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07 knitting basics
- 1. Lecture 7 (Knitting Introduction)
- 2. Knitting o Second most popular technique of fabric formation o Fabric formation by inter- looping of yarns o Straight continuous length of yarn is bent into loops and o those loops are interlooped for fabric formation o Continuous length of yarn is converted vertically into intermeshed loop either by hand or machine 2
- 4. Knitting Status o Knitted fabrics o World Exports : US$ 33.6 billion o Pakistan exports: US$ 35.9 million o Pakistan Share: 0.11 % o Knitted apparel o World exports: US$ 237.7 billion o Pakistan exports: US$ 2.4 billion o Bangladesh exports: US$ 14.35 billion o Vietnam exports: US$ 9.5 billion o Pakistan Share: 1.01 % o China No. 1; Bangladesh No. 2; Vietnam No. 5; Pakistan No. 19 4
- 5. Knitting Status of Pakistan o 12,000 knitting machines o The main export destinations are o European, o American and o UAE markets. 5
- 6. Major Knitting Industry 6 Interloop Hosiery Masood Textiles Hasni Textiles Globe Textiles Three Star Hosiery Anwar Textiles Leisure Knitwear
- 7. Knitting Status (Imports & Exports) 7 • 2010-2011 to 2011-2012 Import of knitwear and embroidery machines Export of Knitwear (Hosiery) 14% 3%
- 8. Yarn Share 8 • 2010-2011 to 2011-2012 70 % Cotton 30 % Synthetic Knitwear
- 9. Knitting Major Exports Apparel 9 Major Exports Men's & ladies T- shirts Night shirts for ladies Men's pyjama Sportswear Jogging suit Boxer sets
- 12. Loop o Basic unit of knitted structure o Three Parts o A head (H) o 2 side limbs or legs (L). o A foot (F), at the base of each leg o Yarn passes through the head of the loop formed at the previous knitting cycle. 12
- 13. o Open loop o The open loop is one in which loop forming yarn does not cross at bottom of loop. o Closed loop o In closed loop, legs of loop cross so loop closing takes place 13 Loop Types
- 14. 14 Courses • A horizontal row of loops across the width of flat fabric • Series of loops, connected horizontally (Feet to Feet) • Courses per unit length is course density, • measured in cpi (course/inch) or cpcm(course/cm) Wales • A vertical column of loops along the length of fabric • Series of loops intermeshing vertically (Head to Head) • Wales per unit length is wale density, • measured in wpi(wales/inch) or wpcm(wales/cm)
- 15. o Face loop o In face loop legs of new loop pass over the head of old loop o (Legs are appeared) 15 New Loop Old Loop New Loop Old Loop o Back loop o In back loop head of old loop pass over the legs of new loop o (Head and Feet are appeared) Loop Types
- 16. 16 Technical Face • The side of the knitted fabric consist of Face Knit Loops Technical Back • The side of knitted fabric consist of Back Knit Loops
- 17. o Technical Upright o A knitted fabric is technically upright when its courses run horizontally and its wales run vertically, o with the heads of the needle loops facing towards the top of the fabric o and the course knitted first situated at the bottom of the fabric. Welt Secure edge of knitted fabric or garment made during/after knitting process 17
- 18. o Stitch length o length of the yarn in the knitted loop. o measured in millimetre o control properties of knitted fabrics o generally longer the stitch length, the more open and lighter the fabric. o Stitch density o Total number of loops in a given area. o Is the product of Courses and Wales per unit length o measured in units of loops per square centimetre or loops per square inch. o CPC x WPC = Loops/Sq. cm o CPI x WPI = Loops/Sq. in 18
- 19. Knitting o First hand knitting machine was developed in 5th century. o Actual Knitting machine was made in 1589 by Willian Lee. Needle o Instrument used for intermeshing of loops Gauge o Number of needles per unit length of knitting machine is called gauge 19
- 20. CLASSIFICATION On the basis of direction of movement of yarn w.r.t to the direction of fabric formation 20
- 21. 21 Knitted Fabrics Weft Knitted Single jersy Double jersy Purl Rib Interlock Warp Knitted Tricot Milanese Simplex Raschel Ketten Raschel Corchet Weft Insertion warp
