPS which is 43. So we consider these measurements for drawing and patterning in the pattern board. For our limitation, we used graph paper (Due to coronavirus pandemic, the physical lab is not possible, and that's why pattern board is unavailable). We get three measurements, 1/2 bottom, 1/2 chest, front width 1/2 armhole for the front. Among them, 1/2 bottom measurements are the biggest one, and we consider it for pattern making. Due to folding the paper, we use half of the measurements so, we used (33/2=16.5) 16.5 in the graph paper. The position of the neck and sleeve varies according to the fold line. Suppose we consider the left side, the channel set on the left
- 5. side, and the sleeve to the right side. If we alter the direction, the design will change the direction. For considering the neck measurements, we both think of the length and widthwise direction. .For widthwise consideration, we use the neck width straight. At the very beginning, we fold the paper, so here we should use the half-length of neck width straight, which is 15.5/2=7.75. The lengthwise direction we quickly get from neck drop CB and neck drop CF. From the top position of the graph on the Y axis, we plot the measurement of neck drop CB=2 and neck drop CF=7.5. For drawing the curve, we must use the curve scale. We can do it manually, but we should keep in mind that we should not change the neck's outlook. Supposed if it is round in shape, we should keep it around after design. If it is V-shaped, we should retain its original form as well as position. The measurements of shoulder to shoulder is 27 and, we get the neck width is 15.5. After subtraction we get value (27-15.5=11.5). For one shoulder, the line we were drawing from the top of the fold line, we cover the distance on the X-axis and determine the point. Now we draw a curve for the armhole. Before drafting an arc of the armhole, we should determine a point through which the curve passes. To find the end lengthwise, we add the (1/2 arm hole/2 +Shoulder Slant) (14/2+1.7=8.7) measurement from the top of the fold line in the Y-axis and draw a parallel line on the x-axis. We set up a point 11.5 on the X-axis in this similar line, which we get from front width 1/2 armhole /2 (23/2=11.5). Here we get 3 points. After joining them, we fully draw the armhole. Now entering the lower portion, we finalized the design of the patterna curve for the back 1/2 armhole also illustrated in the pattern paper.
- 6. Previously we made a pattern for the front and back part of a T-shirt; now, we will try to make a pattern for the sleeve. We take the length of the sleeve from the measurements sheet, which is 42. Now it is a time of confusion; there are too many widths; what should we choose? We know that we should take the largest measurement for any portion. Among 1/2 armhole, 1/2 biceps, 1/2 bottom sleeve, we see that the armhole is not the sleeve's parts. It is a portion where the sleeve joins by sewing. So we take the 1/2 bottom opening for pattern making. We plot the value of sleeve length measurement on the X-axis, which is 42, and 1/2 biceps on the Y-axis. Here we also use the folding method by which the alternate sleeve pattern can get quickly. After joining the line of the point, it is time to place the 1/2 bottom sleeve in the Y-axis on the right side of the line and the sleeve head on the top from left to right. We plot point 9.5 on the X-axis and 7.5 from bottom to top on Y-axis. After joining the line and unfolding the line, we get the entire pattern for the sleeve. 5. Result: According to the instruction, I plot those patterns in a graph paper, which is attached below- In graph paper, we consider one square box as one unit.
- 7. Figure1: Pattern for front and back portion of T-shirt.
- 8. Figure2: Pattern for sleeve of T-shirt 6. Precaution: All the measurement should take accurately and plot those on the graph paper For joining the arc, we should be careful The grain line should indicate on the form. During unfolding and duplicating the design, we draw it appropriately. During working, we should secure the piece from tearing or any hampered. 7. Conclusion: Pattern making is the basic knowledge for apparel production. We can quickly get an idea about the design and outlook of a garment by pattern making. In this experiment, we get an idea about manual pattern making and know-how and which method will
- 9. follow in pattern making. We can easily assume fabric and raw cost of production in the time of pattern making. Here we get an idea for pattern making, which will help us in the future for making a pattern of any apparel and also ensure our essential skill in the job section