- 22. Weft Knitting o Method of constructing the knitted fabric where loops made from each yarn run along the width or crosswise direction (courses) with reference to the direction of fabric formation during knitting, then the process of knitting is called weft knitting 22 Fabric Formation Yarn run in width
- 23. Weft knitting machine o Flat ( gloves and fully fashioned machine ) o Circular ( socks , single and double jersey machine) 23 Circular Knitting m/c Flat Knitting m/c
- 24. Weft knitting machine 24 Socks m/c Gloves m/c
- 25. Warp Knitting o Method of constructing the knitted fabric where loops made from each yarn run along the length of fabric (wales), i.e. the direction of fabric formation during knitting, the process is called warp knitting. o Types are o Tricot o Raschel o etc 25 Fabric Formation Yarn run in length
- 27. Flow process o Weft knitting o Warp Knitting 27 Weft knitting m/c Yarn / Cone Package Warp knitting m/c Warping / Beam formation Yarn / Cone Package
- 29. 29 Weaving Knitting Produced by interlacement of yarn Produce by interlooping of yarn Minimum Two Sets of yarn is required for warp and weft Minimum one yarn is required Sizing is required Don't require sizing Production is lower Production is higher Production cost is higher Production cost is less Elasticity and stretch ability is poor Good elasticity and stretch ability Dimensional stability is higher Dimensional stability is lower Thick and wind resistant Cool and breathable Holds a crease well Wrinkle resistant More durability Less durability Harsher Softer less moisture absorption More moisture absorption Less air permeability More air permeability Lengthy processing route(singeing, desizing, scouring , bleaching) Less Shrinkage, Ironing is required Short processing route( scouring, bleaching) More Shrinkage, Not necessary
- 30. Comparison of Warp and Weft Knitting Weft Knitting Warp Knitting Plain, Rib, Interlock and Purl Tricot, Milanese, Raschel, Simplex, Ketten Rascehl, Crochet, Weft insertion Latch and Bearded Needle Compound and Bearded needle Loops are produced along the width of fabric Loops are produced along the length of fabric Less dimensionally stable More dimensionally stable Less speed More speed Less wrinkle and shrinkage resistance Mores wrinkle and shrinkage resistance Less strength and abrasion resistance More strength and abrasion resistance Not necessary Each needle has its own thread May ravel from end and easily snagged Do not ravel and less snagging (Tearing) Sweaters, T Shits, Socks, Trousers, sports wear, Cuffs, Collars, Waistbands Curtains, Table Covers, Sleep Wears, Lingerie, Geo Textiles, Blouses, Carpets, Bandages 30
- 31. Warp Knitting 31 • Tricot • Raschel • Milanese • Simplex • Ketten Raschel • Crochet Weft Insersion
- 32. Warp Knitting Tricot Raschel Compound and Bearded Needle Compound and Latch needle Warps beams are arranged behind or above the machine Warps beams are arranged above the machine Operation can be made from front side of machine Operation can be made from front and back side of machine Finer gauge machines (7.08-15.74 N/cm) Coarser gauge machine (2.36-12.6 N/cm) Tricot machine use Sinker bar Raschel machine use trick plate Angle between yarn and fabric take up is 90 degree Angle between yarn and fabric take up is uo to 180 degree Higher in speed 2800 rpm Lower in speed 1600 rpm Continuous filament yarn is used Mostly staple yarn is used Soft, wrinkle resistant, good drapability Less soft and wrinkle resistant Machine width (201-533 cm) Machine width (191-584 cm) One needle bar or two needle bar Shirts, Sleep wear, Lounge wear One needle bar or two needle bar Veils, Laces, Nets, Carpets 32
- 34. Properties o Knitted Fabric are popular for their o Shape fitting property, o Soft handle, o Bulkier nature and o High extension at low tension. 34
- 35. 35 Clothing’s • Vests , Sweaters and pullover Cardigan (we) • Gloves(we), Socks(we), Tights(wa,we) • Seamless garments (wa, we) • Undergarments (Wa,we) Home and furnishing • Curtain(wa) • Uphostery (we) • Blanket(we) • Terry towel (wa,we) Technical Medical(stocking, compression bandages) (wa,we) Automotive(seat upholstery, roofing, filtration, composites)(wa,we) Packaging and mosquito nets, filtration (wa,we)
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